What is a reasonable asking price for my 383 project car?
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What is a reasonable asking price for my 383 project car?
So I am sad to be considering this but I have a feeling I need to sell my 383 that is back home in california, I just started school in Michigan and I didn't drive it out here since it has an oil pan leak that I didn't get a chance to fix.
Car runs great, idles fine, no smoke out of the exhaust. Runs strong for sure. I put maybe 150 miles on the new 383 build that I just did.
Car has the following parts. I figured I spent over 6k in parts alone and wondering if 7k is even reasonable to ask for this.
Lt4 intake manifold ported by Lloyd AIR and EGR deleted w/ block off plates on back of intake manifold.
Lt1 trickflow heads ported by Lloyd (complete with 1.6 comp cams roller rockers, installed new ARP head bolts)
.2 144/107
.3 193/144
.4 246/179
.5 278/201
.6 292/214
.650 293/218
Custom cam through Lloyd made by comp cams 236/248 110 lsa (cam degreeing checked out around 106-108
37 lb racetronix fuel injectors
Racetronix fuel pump w/ wire harness, new napa wix fuel filter
Obd1 pcm tuned by ion for this 383 build
383 Short block (scat rotating assembly forged crank, 6” forged rods, probe forged pistons, ARP main studs)
LS7 lifters and comp push rods
Lt4 timng chain
Milodon oil pan w/ new melling select oil pump
Meziere electric water pump wp118 (brand new 70 miles maybe on it)
Partsladi delteq distributor brand new (70 mies) with outside sealed with silicone and inner screws with loctite. One of the legs cracked so I put jb weld on it but it holds up just fine and mounted on the motor fine.
Brand new ngk tr55 spark plugs, brand new msd semi-conductor 8.5mm wires (70 miles)
Pacesetter LT’s (no smog hookups), ory y-pipe into one catco high flow cat and flowmaster muffler
Polyurethane motor mounts
PA racing k member
UMI adjustable torque arm
UMI torque arm relocation crossmember
Koni 4/3 shocks and struts w/ strano springs (70 miles on the suspension)
Ls1 brake upgrade (rotors, calipers)
200 amp alternator
Pretty new duralast battery
Upgraded front and rear sway bars
4.10’s w/ stock rear end
Eibach strut bar
Ls1 air lid setup w/ k&n filter and smooth bellow.
New brake booster and brake master cylinder
Ls1 front end conversion w/ mesh grill. And SS fiberglass hood (functional)
Full lip kit and spoiler.
Stock tail lights and also throwing in altezza carbon fiber tail lights.
Momo shift **** with BMR short shifter which was also cut down another inch.
CD player bracket is busted and needs to be replaced since my old sound system was stolen which is why I tried to do a 383.
LS1 aluminum driveshaft
As far as body work there are no major dents, small dent at rear driver side and few scratches dings here and there. Car is clean title. Needs paint work for sure since the car was keyed years ago and I never had it repainted. Some clear coat coming off on roof.
Interior is in pretty good condition, has new dash pad, doors panels are in good condition w/ leather and cloth. I took out the rear seats.
Car had a viper alarm installed which crapped out on me so the wiring is still under the dash. Horns for the alarm are under the hood as well.
A/C does not work but I have the blower motor which I think might fix the problem sitting in a box since I never got around to putting it in.
Throwing in msd 6AL ignition unit.
MSD coil
Lt4 knock module
Brand new ngk tr55 spark plugs with msd 8.5 semi conductor wires brand new
Car runs great, idles fine, no smoke out of the exhaust. Runs strong for sure. I put maybe 150 miles on the new 383 build that I just did.
Car has the following parts. I figured I spent over 6k in parts alone and wondering if 7k is even reasonable to ask for this.
Lt4 intake manifold ported by Lloyd AIR and EGR deleted w/ block off plates on back of intake manifold.
Lt1 trickflow heads ported by Lloyd (complete with 1.6 comp cams roller rockers, installed new ARP head bolts)
.2 144/107
.3 193/144
.4 246/179
.5 278/201
.6 292/214
.650 293/218
Custom cam through Lloyd made by comp cams 236/248 110 lsa (cam degreeing checked out around 106-108
37 lb racetronix fuel injectors
Racetronix fuel pump w/ wire harness, new napa wix fuel filter
Obd1 pcm tuned by ion for this 383 build
383 Short block (scat rotating assembly forged crank, 6” forged rods, probe forged pistons, ARP main studs)
LS7 lifters and comp push rods
Lt4 timng chain
Milodon oil pan w/ new melling select oil pump
Meziere electric water pump wp118 (brand new 70 miles maybe on it)
Partsladi delteq distributor brand new (70 mies) with outside sealed with silicone and inner screws with loctite. One of the legs cracked so I put jb weld on it but it holds up just fine and mounted on the motor fine.
