sc.schultz

iTrader: (2)

I recently just purchased a CCI Stage 2 clutch kit. I'm going to be changing my clutch out in a week or two. I had a few questions before I started (to make sure I have everything).

1) I want to replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts (ARP if possible), and am not sure of the part numbers for the ones I need... The ARP ones I look at say gen 1 applications, etc. Which ones are the ones I need?

2) Is a craftsman torque wrench accurate enough for torquing down the flywheel and all the bolts? I know it's not the best out there, but the most I can afford right now.

3) How long of an extension do you think is needed to remove the transmission? 20" long enough?

Sorry if these questions have been answered before, but I've searched the board and couldn't find a definite answer.

Thanks

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Don't know the part number of the bolts. You can always call...
I've used the same Craftsman torque wrench for the last 15 years and it's been fine. Are the Snap-On nutswingers telling you different?
Whenever I do a trans I always take the trans support off, let trans hang and it's far easier to get to top bolts. 20" may be long enough. I don't remember...

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

im a snap on nutswinger and i dont have a snap-on torque wrench...although there is difference in accuracy torq w to torq w. 20 will be long enough and a good ball in socket swivel not a u joint will be your friend. dunno about the bolts. match them up when you get them out.

sc.schultz

iTrader: (2)

Ordered ARP 200-2802 bolts for the flywheel. I wish I had time to pull the bolts out and compare them but I'm borrowing a shop right now and need to get it done ASAP. Hopefully these are the flywheel bolts I need.

As far as pressure plate bolts go, did they use torque to yield bolts in the 97 SS or can I re-use these? These bolts seem to be fairly difficult to find replacements for.

Also, can someone verify these torque specs?
flywheel bolts = 75 ft/lbs with red loctite
pressure plate bolts = 22 ft/lbs with red loctite

This is my first clutch swap if you can't already tell.

tbag_skywalker

ARP doesn't make pressure plate bolts for LT1 cars. Our bolts are longer than the old school SB bolts, and might be a different thread, too.

As far as I know, McLeod is the only company that makes pressure plate bolts for our cars. Call them, or just figure out what thread you need and go buy some grade8's at a hardware store.

You torque spec's are fine, but doing a clutch swap isn't exactly brain surgery. You need precision when torquing down cylinder heads, not a flywheel and pressure plate. I used a Craftsman torque wrench when I did my swap, but I'm sure there's guys that use cheapass Harbor Freight torque wrenchs, or no wrench at all with success.

The torque spec for the pressure plate is really low because LT1 pressure plates are aluminum, not steel like most other cars, and aluminum will distort and crack easier if over tightened. 22 ft lbs is the factory specification, I torqued my Spec stage2 to 30 because that's what Spec had specified. Loctite for those bolts isn't a bad idea either.

Don't worry about Loctite on the flywheel bolts, just crank it down to 75 and it won't come loose.

bigj2717

iTrader: (15)

I use about 3' worth of extensions to get to the top bolts with a swivel so I can work by the tail shaft where there is more room

BALLSS

^^^^yes

I have re-used my PP bolts multiple times. 22 ft lbs is not much TQ on them to re-use

sc.schultz

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the help so far everyone.

Should I have the one or two piece rear main seal style? I'm seeing two different types of ARP bolts for the LT1 and the only difference is the RMS style. Should I have ordered the 1 or 2 piece? Or does it not matter?

Lastly, do I need to worry about getting my flywheel balanced after resurfacing it? My local machine shop can't balance them.

GREGG 97Z

iTrader: (4)

Agreed on all bolts, I have had my trans/clutch out 5-6 times and always re used all original bolts involved. Just have the flywheel resurfaced, no balancing required. Don't recall which rear main seal is needed. Let the trans hang down without the xmember to help get the top trans bolts. A good 2' of extensions are required to reach some of them. Get a haynes manual if you havnt already.

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

I would use red loctite on all of the bolts (flywheel and pressure plate) I've had flywheel bolts come loose and it gives a nasty vibration.

tbag_skywalker

LT1s have the 1 piece RMS. The older SBC's have the 2 piece, can't remember what year they stopped with that.

You don't need to have your flywheel rebalanced. The shop will cut an even amount of metal off the surface, which won't throw the balance off at all.

sc.schultz

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks guys. I have everything to do the clutch swap and will be attempting it next weekend. Thanks for the help.

sc.schultz

iTrader: (2)

Well, the clutch swap went smoothly until it was time to drive the car... I can't tell if something is wrong or if it's normal clutch chatter.

I created a thread in the transmission section:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...95-normal.html

How was your stage 2 CCI clutch when you first drove it?

THanks