Here's what im thinking for my winter build...
12-21-2010, 11:58 AM
#21
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I agree with nearly 100% of this.
Just like you not caring about dyno #s some guys don't care about track times.
Some guys don't care about either of them.
So running 12s with 500whp 400 or whatever isn't important to them.
What everybody is trying to tell you is that your build is overkill for your goal. That's not just criticism, that's true. The problem is a lot of these guys have zero tact and clearly don't get out much.
Just like you not caring about dyno #s some guys don't care about track times.
Some guys don't care about either of them.
So running 12s with 500whp 400 or whatever isn't important to them.
What everybody is trying to tell you is that your build is overkill for your goal. That's not just criticism, that's true. The problem is a lot of these guys have zero tact and clearly don't get out much.
12-21-2010, 12:09 PM
#23
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[QUOTE=LSWHO;14264144]What do you have done now to dyno 350whp?
And I may have missed it, but A4 or M6?[/QUOT
A4, i have 396 with stock intake, 195 trickflow head, healthy cam... the 350rwhp was without nitrous
And I may have missed it, but A4 or M6?[/QUOT
A4, i have 396 with stock intake, 195 trickflow head, healthy cam... the 350rwhp was without nitrous
12-21-2010, 12:29 PM
#24
This may seem like a silly question, but you have true duals WITH LTs? What about the rest of bolt ons? Your mod list isn't complete so it's hard to gauge what your equivalent would be on a "normal" dyno as it is. What are the cam specs and redline?
If you literally slapped on those heads and cam with true duals built off the stock manifolds (why in god's name?) then the 350 would be about where I'd guess you'd be... if not much higher than I'd expect.
With what you are trapping it sounds like you are where you should be at least in the mid range for your mods. So I'd guess the dyno is 30whp light compared to others.
In that case expect to dyno 13-15% lower on your dyno compared to what most will tell you you'll dyno.
So you'll need to shoot for a 500whp build in order to hit your desired #s on that dyno.
Or just ignore the dyno and use it for what it is. A tool. And concentrate on your track times like you said.
If you literally slapped on those heads and cam with true duals built off the stock manifolds (why in god's name?) then the 350 would be about where I'd guess you'd be... if not much higher than I'd expect.
With what you are trapping it sounds like you are where you should be at least in the mid range for your mods. So I'd guess the dyno is 30whp light compared to others.
In that case expect to dyno 13-15% lower on your dyno compared to what most will tell you you'll dyno.
So you'll need to shoot for a 500whp build in order to hit your desired #s on that dyno.
Or just ignore the dyno and use it for what it is. A tool. And concentrate on your track times like you said.
Last edited by LSWHO; 12-21-2010 at 12:39 PM.
12-21-2010, 12:55 PM
#25
So first you say dynos are tuning tools only, but then you set your goal at 450whp on the dyno YOU go to? 
Take a page out of your OWN book and set a realistic TRACK goal, not HP.
I'm not trying to be a dick, but your approach is ridiculous. Stop and think about it - on any other dynojet a heads/cam LS1 will EASILY be over 400hp, corrected or uncorrected, I don't care who you are. You've got a heads/cam 396 LT1 with spray and you're only putting down 350whp?! Should be more like 475whp+. You're talking about a dyno that obviously has some f'd up conversion or a retarded operator. If I were you, I'd find a different dyno.
IMO, practice what you preach. Dynos are tuning tools. Track results are the ONLY real results. Just seems like you're going about this the hard way...JMHO.
Take a page out of your OWN book and set a realistic TRACK goal, not HP.I'm not trying to be a dick, but your approach is ridiculous. Stop and think about it - on any other dynojet a heads/cam LS1 will EASILY be over 400hp, corrected or uncorrected, I don't care who you are. You've got a heads/cam 396 LT1 with spray and you're only putting down 350whp?! Should be more like 475whp+. You're talking about a dyno that obviously has some f'd up conversion or a retarded operator. If I were you, I'd find a different dyno.
IMO, practice what you preach. Dynos are tuning tools. Track results are the ONLY real results. Just seems like you're going about this the hard way...JMHO.
