James Montigny's 383 build thread - Lots of pics
03-30-2011, 12:38 AM
#21
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Aug 31, 2009
Drove it to work Friday ... it was nice to finally get to do that again.
Set off every car alarm in the garage ... better yet, didn't hear them until I turned mine off
If I leave it in 3rd, it doesn't do the annoying surge deal cruising at 55-65mph.
I ordered an AC delete pulley.
For now, I'm just going to remove the dead compressor.
We'll see how I feel next spring.
I'd might as well delete the whole thing, getting 10-12mpg is pretty much making this a non-DD candidate
88 degrees of overlap is great for peak power, but it's just crazy inefficient at the bottom end.
Then again, the 10-12mpg is also partially due to my lead foot and 4000 stall
Oh well ... all part of the fun.
Drove it to work Friday ... it was nice to finally get to do that again.
Set off every car alarm in the garage ... better yet, didn't hear them until I turned mine off
If I leave it in 3rd, it doesn't do the annoying surge deal cruising at 55-65mph.
I ordered an AC delete pulley.
For now, I'm just going to remove the dead compressor.
We'll see how I feel next spring.
I'd might as well delete the whole thing, getting 10-12mpg is pretty much making this a non-DD candidate
88 degrees of overlap is great for peak power, but it's just crazy inefficient at the bottom end.
Then again, the 10-12mpg is also partially due to my lead foot and 4000 stall
Oh well ... all part of the fun.
03-30-2011, 12:38 AM
#22
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Sep 02, 2009
So I decided that the AC compressor is the cause of my funny noises under the hood.
Lost a decent amount of blood when I stepped on one of the screws from the radiator fan
Stupid car is trying to kill me. I know it.
Having to explain the bloody footprints and blood-soaked roll of toilet paper
(had to apply pressure somehow while I washed the grease off my hands) was interesting when the wife got home.
Anyhow, I eventually got it off and removed the hard lines that connect it to the condenser and the metal brick up by the ECM.
I'll run an AC delete pulley for now, I might put a new compressor in next summer.
I guess I should find a set of pipe plugs to seal those off until then.
Note to anyone removing their A/C.
Removing the passenger side sway bar mounting bracket first will save you a lot of time and swear jar money.
So I decided that the AC compressor is the cause of my funny noises under the hood.
Lost a decent amount of blood when I stepped on one of the screws from the radiator fan
Stupid car is trying to kill me. I know it.
Having to explain the bloody footprints and blood-soaked roll of toilet paper
(had to apply pressure somehow while I washed the grease off my hands) was interesting when the wife got home.
Anyhow, I eventually got it off and removed the hard lines that connect it to the condenser and the metal brick up by the ECM.
I'll run an AC delete pulley for now, I might put a new compressor in next summer.
I guess I should find a set of pipe plugs to seal those off until then.
Note to anyone removing their A/C.
Removing the passenger side sway bar mounting bracket first will save you a lot of time and swear jar money.
03-30-2011, 12:38 AM
#23
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Oct 30, 2009
Pulled the governor out today, replaced weights #4 and #5 with #5 and #6.
Took it for a test dive down Outer Rd 71 N ...
"hmm ... lots of smoke, guess we didn't clean the headers good enough"
"Holy ****! huge smoke cloud covering the outer road and causing people to swerve on 71 30ft away!"
"smoke in cabin" ..... augh!!!!!!!!
Pulled over in the CarQuest parking lot, looked underneath.
Stupid accumulator snap ring had popped off, spewing tranny fluid everywhere.\
(including headers, x pipe, mufflers, axle, torque arm ......... let's just say undercarriage rust will never be an issue for me)
Rolled it back to the shop (downhill all the way FTW!)
Fixed now ... took it for a few test laps around the block, then out to Raymore
and romped on it a few times. Seems to be holding and shifting higher at part throttle.
Need to do some WOT data logging this weekend and see where it shifts.
Track was closed tonight anyhow.
Quick review for those who want to set shift points in a 700R4/Th400/Th350
Weights are numbered 1-6, 6 being the lightest (highest shift point)
A combination of weights 4 and 5 produce a 6375RPM shift for me (Similar results in other cars I've done)
Springs are colored in a rainbow pattern (Purple, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Black)
Purple being the lightest, Black being the firmest.
Firmer springs produce longer, soggy shifts. (no idea why anyone would want that)
Stock springs appear to be the equiv to Orange and Green.
