Thoughts On New 383 Combination
12-07-2010, 04:21 PM
#1
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Thoughts On New 383 Combination Hello all,
I haven't posted here much but that might change now that I am finally getting my car back together. Posted below is the new combo thats just been built. The motor is finished and in the car. The last steps are having the NOS added and for it to be tuned. Just wanted to get a feel for what you all think.
93 2 bolt LT1 block converted to 4 bolt billet steel caps
Callies Compstar 3.750 crank
Oliver 6 inch rods
JE Pistons.....I think compression is 10.5
Fully ported 074 heads, stock valves
CC502 cam
CC 1.6 Magnum roller tip rockers
LT1 intake thats been ported
30lb injectors
Racetronix Walboro 255 kit and wiring harness
MSD Optispark
Kooks longtube headers 1 3/4"
Kooks catted 'Y' pipe
Mufflex 3.5" exhaust
700r4 trans built by Del Trans
PTC Converter, 3000 stall (approx)
3.73 gears
150 Nitrous shot
This is a street car that needs to get through a sniffer test at idle and 2500 rpm. It will see occasional track use. The better it runs the more it will see the track.
I'd really like to see an 11 second slip on motor and 10's on juice. I have a few ideas on things I might change down the road, but this is what I have for now.
Thanks in advance!
I haven't posted here much but that might change now that I am finally getting my car back together. Posted below is the new combo thats just been built. The motor is finished and in the car. The last steps are having the NOS added and for it to be tuned. Just wanted to get a feel for what you all think.
93 2 bolt LT1 block converted to 4 bolt billet steel caps
Callies Compstar 3.750 crank
Oliver 6 inch rods
JE Pistons.....I think compression is 10.5
Fully ported 074 heads, stock valves
CC502 cam
CC 1.6 Magnum roller tip rockers
LT1 intake thats been ported
30lb injectors
Racetronix Walboro 255 kit and wiring harness
MSD Optispark
Kooks longtube headers 1 3/4"
Kooks catted 'Y' pipe
Mufflex 3.5" exhaust
700r4 trans built by Del Trans
PTC Converter, 3000 stall (approx)
3.73 gears
150 Nitrous shot
This is a street car that needs to get through a sniffer test at idle and 2500 rpm. It will see occasional track use. The better it runs the more it will see the track.
I'd really like to see an 11 second slip on motor and 10's on juice. I have a few ideas on things I might change down the road, but this is what I have for now.Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Rumblin70ss; 12-07-2010 at 04:51 PM.
12-07-2010, 04:49 PM
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Thanks for the compliment and response.....thats what I was kind of thinking!
Last edited by Rumblin70ss; 12-07-2010 at 04:56 PM.
12-07-2010, 04:52 PM
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Wow I guess I didn't realize it took that kind of power to be in the 10's! Has your car been to the track yet?
12-07-2010, 05:36 PM
#6
IMO, you're going to be hard-pressed to break into the 11s easily. Not saying it can't be done, but alot of choices made on your build aren't helping your cause. I can respect the need to pass emissions though, so that will be your achilles heel as you can only make so much usable power. Stroker motors need lots of lift and duration and the 502 just doesn't cut it on a stroker application, not to mention the low static compression, only using a roller tip rocker and relatively low stall converter.
Who did the portwork on the heads? Anyone reputable in the LT1 community?
If I were you, I would lower your N/A goals and increase your N2O goals. In short, spray more.
Who did the portwork on the heads? Anyone reputable in the LT1 community?
If I were you, I would lower your N/A goals and increase your N2O goals. In short, spray more.
12-07-2010, 07:34 PM
#7
IMO, you're going to be hard-pressed to break into the 11s easily. Not saying it can't be done, but alot of choices made on your build aren't helping your cause. I can respect the need to pass emissions though, so that will be your achilles heel as you can only make so much usable power. Stroker motors need lots of lift and duration and the 502 just doesn't cut it on a stroker application, not to mention the low static compression, only using a roller tip rocker and relatively low stall converter.
Who did the portwork on the heads? Anyone reputable in the LT1 community?
If I were you, I would lower your N/A goals and increase your N2O goals. In short, spray more.
Who did the portwork on the heads? Anyone reputable in the LT1 community?
If I were you, I would lower your N/A goals and increase your N2O goals. In short, spray more.
In short, I'd look at another point of compression, a bit more lift, even that LPE 211/219 cam wouldn't be a bad choice especially because its proven and passes emissions, and might even consider a 3600 stall, even with the spray...Of course there's always a custom grind cam, too...Good luck with everything...
--Alan
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12-08-2010, 04:25 AM
#8
Which mufflex is it? If its the single in dual out you will be choking that motor. The MSD opti was unnecessary, hope you dont have issues with it. And as stated the stall choice isnt ideal, on a bone stock LT1 I wouldn't run anything less than a 3200, Id run a 3600 at least. The heads are going to be the x factor. I bought "fully ported" heads on the classifieds on here and they are only flowing 228/196. I think your quest for the 11s will be helped by the rest of your setup (suspension, stall etc)
12-08-2010, 09:29 AM
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IMO, you're going to be hard-pressed to break into the 11s easily. Not saying it can't be done, but alot of choices made on your build aren't helping your cause. I can respect the need to pass emissions though, so that will be your achilles heel as you can only make so much usable power. Stroker motors need lots of lift and duration and the 502 just doesn't cut it on a stroker application, not to mention the low static compression, only using a roller tip rocker and relatively low stall converter.