12-21-2010, 01:27 PM
#26
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So first you say dynos are tuning tools only, but then you set your goal at 450whp on the dyno YOU go to? Take a page out of your OWN book and set a realistic TRACK goal, not HP.
I'm not trying to be a dick, but your approach is ridiculous. Stop and think about it - on any other dynojet a heads/cam LS1 will EASILY be over 400hp, corrected or uncorrected, I don't care who you are. You've got a heads/cam 396 LT1 with spray and you're only putting down 350whp?! Should be more like 475whp+. You're talking about a dyno that obviously has some f'd up conversion or a retarded operator. If I were you, I'd find a different dyno.
IMO, practice what you preach. Dynos are tuning tools. Track results are the ONLY real results. Just seems like you're going about this the hard way...JMHO.
Take a page out of your OWN book and set a realistic TRACK goal, not HP.I'm not trying to be a dick, but your approach is ridiculous. Stop and think about it - on any other dynojet a heads/cam LS1 will EASILY be over 400hp, corrected or uncorrected, I don't care who you are. You've got a heads/cam 396 LT1 with spray and you're only putting down 350whp?! Should be more like 475whp+. You're talking about a dyno that obviously has some f'd up conversion or a retarded operator. If I were you, I'd find a different dyno.
IMO, practice what you preach. Dynos are tuning tools. Track results are the ONLY real results. Just seems like you're going about this the hard way...JMHO.
12-21-2010, 01:34 PM
#27
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This may seem like a silly question, but you have true duals WITH LTs? What about the rest of bolt ons? Your mod list isn't complete so it's hard to gauge what your equivalent would be on a "normal" dyno as it is. What are the cam specs and redline?
If you literally slapped on those heads and cam with true duals built off the stock manifolds (why in god's name?) then the 350 would be about where I'd guess you'd be... if not much higher than I'd expect.
With what you are trapping it sounds like you are where you should be at least in the mid range for your mods. So I'd guess the dyno is 30whp light compared to others.
In that case expect to dyno 13-15% lower on your dyno compared to what most will tell you you'll dyno.
So you'll need to shoot for a 500whp build in order to hit your desired #s on that dyno.
Or just ignore the dyno and use it for what it is. A tool. And concentrate on your track times like you said.
If you literally slapped on those heads and cam with true duals built off the stock manifolds (why in god's name?) then the 350 would be about where I'd guess you'd be... if not much higher than I'd expect.
With what you are trapping it sounds like you are where you should be at least in the mid range for your mods. So I'd guess the dyno is 30whp light compared to others.
In that case expect to dyno 13-15% lower on your dyno compared to what most will tell you you'll dyno.
So you'll need to shoot for a 500whp build in order to hit your desired #s on that dyno.
Or just ignore the dyno and use it for what it is. A tool. And concentrate on your track times like you said.
12-21-2010, 01:58 PM
#28
It was dynoed tuned at FLP by Dan Bills, one of the top shops in the country. And i dont give a **** about dyno numbers, thats why i shouldnt have even brought it up... but with the dyno numbers i can get an idea of how much power i picked up. It was dynoed N/A when it made 350rwhp, and my buddies heads cam LS dyned 350 rwhp also, he runs 11 flat on motor. the dyno we use is obvisely a little tighter than the ones your using... They dont loosen up their dyno to make big numbers to make themselfs look better... And like i said, whats the worst that can happen with my build? i go faster than i expected? I would be totally pissed if that happened
Forget the dyno numbers. Who cares what you pick up with the new round of mods? Take it to the track, do the mods, get it tuned, go run again. That's how smart people do it. All this "well I dynoed this and ran that and he ran this after dynoing only that" is just retarded.
Good luck anyway. You've obviously got everything under control.
EDIT: Wait...now you say you had a plug wire arcing off the header during the dyno run? ANY COMPETENT TUNER will tell you to fix that before you make any pulls.
12-21-2010, 02:39 PM
#29
So first you say dynos are tuning tools only, but then you set your goal at 450whp on the dyno YOU go to? Take a page out of your OWN book and set a realistic TRACK goal, not HP.