Weight 1 15g
Weight 2 12g
Weight 3 10g
Weight 4 8g
Weight 5 6g
Weight 6 5g
so
8g+6g = 14g (6375 shift)
6g+5g = 11g (>7000 shift)
8g+5g = 13g (>7000 shift)
Also: don't lose the stupid e-clips; they're impossible to find on short notice (and with poor eyesight)
I bought a whole box when I finally found them, they're in my toolbox just in case.
Pulled the governor out today, replaced weights #4 and #5 with #5 and #6.
Took it for a test dive down Outer Rd 71 N ...
"hmm ... lots of smoke, guess we didn't clean the headers good enough"
"Holy ****! huge smoke cloud covering the outer road and causing people to swerve on 71 30ft away!"
"smoke in cabin" ..... augh!!!!!!!!
Pulled over in the CarQuest parking lot, looked underneath.
Stupid accumulator snap ring had popped off, spewing tranny fluid everywhere.\
(including headers, x pipe, mufflers, axle, torque arm ......... let's just say undercarriage rust will never be an issue for me)
Rolled it back to the shop (downhill all the way FTW!)
Fixed now ... took it for a few test laps around the block, then out to Raymore
and romped on it a few times. Seems to be holding and shifting higher at part throttle.
Need to do some WOT data logging this weekend and see where it shifts.
Track was closed tonight anyhow.
Quick review for those who want to set shift points in a 700R4/Th400/Th350
Weights are numbered 1-6, 6 being the lightest (highest shift point)
A combination of weights 4 and 5 produce a 6375RPM shift for me (Similar results in other cars I've done)
Springs are colored in a rainbow pattern (Purple, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Black)
Purple being the lightest, Black being the firmest.
Firmer springs produce longer, soggy shifts. (no idea why anyone would want that)
Stock springs appear to be the equiv to Orange and Green.
Weight 1 15g
Weight 2 12g
Weight 3 10g
Weight 4 8g
Weight 5 6g
Weight 6 5g
so
8g+6g = 14g (6375 shift)
6g+5g = 11g (>7000 shift)
8g+5g = 13g (>7000 shift)
Also: don't lose the stupid e-clips; they're impossible to find on short notice (and with poor eyesight)
I bought a whole box when I finally found them, they're in my toolbox just in case.
03-30-2011, 12:38 AM
#24
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Nov 25, 2009
Guys, I'm beyond tired of dealing with this cam. (236/248 104LSA)
The 93 ECM just can't handle a lack of vacuum. It's too slow and it doesn't have a MAF.
I have decided on a new cam from Lloyd.
The new grind makes slightly more TQ across the board but has significantly less overlap.
I'll probably lose some top end power, but the one I have now is just too aggressive for my taste and for the ECM to handle.
With one of the aftermarket PCM options, I could have taken advantage of higher RPM
this would have made having more duration more desirable. If you look at TQ values as seen
by the driveshaft, a 7500RPM shift actually would have picked up .15 or so with either cam.
I was also looking at a 246/248 113LSA cam for giggles. (A friend just put one in his 396 Lt1 hawk)
Existing cam (JDM383) vs. new grind (LE383b)
Guys, I'm beyond tired of dealing with this cam. (236/248 104LSA)
The 93 ECM just can't handle a lack of vacuum. It's too slow and it doesn't have a MAF.
I have decided on a new cam from Lloyd.
The new grind makes slightly more TQ across the board but has significantly less overlap.
I'll probably lose some top end power, but the one I have now is just too aggressive for my taste and for the ECM to handle.
With one of the aftermarket PCM options, I could have taken advantage of higher RPM
this would have made having more duration more desirable. If you look at TQ values as seen
by the driveshaft, a 7500RPM shift actually would have picked up .15 or so with either cam.
I was also looking at a 246/248 113LSA cam for giggles. (A friend just put one in his 396 Lt1 hawk)
Existing cam (JDM383) vs. new grind (LE383b)
Last edited by James Montigny; 03-30-2011 at 01:47 AM.
03-30-2011, 12:39 AM
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Dec 09, 2009
Cam arrived today
Gaskets are here, tune is ready .... just need offset bushings and we're good to go
Interesting LE comment of the day: (in response to me pointing out that the cam card indicated a 107 ICL)
112 LSA
Lobe peak occurs at 107*, but the cam actually acts more like a 110 ICL
The lobes are asymmetric, which is actually not uncommon with modern cam designs.
