400rwtq daily driver. possible? how ? being reliable
#21
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If you want to drive around 2K rpm, or anywhere like stock, I'd recommend a super or turbo charged setup.
My old LE2/CC306 setup wouldn't operate under 1800 rpm, and driving around town I was spinning 2600 rpm just keeping up with other cars in traffic. Although in 4th, with the converter locked up it did cruise nicely around 2100 rpm.
My old LE2/CC306 setup wouldn't operate under 1800 rpm, and driving around town I was spinning 2600 rpm just keeping up with other cars in traffic. Although in 4th, with the converter locked up it did cruise nicely around 2100 rpm.
#22
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[QUOTE=RamAir95TA;13650938
My combo puts down exactly what you're looking for. Here's my spending break-down:
Forged short-block (including 4-bolt main block found online, forged rods, pistons, crank, assembly, machining, bearings, etc.) - $3800.
Ported Advanced Induction 200cc heads/cam/intake manifold - $2500.
Rockers, pushrods, lifters, timing chain - $550.
Exhaust (LPP headers) - $500.
Required bolt-ons (42# injectors, electric water pump, coil, plug wires, plugs, throttle body, etc.) - $1000.
Mail-order/dyno tune - $400.
).[/QUOTE]
BUILD A COPY OF THIS MOTOR.....you will be very happy when things are all said and done. AI also offers shortblocks and rebuild kits for 355/383's. Check out their site. Prepare to part with half your bank account, maybe more...
My combo puts down exactly what you're looking for. Here's my spending break-down:
Forged short-block (including 4-bolt main block found online, forged rods, pistons, crank, assembly, machining, bearings, etc.) - $3800.
Ported Advanced Induction 200cc heads/cam/intake manifold - $2500.
Rockers, pushrods, lifters, timing chain - $550.
Exhaust (LPP headers) - $500.
Required bolt-ons (42# injectors, electric water pump, coil, plug wires, plugs, throttle body, etc.) - $1000.
Mail-order/dyno tune - $400.
).[/QUOTE]
BUILD A COPY OF THIS MOTOR.....you will be very happy when things are all said and done. AI also offers shortblocks and rebuild kits for 355/383's. Check out their site. Prepare to part with half your bank account, maybe more...
#23
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If you think a 355 H/C/I is not streetable then you built yours wrong!
I have a 357 H/C/I puttign down 401 RWHP and 373 RWTQ at my last dyno session, and that was before my new intake and before a little tweaking on my tune and I DD mine ALL OVER TOWN!
Here is a breakdown of my build:
350 LT1 bored .040 (357)
Oversized Stock Replacment Pistons
Stock Replacement Crank/Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
LE2 Heads
Patriot Extreme Race Dual Springs .660 Lift
Comp Cams Ultra Pro-Mag 1.6 NSA Roller Rockers
Trick Flow Chromemoly Pushrods
Corvette LS7 Lifters
Comp Cams Custom Grind Baby Cam
(220/226, .570/.565, 110 LSA) Now you all get my specs haha
March Underdrive Crank Pulley
Ported Intake Manifold
58mm Professional Products Throttle Body
LS1 SLP Air Lid, Air Box, and K&N Filter
Ford SVO 30# Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
LPP Stainless Steel Long Tube Headers (1 3/4 Stepped to 1 7/8)
LPP 3" Off Road Y-Pipe
SLP Loudmouth 1 Resonator dumped before axle
Partsladi Delphi Opti
MSD Cap/Rotor
MSD 6AL Ignition Control
MSD 8.5mm Superconductor Spark Plug Wires routed over the valve covers
CSR Electric Water Pump
Spec Stage 4 Clutch
Built T56 Tranny
working on the new rear end.
All in all I spent over 7K for my build including labor. Will be just over 8K after I finish the rear end.
My car is VERY streetable and has no issues on the road, even when its raining. I run Goodyear Eagle Street Tires, not some sticky Nittos, and I can break em loose when I want, and I can make it take off when I want. It all depends on what you want to get out of it and how much you want to spend.
Dont short change it though, I learned that. If your going to do it, do it right!
I have a 357 H/C/I puttign down 401 RWHP and 373 RWTQ at my last dyno session, and that was before my new intake and before a little tweaking on my tune and I DD mine ALL OVER TOWN!