I'm not trying to be a dick, but your approach is ridiculous. Stop and think about it - on any other dynojet a heads/cam LS1 will EASILY be over 400hp, corrected or uncorrected, I don't care who you are. You've got a heads/cam 396 LT1 with spray and you're only putting down 350whp?! Should be more like 475whp+. You're talking about a dyno that obviously has some f'd up conversion or a retarded operator. If I were you, I'd find a different dyno.
IMO, practice what you preach. Dynos are tuning tools. Track results are the ONLY real results. Just seems like you're going about this the hard way...JMHO.
Take a page out of your OWN book and set a realistic TRACK goal, not HP.I'm not trying to be a dick, but your approach is ridiculous. Stop and think about it - on any other dynojet a heads/cam LS1 will EASILY be over 400hp, corrected or uncorrected, I don't care who you are. You've got a heads/cam 396 LT1 with spray and you're only putting down 350whp?! Should be more like 475whp+. You're talking about a dyno that obviously has some f'd up conversion or a retarded operator. If I were you, I'd find a different dyno.
IMO, practice what you preach. Dynos are tuning tools. Track results are the ONLY real results. Just seems like you're going about this the hard way...JMHO.
12-21-2010, 03:21 PM
#30
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i ran into this same issue joe.......my car rolled a whopping 460rwhp but at 3500lbs went 10.2x's at over 132mph......doesnt seem right does it??? (ask the kid i ran with a 530rwhp cobra that i put buslengths on) the guy insisted his dyno was correct untill his jaw dropped when i trapped 133 the day after i left his place lol.....dyno #'s dont mean ****.......and i mean jack ****.....i hate to put it vulgar but people really need to get off the dyno dick.......its horrifying lol.........a dyno is a good tool to get a basic tune in the car.....the place to perfect the tune is the track....i dont have to tell u this u know.....
12-21-2010, 03:27 PM
#31
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Who are you to accuse me of "loosening up my dyno" to inflate my numbers? My numbers are what they are because I had a plan and used proven methods and a kick-*** tuner. You're just blindly picking a bunch of parts and hoping for the best.
Forget the dyno numbers. Who cares what you pick up with the new round of mods? Take it to the track, do the mods, get it tuned, go run again. That's how smart people do it. All this "well I dynoed this and ran that and he ran this after dynoing only that" is just retarded.
Good luck anyway. You've obviously got everything under control.
EDIT: Wait...now you say you had a plug wire arcing off the header during the dyno run? ANY COMPETENT TUNER will tell you to fix that before you make any pulls.
Forget the dyno numbers. Who cares what you pick up with the new round of mods? Take it to the track, do the mods, get it tuned, go run again. That's how smart people do it. All this "well I dynoed this and ran that and he ran this after dynoing only that" is just retarded.
Good luck anyway. You've obviously got everything under control.
EDIT: Wait...now you say you had a plug wire arcing off the header during the dyno run? ANY COMPETENT TUNER will tell you to fix that before you make any pulls.
12-21-2010, 05:37 PM
#36
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Well i have 6'' rods with Srp pistons, SRP only recomends a 100 shot. The pistons are also flat tops with a slight dish cut in them of about .030 so they arnt very thick, ive put a 125 shot to them and they held. But im going to have diamond make me some custom ones that have a thicker top.
12-21-2010, 05:40 PM
#37
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Ive been finding the parts im looking for, for really decent prices, so im going to go through with what i have planned. I would be happy with high 9's but if i go faster that would be great.
12-21-2010, 07:39 PM
#38
15-20K? where do come up with that kind of number? not even close to what i will be spending, My dad own a machine shop so ive got the hook up. Even if my dad didnt own a machine shop it would still be around 10K. And what does your car run at the track with that so called 450rwhp? Mine runs 10.9s with 350 rwhp and a 100 shot, its also full weight on 17'' wheels...
I don't track the F-Body, it wouldn't pass tech.
12-21-2010, 09:45 PM
#39
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Have you ever fully built an F-Body? I'm talking about the entire drivetrain and suspension. I would add up just what you have listed for your parts that you have bought or going to buy, plus all the stuff you haven't listed and get you well over 10K, but judging by your hostile responses you don't want actual advice.
I don't track the F-Body, it wouldn't pass tech.
I don't track the F-Body, it wouldn't pass tech.