Although it does make cam math a little more complicated if you didn't know about the lobe profile LOL
Cam arrived today Gaskets are here, tune is ready .... just need offset bushings and we're good to go
Interesting LE comment of the day: (in response to me pointing out that the cam card indicated a 107 ICL)
It is a 112 +5 meaning the intake centerline is on a 107.
These lobes have the centerline (where peak lift occurs) happening about 3 degrees sooner than the 1/2 point between the open/close points. This means that
the cam is actually a 112 +2 (110 ICL) if you are basing it on the open/close timing events but peak lift is happening at the 107 degree point.
The lobes are VERY asymmetrical and open VERY fast then level off and then they close like normal lobes so the valve train remains stable at high RPM
These lobes have the centerline (where peak lift occurs) happening about 3 degrees sooner than the 1/2 point between the open/close points. This means that
the cam is actually a 112 +2 (110 ICL) if you are basing it on the open/close timing events but peak lift is happening at the 107 degree point.
The lobes are VERY asymmetrical and open VERY fast then level off and then they close like normal lobes so the valve train remains stable at high RPM
Lobe peak occurs at 107*, but the cam actually acts more like a 110 ICL
The lobes are asymmetric, which is actually not uncommon with modern cam designs.
Although it does make cam math a little more complicated if you didn't know about the lobe profile LOL
Last edited by James Montigny; 03-30-2011 at 12:57 AM.
03-30-2011, 12:39 AM
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Aug 04, 2010
So, after drilling, tapping and helicoiling 4 intake manifold bolt holes, I get the thing back together and fired up.
Much better without the vac leak, but sounds like timing is off.
Exhaust blew a lot of smoke and now the whole house smells like unburnt fuel.
*sigh* Looks like it's time to pull the opti off.
This is the project that never ends .... it goes on and on my friends....
So, after drilling, tapping and helicoiling 4 intake manifold bolt holes, I get the thing back together and fired up.
Much better without the vac leak, but sounds like timing is off.
Exhaust blew a lot of smoke and now the whole house smells like unburnt fuel.
*sigh* Looks like it's time to pull the opti off.
This is the project that never ends .... it goes on and on my friends....
03-30-2011, 12:39 AM
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Aug 07, 2010
Back together; starts, idles revs without issue.
Still doesn't sound right to me, but much better than it was.
** Editor's note: the car sat untouched other than being fired up and cursed at for almost 9 months.
There wasn't any single reason, life just got busy.
I did think about my options quite a bit over the winter and finally decided on EFI Connection's 24x conversion.
Mar 01, 2011
Got an LS1 PCM from a 01 LS1 vehicle.
Got an EFI Connections kit (including the harness) to run it on my Lt1
Great idea right? Now I'll have no trouble finding a local tuner. </sarcasm>
Anyhow ... once I get it installed, I'm going to need someone who can build a startup tune so I can at least test it.
Do I want to learn to tune it myself? Sure.
Am I willing to make my startup tune my learning project? HELL NO
Back together; starts, idles revs without issue.
Still doesn't sound right to me, but much better than it was.
** Editor's note: the car sat untouched other than being fired up and cursed at for almost 9 months.
There wasn't any single reason, life just got busy.
I did think about my options quite a bit over the winter and finally decided on EFI Connection's 24x conversion.
Mar 01, 2011
Got an LS1 PCM from a 01 LS1 vehicle.
Got an EFI Connections kit (including the harness) to run it on my Lt1
Great idea right? Now I'll have no trouble finding a local tuner. </sarcasm>
Anyhow ... once I get it installed, I'm going to need someone who can build a startup tune so I can at least test it.
Do I want to learn to tune it myself? Sure.
Am I willing to make my startup tune my learning project? HELL NO
Last edited by James Montigny; 03-30-2011 at 01:49 AM.
03-30-2011, 12:39 AM
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Mar 06, 2011
New timing set is installed; fit nice and tight.
Triple-checked timing.
Installed most of the 24x kit. Fit well, but didn't come with instructions, just "install tips".
I also installed the new wiring harness.
It's very well-constructed and most connectors are labeled.
I picked up my timing cover gaskets today, I'll get that part buttoned up later.
I still need to find/make long LS1 wires with 90* boots to clear my headers
New timing set is installed; fit nice and tight.
Triple-checked timing.
