"Street Stock" At The LTX Shootout 2011
12-30-2010, 12:42 PM
#81
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We really need to keep the rules as basic as possible. There seems to be alot of variables with susspension,chassis and such so some where there will need to be a line in the sand drawn.
12-30-2010, 12:43 PM
#82
Mike, this class intended to be an entry level class for street cars. As with any set of rules, there is always the possibility that someone will build a car on the ragged edge. We will try to be as specific as possible with the rules to cover as many "what-ifs" as possible.
I would hope that requiring, street equipment, tags, insurance, and a current inspection would keep purpose built cars out. What do you guys think about that idea?
I would hope that requiring, street equipment, tags, insurance, and a current inspection would keep purpose built cars out. What do you guys think about that idea?
12-30-2010, 12:43 PM
#83
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Mike, this class intended to be an entry level class for street cars. As with any set of rules, there is always the possibility that someone will build a car on the ragged edge. We will try to be as specific as possible with the rules to cover as many "what-ifs" as possible.
I would hope that requiring, street equipment, tags, insurance, and a current inspection would keep purpose built cars out. What do you guys think about that idea?
I would hope that requiring, street equipment, tags, insurance, and a current inspection would keep purpose built cars out. What do you guys think about that idea?
12-30-2010, 01:18 PM
#85
So if i was going to have an exhaust id have hooker long tubes, no cats and true duals dumped before the axle. Thats clearly an advantage over someone say from NC where they need all the things id delete.
What about cut-outs? Wouldn't that help guys that want to keep a smog legal exhaust?
(When I was running IHRA Pure Stock there was zero difference going from 3" turbo mufflers to open pipes)
Last edited by GIZMO; 01-02-2011 at 04:21 PM.
12-30-2010, 01:30 PM
#86
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In NC you have to have an inspection to get a tag. As to what you do it after that. Nobody at the Shootout will be trying to enforce state laws!
I would guess that this is the kind of set-up that most would like to see being legal as it is very common. Would everyone be OK with that. I think that the turndowns need to be a minimum distance from the rear axle.
What about cut-outs? Wouldn't that help guys that want to keep a smog legal exhaust?
(When I was running IHRA Pure Stock there was zero difference going from 3" turbo mufflers to open pipes)
I would guess that this is the kind of set-up that most would like to see being legal as it is very common. Would everyone be OK with that. I think that the turndowns need to be a minimum distance from the rear axle.
What about cut-outs? Wouldn't that help guys that want to keep a smog legal exhaust?
(When I was running IHRA Pure Stock there was zero difference going from 3" turbo mufflers to open pipes)
12-30-2010, 03:36 PM
#89
Mike, this class intended to be an entry level class for street cars. As with any set of rules, there is always the possibility that someone will build a car on the ragged edge. We will try to be as specific as possible with the rules to cover as many "what-ifs" as possible.
I would hope that requiring, street equipment, tags, insurance, and a current inspection would keep purpose built cars out. What do you guys think about that idea?
I would hope that requiring, street equipment, tags, insurance, and a current inspection would keep purpose built cars out. What do you guys think about that idea?
12-30-2010, 04:47 PM
#90
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I would rather just use a TQ arm - especially when I have a nice UMI adjustable, but adapting one to the cast center is a challenge. It's something I will work on, but I'm sure it wouldn't be done before Sept. The mini-ladders would really only be a budget way of getting into a stronger rearend. I already have the 12 bolt and parts. $1500 for a bolt-in housing and axles is out of my budget at this time.
12-30-2010, 05:36 PM
#92
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Mike, this class intended to be an entry level class for street cars. As with any set of rules, there is always the possibility that someone will build a car on the ragged edge. We will try to be as specific as possible with the rules to cover as many "what-ifs" as possible.
I would hope that requiring, street equipment, tags, insurance, and a current inspection would keep purpose built cars out. What do you guys think about that idea?
I would hope that requiring, street equipment, tags, insurance, and a current inspection would keep purpose built cars out. What do you guys think about that idea?
12-30-2010, 06:45 PM
#93
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While I don't have either, wouldn't it be kind of even to allow a single 3" cut-out on cars with single exhaust to compare with duals and no cut-outs? I could be off, but it seems like power-wise the potential would be about the same.
A/C will always be in my car 'cause it gets HOT in Georgia, but I don't blame people up north from ditching it even in a true DD.
A/C will always be in my car 'cause it gets HOT in Georgia, but I don't blame people up north from ditching it even in a true DD.
12-30-2010, 07:24 PM
#94
what about an '86 s10 blazer with lt1, 4l60e, stock rear, and bolt ons??
12-30-2010, 07:26 PM
#95
I wouldn't go for this, because AC delete was a factory option.
I think that the heater box should be in place and the heater should be functional.
I am also OK with the idea of looping the power steering or running a short belt.
The alternator needs to be functional.
I think that the heater box should be in place and the heater should be functional.
I am also OK with the idea of looping the power steering or running a short belt.
The alternator needs to be functional.
12-30-2010, 07:46 PM
#96
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i know the heads are a bit different from the 9c1 and the fbody so thats why im asking. but i will be running stock internals with some bolt ons powered by a tuned pcm for headers, !egr, !air.... wil also have !ac will have full exhaust, some weight reduction such as spare and jack, rear seats and belts, possible carpet and passenger seat unless thats a no-no....
the s10 has very similar mods as my car but i think there should be a class for everything else that has a lt1 that didnt come stock with a lt1 such as the s10, 240's, lt1 powered chevelles novas mustangs or whatever....
edit: an lt1 powered 240 against a 3800lb lt1 chevelle doesnt sound very fair, does it? lol
12-30-2010, 08:52 PM
#97
I think specific exhaust rules are going to alienate a lot of people. Does the track have a dB limit? If so, I say leave it at that. Guys have all sorts of different custom exhausts. They are one of the few things that make a bolt on car unique.