Here is a breakdown of my build:
350 LT1 bored .040 (357)
Oversized Stock Replacment Pistons
Stock Replacement Crank/Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
LE2 Heads
Patriot Extreme Race Dual Springs .660 Lift
Comp Cams Ultra Pro-Mag 1.6 NSA Roller Rockers
Trick Flow Chromemoly Pushrods
Corvette LS7 Lifters
Comp Cams Custom Grind Baby Cam
(220/226, .570/.565, 110 LSA) Now you all get my specs haha
March Underdrive Crank Pulley
Ported Intake Manifold
58mm Professional Products Throttle Body
LS1 SLP Air Lid, Air Box, and K&N Filter
Ford SVO 30# Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
LPP Stainless Steel Long Tube Headers (1 3/4 Stepped to 1 7/8)
LPP 3" Off Road Y-Pipe
SLP Loudmouth 1 Resonator dumped before axle
Partsladi Delphi Opti
MSD Cap/Rotor
MSD 6AL Ignition Control
MSD 8.5mm Superconductor Spark Plug Wires routed over the valve covers
CSR Electric Water Pump
Spec Stage 4 Clutch
Built T56 Tranny
working on the new rear end.
All in all I spent over 7K for my build including labor. Will be just over 8K after I finish the rear end.
My car is VERY streetable and has no issues on the road, even when its raining. I run Goodyear Eagle Street Tires, not some sticky Nittos, and I can break em loose when I want, and I can make it take off when I want. It all depends on what you want to get out of it and how much you want to spend.
Dont short change it though, I learned that. If your going to do it, do it right!
#24
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Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I switched over to an OBD1 setup as well. The 97 OBD2 crap was pissing me off so I changed my knock sensor to a 94 sensor, and got a PCM from a 94 LT1 M6, and tuned that. Worked GREAT!
#30
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This is what you should do.
I have a 388 with ported Darts and intake, it costs more than I really wanted to spend but its been together for over a year and has done a few 12+ hour trips. It easily put down 400+ on both rwhp and tq with a tame tune(stingy dyno, but I don't care about the numbers cause we were just going after the right fuel tables). Its a healthy cam for the street 230/240 .560+. I drive it whenever it isn't raining it doesn't get the best gas mileage but it has plenty of power for street tires.
My combo puts down exactly what you're looking for. Here's my spending break-down:
Forged short-block (including 4-bolt main block found online, forged rods, pistons, crank, assembly, machining, bearings, etc.) - $3800.
Ported Advanced Induction 200cc heads/cam/intake manifold - $2500.
Rockers, pushrods, lifters, timing chain - $550.
Exhaust (LPP headers) - $500.
Required bolt-ons (42# injectors, electric water pump, coil, plug wires, plugs, throttle body, etc.) - $1000.
Mail-order/dyno tune - $400.
Keep in mind, that's just for the motor. You'll need a trans, rear, gear, and suspension to handle the power. That HP is no good if you can't get it to the ground.
Forged short-block (including 4-bolt main block found online, forged rods, pistons, crank, assembly, machining, bearings, etc.) - $3800.
Ported Advanced Induction 200cc heads/cam/intake manifold - $2500.
Rockers, pushrods, lifters, timing chain - $550.
Exhaust (LPP headers) - $500.
Required bolt-ons (42# injectors, electric water pump, coil, plug wires, plugs, throttle body, etc.) - $1000.
Mail-order/dyno tune - $400.
Keep in mind, that's just for the motor. You'll need a trans, rear, gear, and suspension to handle the power. That HP is no good if you can't get it to the ground.
I have a 388 with ported Darts and intake, it costs more than I really wanted to spend but its been together for over a year and has done a few 12+ hour trips. It easily put down 400+ on both rwhp and tq with a tame tune(stingy dyno, but I don't care about the numbers cause we were just going after the right fuel tables). Its a healthy cam for the street 230/240 .560+. I drive it whenever it isn't raining it doesn't get the best gas mileage but it has plenty of power for street tires.
#32
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400 rwtq is EASY with a stroker. I did it with out of the box heads and an off the shelf cam. I have less than 2500 into my shortblock and 1500 in heads, add up all the other supporting mods and you could probably squeak by for around 6,000 to get the power you are looking for, as for getting that power to the ground effectively and reliably now that is a whole different story. There is a link to my build thread in my sig if you are interested