Installed most of the 24x kit. Fit well, but didn't come with instructions, just "install tips".
I also installed the new wiring harness.
It's very well-constructed and most connectors are labeled.
I picked up my timing cover gaskets today, I'll get that part buttoned up later.
I still need to find/make long LS1 wires with 90* boots to clear my headers
03-30-2011, 12:40 AM
#30
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Mar 12, 2011
New harness is in, new coils are installed, 24x kit is installed.
I removed all of the custom add-ons I've done over the years
(heated 02 conversions, speedometer calibration box, ...) since I no longer need them.
I also removed useless items such as the coil, ICM, opti, opti harness, old ECM.
I managed to talk Ed into building me a base tune.
I should have that back this week so I might get to fire this thing up before summer ... yay!
New harness is in, new coils are installed, 24x kit is installed.
I removed all of the custom add-ons I've done over the years
(heated 02 conversions, speedometer calibration box, ...) since I no longer need them.
I also removed useless items such as the coil, ICM, opti, opti harness, old ECM.
I managed to talk Ed into building me a base tune.
I should have that back this week so I might get to fire this thing up before summer ... yay!
03-30-2011, 12:40 AM
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Mar 17, 2011
Ed Wright-tuned PCM showed up today.
I also got an adapter so I could run my 4L60 VSS on the LSx PCM for now. [Thanks Mike!]
I need to look into 4L60e options this weekend.
Everything is pretty much put together, I just need to zip tie a few wires and put the fans back in.
Ed Wright-tuned PCM showed up today.
I also got an adapter so I could run my 4L60 VSS on the LSx PCM for now. [Thanks Mike!]
I need to look into 4L60e options this weekend.
Everything is pretty much put together, I just need to zip tie a few wires and put the fans back in.
Last edited by James Montigny; 03-30-2011 at 01:50 AM.
03-30-2011, 12:40 AM
#32
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Mar 21, 2011
Everything is together, I went ahead and replaced all of the coolant hoses while I had it apart.
So she's ready to fire up as soon as my plug and battery wires show up.
Everything is together, I went ahead and replaced all of the coolant hoses while I had it apart.
So she's ready to fire up as soon as my plug and battery wires show up.
03-30-2011, 12:40 AM
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Mar 24, 2011
My custom MSD plug wires showed up ... about 3" too long and 60ohm.
But they look nice and they'll work for now.
Maybe I'll shorten and recrimp them later.
I replaced all of my coolant hoses because they were looking a little crusty
and because I have some downtime. Otherwise it's pretty much all ready to go
My custom MSD plug wires showed up ... about 3" too long and 60ohm.
But they look nice and they'll work for now.
Maybe I'll shorten and recrimp them later.
I replaced all of my coolant hoses because they were looking a little crusty
and because I have some downtime. Otherwise it's pretty much all ready to go
Last edited by James Montigny; 03-30-2011 at 01:51 AM.
03-30-2011, 12:40 AM
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Mar 29, 2011
Put everything together today, charged the battery, turns the key to "acc" and realized that I
forgot to extend the oil pressure wire down to the sensor. I'll get that done
this week so I can fire it up. But the EWP and Fuel pumps fire up, so that's a good sign.
No coolant or fuel leaks.
0/1 gauge battery cables are a lot tougher to work with than I expected.
Oh well, at least I won't have charging problems ... I hope.
I also placed my order with Performabuilt
LEVEL 2 - Pro Race 4L60E LT-1
http://www.performabuilt.com/level-2.html
Put everything together today, charged the battery, turns the key to "acc" and realized that I
forgot to extend the oil pressure wire down to the sensor. I'll get that done
this week so I can fire it up. But the EWP and Fuel pumps fire up, so that's a good sign.
No coolant or fuel leaks.
0/1 gauge battery cables are a lot tougher to work with than I expected.
Oh well, at least I won't have charging problems ... I hope.
I also placed my order with Performabuilt
LEVEL 2 - Pro Race 4L60E LT-1
http://www.performabuilt.com/level-2.html
Last edited by James Montigny; 03-30-2011 at 02:31 AM.
03-30-2011, 08:52 AM
#38
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Tune it yourself, you know your way around these cars pretty good I think you could do it.
I can send you a tune file to get you started also. Let me know if you need.
I have Neil's tune.
I can send you a tune file to get you started also. Let me know if you need.
I have Neil's tune.