Who did the portwork on the heads? Anyone reputable in the LT1 community?
If I were you, I would lower your N/A goals and increase your N2O goals. In short, spray more.
Who did the portwork on the heads? Anyone reputable in the LT1 community?
If I were you, I would lower your N/A goals and increase your N2O goals. In short, spray more.
I agree about running your numbers n/a but I'm from the camp that feels that you don't need big duration, even in strokers to run fast. More lift? yes, but in my own application I run a 383 with a weenie 226/234 .568" lift cam. These motors love lift, but you can definitely go too far with duration...Hell, I was in the high 11s back in 1995 with the 383 and a Lingenfelter 211/219 .533/.560" cam, Vig 3600 and 3.42s, and went thru MD's strick emissions tests with ease. John Lingenfelter and I used to go 'round and 'round about duration in LT applications with stock ported heads and he finally won me over with dyno and track testing, not too mention valve train longevity.
In short, I'd look at another point of compression, a bit more lift, even that LPE 211/219 cam wouldn't be a bad choice especially because its proven and passes emissions, and might even consider a 3600 stall, even with the spray...Of course there's always a custom grind cam, too...Good luck with everything...
--Alan
In short, I'd look at another point of compression, a bit more lift, even that LPE 211/219 cam wouldn't be a bad choice especially because its proven and passes emissions, and might even consider a 3600 stall, even with the spray...Of course there's always a custom grind cam, too...Good luck with everything...
--Alan
Which mufflex is it? If its the single in dual out you will be choking that motor. The MSD opti was unnecessary, hope you dont have issues with it. And as stated the stall choice isnt ideal, on a bone stock LT1 I wouldn't run anything less than a 3200, Id run a 3600 at least. The heads are going to be the x factor. I bought "fully ported" heads on the classifieds on here and they are only flowing 228/196. I think your quest for the 11s will be helped by the rest of your setup (suspension, stall etc)
In the quest for 11's, I am going to try to run what I have now. The car is in Florida and I should have it back around February. First thing is to get it through inspection and after that head to the track. Unfortunately its been about 5 years since I have even driven the car. I'm in the northeast and have some pretty good tracks here like Cecil and Atco so maybe the track will help me a little too with the good spring air. If it doesn't run the number, I will start with simple bolt ons such as the underdrive pulley, electric waterpump and some suspension pieces. If I pass the emissions test with flying colors, I can change out the cam, bump the nitrous and have the stall modified too. The only thing where I am really dead in the water would be with the compression. Money is aways a concern, but I can come up with it if I need it!
Thanks again everyone!
12-08-2010, 11:09 AM
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i think the build looks fine, there are alot of knowledgeable people on here but dont take everything too seriously, i was told my motor is junk by forum members, companies, and others that i would be in the mid 300 RWHP, the bottom end is trash, converter is too small, but it put down 410 RWHP unlocked through single 3 inch exhaust and 4.10 gears...
good luck man.
good luck man.
12-08-2010, 11:56 AM
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i think the build looks fine, there are alot of knowledgeable people on here but dont take everything too seriously, i was told my motor is junk by forum members, companies, and others that i would be in the mid 300 RWHP, the bottom end is trash, converter is too small, but it put down 410 RWHP unlocked through single 3 inch exhaust and 4.10 gears...
good luck man.
good luck man.
IIRC I think I have seen guys with just bolt ons running mid 12's. If people are doing that, I don't see why a mild 383 can't. If it doesn't, I'll take the appropriate actions!
. 
12-08-2010, 03:31 PM
#16
With the torque of the 383 along with a 3k converter and 3.73's, I don't think 11's will be a problem. Now with that much torque your main problem will be traction. Get a set of slicks or good drag radials and you should not have problems with running your goals. Hell I ran 10's with a 355' LT1, Le1 heads, 224/230cam and a 150 shot.
12-08-2010, 03:56 PM
#18
i think that car should be able to poke into the 11's with supporting mods obveously (ie. tire, weight, tune) ........i mean the cam is a bit tame and who knows on the heads but like stated above you dont need a huggggeeee cam to make good power.......those heads are what leaves me up in the air on what is gonna do......matters how good they work....
12-08-2010, 05:45 PM
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With the torque of the 383 along with a 3k converter and 3.73's, I don't think 11's will be a problem. Now with that much torque your main problem will be traction. Get a set of slicks or good drag radials and you should not have problems with running your goals. Hell I ran 10's with a 355' LT1, Le1 heads, 224/230cam and a 150 shot.
i think that car should be able to poke into the 11's with supporting mods obveously (ie. tire, weight, tune) ........i mean the cam is a bit tame and who knows on the heads but like stated above you dont need a huggggeeee cam to make good power.......those heads are what leaves me up in the air on what is gonna do......matters how good they work....
12-08-2010, 05:55 PM
#20
ld shoot for 11.5:1 with a small high DCR cam.
A lot of engine builders and porters are pretty superstitious and that groove looks gimmicky to me - like the little notch some people put near the spark plug.
In all honestly I think it will just drop CR a tiny bit, won't hurt but won't help.
A lot of engine builders and porters are pretty superstitious and that groove looks gimmicky to me - like the little notch some people put near the spark plug.
In all honestly I think it will just drop CR a tiny bit, won't hurt but won't help.