As far as what makes it a street car, I think it comes down to tires, lights, wipers, seat belts and defroster. Back when I worked at a dealer GM sent us a fleet of golf carts with exactly that equipment and we registered them and drove them on the streets to meet some stupid CAFE regs. State inspection regs vary so widely that it isn't a very equal measure.
As far as what makes it a street car, I think it comes down to tires, lights, wipers, seat belts and defroster. Back when I worked at a dealer GM sent us a fleet of golf carts with exactly that equipment and we registered them and drove them on the streets to meet some stupid CAFE regs. State inspection regs vary so widely that it isn't a very equal measure.
12-31-2010, 05:44 AM
#99
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First thing is: Who is the class being designed for? If we want the class to attract young and/or low budget and/or first timers to the Shootout/Sport we need to have them in mind and what the average guy reading the rules thinks. If he starts reading "2.75in drag bars allowed, Moser 9in, 12 bolts, and S60's allowed, Full spools allowed, etc" he's going to say screw that I'll drink a beer at home instead. I know how we see bolt on cars, running 11's, etc but we have a specific group in mind for this class. If you just want the top 8 bolt on guys in the country to show up, then that's fine, but be aware you're going to turn alot of people away doing that.
Not sure if it's been addressed, in respect to the "nothing that touches oil" rulings. Let's say you do 1.6RR's, well you should change springs, and maybe add guideplates, studs, and possibly pushrods, I mean how far in can you go? Guy's don't want to allow .030 over rebuild or ARP rod bolts... Then you start thinking what ratio RR's would be the highest tolerated? 1.85? Stock ratio?
I also see folks saying you could get away with stuffing a built for class cam in there. Well, I say keep the valvetrain stock components only and you'll at least make a cam swap more of a pain. Dealing with stock rockers and springs should hinder it a little, no? Then if you think someone might be bending the rules, yank a valve cover and/or pull a spring and check to see if it's stock specs. Easier than pulling a cam.
I know lots of bolt on guys have 1.6RR's so I'll get shot down, but I figured it was worth a shot. I'm my mind that would be a stock motor with bolt on's car.
I think keeping this a Factory LT1 vehicle class would benefit the field. Average Joe would be much more willing to participate. I agree with factory transmissions only although, not sure how I feel about the aftermarket rear in a bolt on car. If this class was meant for the low-budget guy, how's he competing with folks running 4.56's and a spool in a 9in? I think it adds a degree of balance and risk to limit the class to factory motor and driveline. Gear up your 10 bolt, but possibly not make it through all the rounds...
Just things I thought about while I was at work today.
-Dustin-
Not sure if it's been addressed, in respect to the "nothing that touches oil" rulings. Let's say you do 1.6RR's, well you should change springs, and maybe add guideplates, studs, and possibly pushrods, I mean how far in can you go? Guy's don't want to allow .030 over rebuild or ARP rod bolts... Then you start thinking what ratio RR's would be the highest tolerated? 1.85? Stock ratio?
I also see folks saying you could get away with stuffing a built for class cam in there. Well, I say keep the valvetrain stock components only and you'll at least make a cam swap more of a pain. Dealing with stock rockers and springs should hinder it a little, no? Then if you think someone might be bending the rules, yank a valve cover and/or pull a spring and check to see if it's stock specs. Easier than pulling a cam.
I know lots of bolt on guys have 1.6RR's so I'll get shot down, but I figured it was worth a shot. I'm my mind that would be a stock motor with bolt on's car.
I think keeping this a Factory LT1 vehicle class would benefit the field. Average Joe would be much more willing to participate. I agree with factory transmissions only although, not sure how I feel about the aftermarket rear in a bolt on car. If this class was meant for the low-budget guy, how's he competing with folks running 4.56's and a spool in a 9in? I think it adds a degree of balance and risk to limit the class to factory motor and driveline. Gear up your 10 bolt, but possibly not make it through all the rounds...
Just things I thought about while I was at work today.
-Dustin-
Last edited by Bersaglieri; 12-31-2010 at 06:00 AM.
12-31-2010, 10:32 AM
#100
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with regards to the rear dilemma, i woud say stock 10 bolt. this class is mean for newbies and people with not alot of $$ such as myself. if they have a 9 inch, 8.8, s60, etc they obviously have $$ and arent newbies so whats to stop them from not telling us they have done engine work?? i know there is no way of telling if the gears have been swapped out but as long as its the stock housing, i would say good to go.
same goes for the trans. stock 6 speed or a4. i know there isnt much way to tell unless its jacked up and techs take a look under it... pretty sure this wont happen for this class.
driveshafts... idgaf
engines.... bolt on only, free mods, etc
tires... stock dd tires, no skinnies and dr's
just my 2 cents
same goes for the trans. stock 6 speed or a4. i know there isnt much way to tell unless its jacked up and techs take a look under it... pretty sure this wont happen for this class.
driveshafts... idgaf
engines.... bolt on only, free mods, etc
tires... stock dd tires, no skinnies and dr's
just my 2 cents