grazi

I've been throwing parts at a major driveability problem I've been havin on my 94 TA Automatic 102,000 miles bone stock...I'm hoping saomebody can give me some help here. I'll literally put $100.00 into the persons paypal account if they can find whats wrong with my car.
Problem: Only when warm in closed loop, between 1500 and maybe 2500 rpm my car studders and falls flat on its face when I give it gas. When I give it gas, it wil just bog out for a 5-10 seconds , then downshift and take off better. If I power brake it, it revs up to maybe 1500 rpm then bogs out and tries to stall. It's been getting worse and worse.I have datamaster file that I can linnk on here if anyone wants to see, I'm getting 15 degreees of spark retard usually when this happens
So far heres what I've done:
Changed IAC Valve
CHanged ECT sensor
IAT sensor
Fuel filter
O2 sensors
EGR solenoid valve
pretty much all vacuum lines
Swapped TPS sensor with another one
Swapped MAF sensor with another one
Swapped MAP sensor with another one
Cleaned EGR valve
NGK Tr55's .045 gap
MSD 8mm wires
MSD blaster coil
Shobox? Injuneer? Anybody Please help out. I'm ready to drive this thing off a cliff.....
Thanks a ton

FocusVince

Not to be mr. "change the optispark" man...but maybe that's it.

grazi

http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthr...ht=spark+knock
In this thread are my Datamaster runs. Couldnt download directly sorry

Coyotesa

iTrader: (1)

When my car did that it was a clogged cat. Use a infared thermometer if its super hot in the front of the cat and cooler in the rear, its clogged.

-Buddy-

grazi

I know most people would say change the opti, The previous owner said he changed it last year, I know that doesnt mean anything though. It seems every thread I read with peoples same problems like mine say that the opti change didnt help it though

grazi

With the clogged cat, did the power kick back in or did it just stay weak....This definitley feels like a sensor type thing. You can almost see the tach kicking up and down when its happening as if the computer or sensor is ticking on and off....Its really hard to explain.

grazi

Also I checked fuel pressure at idle ans WOT both good. I think they were 36 and 42

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

Perhaps Ignition Control Module (ICM) is overheating? The thermal paste on the back of it is pretty crappy to begin with. Gets real cruddy over the years. Try swapping the ICM or doing the spacer mod (putting washers/nuts between the icm/coil bracket and the cylinder head).

JC316

iTrader: (1)

Knock sensor perhaps? It has the ability to retard timing that much.

F0x Slaughter

You are running extremely rich first off.
The right bank is extremely rich, you hit 116, average of 116.7 thats 12 points off.

Why is your idle set to 550 rpm?!?!

Do you have TunerCats?


HOLY ****! You hit 145 on the STFT and 227 on the LTFT!!!!

Thats at at 1325rpm with TPS at 62%. You also have a MAF failure code.

Coyotesa

iTrader: (1)

It fell on its face hard then would go again with a clogged cat, when it finally got really bad the engine started to overheat but i had the power loss problem for awhile before it clogged so bad it over heated.

Its easy to check like i said cant hurt.
-Buddy-

F0x Slaughter

It could be a clogged cat due to it running to rich but thats not the reason why it happened. You have some major tuning issues.

Its a 94 so its OBD1 so it only has precat o2 sensors.

You are not seeing false knock. You need to fix the tune.

grazi

Fox slaughter. I do not have any tune on car. I am second owner bought from a lady that i doubt ever had any pcm work done..so 550 rpm is what computer commanded for some reason.....The MAF code is set becasue I tried running it with MAF unplugged to see if anything changed, nothing did...I never cleared the code

grazi

I just replaced both o2's with no change.Thanks for looking by the way

F0x Slaughter

I'm telling you right now its a tuning issue. Some how your PCM has been changed. Need to read the PCM. Or swap out PCM with a known good one. Stock RPM setting is 800rpm. 550 is super low.

What are the modifications to the car?

grazi

Got it, makes sense...How would I go about reading or changing the pcm's tune.

F0x Slaughter

You need to get a tuner program. Do you have access to another PCM? Tuning programs cost around 300 for the whole setup (if you go TunerCats) HPTuners is like 600 and can only tune 1 car. TunerCats can tune as much as you want.

If you don't want to do it that way and can deal a couple days without the car running you can mail me your PCM and I will slap it in my car pull the tune off and look at it.

Like I said its whacked for some reason I guarantee thats what the problem is.

Your idle spark timing is low also. It's at 19*, I run 32* at idle. Stock is between 20 and 30.

za355tx

iTrader: (108)

I sold a formula to a guy some years back with the car running great and within 2 weeks the car was acting similar to yours. He had it retuned and then it ran great...not saying that's for sure the issue but I would maybe find someone with a stock tuned pcm and throw it in to see if there are positive changes. That way if its not the pcm at least you'll know and won't have wasted money.

grazi

Thats the thing with my car too. When I got it, it seemed to run decent although it had a different bunch of issues. I tried to pinpoint when it started to get bad but I couldnt tell if it was when I put on the SLP CAI or when I replaced the ECT sensor and possibly got some coolant on the opti or what

FAD2BLK93

Are u sure u are getting a signal from the knock sensor? If the computer does not see the resistance it will retard the timing big time, i believe it is a 5 volt reference. I dont see that u have checked or changed knock sensor? Make sure its hooked up or a break in the wire...happened to me.