Brand new ngk tr55 spark plugs, brand new msd semi-conductor 8.5mm wires (70 miles)
Pacesetter LT’s (no smog hookups), ory y-pipe into one catco high flow cat and flowmaster muffler
Polyurethane motor mounts
PA racing k member
UMI adjustable torque arm
UMI torque arm relocation crossmember
Koni 4/3 shocks and struts w/ strano springs (70 miles on the suspension)
Ls1 brake upgrade (rotors, calipers)
200 amp alternator
Pretty new duralast battery
Upgraded front and rear sway bars
4.10’s w/ stock rear end
Eibach strut bar
Ls1 air lid setup w/ k&n filter and smooth bellow.
New brake booster and brake master cylinder
Ls1 front end conversion w/ mesh grill. And SS fiberglass hood (functional)
Full lip kit and spoiler.
Stock tail lights and also throwing in altezza carbon fiber tail lights.
Momo shift **** with BMR short shifter which was also cut down another inch.
CD player bracket is busted and needs to be replaced since my old sound system was stolen which is why I tried to do a 383.
LS1 aluminum driveshaft
As far as body work there are no major dents, small dent at rear driver side and few scratches dings here and there. Car is clean title. Needs paint work for sure since the car was keyed years ago and I never had it repainted. Some clear coat coming off on roof.
Interior is in pretty good condition, has new dash pad, doors panels are in good condition w/ leather and cloth. I took out the rear seats.
Car had a viper alarm installed which crapped out on me so the wiring is still under the dash. Horns for the alarm are under the hood as well.
A/C does not work but I have the blower motor which I think might fix the problem sitting in a box since I never got around to putting it in.
Throwing in msd 6AL ignition unit.
MSD coil
Lt4 knock module
Brand new ngk tr55 spark plugs with msd 8.5 semi conductor wires brand new
#5
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SFL
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You would probably get more parting it out. You also have to understand, just because you paid like $1,200 for suspension, doesn't mean you'll get that back. You would be lucky to get HALF of it back. Same goes for the entire car and the work that is put into it. 6k in parts is nothing in comparison to what some of us guys have put into our cars. So wanting to get near the amount you put into the car is pretty unrealistic. Not bashing you or the car, just trying to help..
#7
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You would probably get more parting it out. You also have to understand, just because you paid like $1,200 for suspension, doesn't mean you'll get that back. You would be lucky to get HALF of it back. Same goes for the entire car and the work that is put into it. 6k in parts is nothing in comparison to what some of us guys have put into our cars. So wanting to get near the amount you put into the car is pretty unrealistic. Not bashing you or the car, just trying to help..
oh well. need to figure out what I am going to do with it.
As far as the suspension goes. I wouldn't sell it for half anyways, especially since most of the parts I have are pretty top end, pretty sure it wouldn't drop 50% if I were to take the parts out and sell them individually. Especially if most of them are going to come out looking pretty new and only have 150 miles on them. But i do understand what you are saying, definitely not trying to get back what I put into it, just something reasonable so I figured I would ask.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SFL
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah the 50% of what you put into it was more or less being referred to the entire car, not the suspension. Like stated in here, parting it out would be your best bet. Sucks you have to do it though.. Good luck
#10
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i'd agree with 4k because of the body, but you never know...there are some high school kids out there that would have their parents pay $6k for a fast car lol. My friend is 21 yrs old and was so eager to get a camaro, he went 3 hours out of town to buy it from a private dealership, he payed $5400 out the door w/ no warranty. 130k miles, clean paint job, but WAY overpriced for a super stock lt1 with that much mileage.
#12
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (42)
I would focus on what is more valuable to you, your time or an extra $1000 here or there. That will be an extremely tough sell in CA because it isn't smog legal.
Take $4000-$5000 and be done with it. No work or time.
Do you have the space to part it out? Time? Energy? Tools? Ability?
Take $4000-$5000 and be done with it. No work or time.
Do you have the space to part it out? Time? Energy? Tools? Ability?