93 LT1 Vette

worth at least 10 hp. But not as much as a NOS sticker.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

I havent fallen to the royal purple price tag yet.

I would run mobile 1 synthetic befor royal purple.

I use Mobile 1 5000mi oil in both my lexus and trans am, i also used this oil in my lincoln LS v8. Oil is important, but a good filter in my eyes is what really counts, and effects oil pressure more then youd think. I do the mobile 5000mi oil and change it out every 3000miles and run only Wix filters. Oreilly actually has great deals on wix filters, they arnt much more then a Fram or K&n, and are actually cheaper then some of the high end fram or k&n. I ran fram filters for awhile and had oil pressure lights come on when up to temp and at stop lights, i changed to wix and the problem went away.


Another thing that i would do befor running royal purple is swap out a quart of your Oil of choice (unless full synthetic) for a quart of valvoline Vr1 racing oil....also has high zinc content.

I used Lucas cam break in additive when i did the swap, its very high zinc additive for break in.

Just my .02$

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

Joe Gibbs Racing motor oil here.

vtec

iTrader: (1)

probably what i will be switching to if i ever change the oil in my gta again.

Breathing Fire

I suggest you do spend more time there reading about oil. The misinformation that certain engines like thick 30wt oil is just BS. This tells me you know nothing about how oil actually works. The terms 5w-30 10w-30 5w-40 and 10w-40 are grossly misunderstood and in no way indicates an oils performance at its proper operating temperature. I won't quote and say my interpretation of the data I have read rather let you read for yourself. Know this though a 5w-30 and a 10w-40 are the exact same weight at proper operating temp.

As far as brand loyalty to oils I have none. Saying one is better than another because of the bottle stamp is ignorant. I have used many different brands in my many different cars over the many years I have had them. What you need to do is buy the oil that meets the specific requirements of your engine. As someone else has stated different engines have different needs.
As far as royal purple goes I haven't used it, however I don't see a problem in using it or any other that meets the specific requirements of the ls1 or lt1. I would venture to guess that a lot of people use the incorrect oil for their car. Matching the weight is the least you should be doing there is way more to it than that.
Not trying to call you out specifically, but there is a lot more to oil than its multigrade weight rating.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Pennzoil ultra is one of the best oils on the market right now.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

I thought about doing something similiar to this and talked to a rep over at Redline oil. I asked him since their racing oil has such a high level of zinc/phos, 2400-2500 PPM would there be any benefit to going 4 quarts of Redline 5w-30 and 3 quarts of their racing oil. He said no because their 5w-30 already has more than enough zinc/phos, IIRC ~1500 PPM, and I would need the detergents for the street. However on a racing day it's a different story and just go full racing oil instead.

Makes sense since I haven't even seen a track yet and probably won't till next year.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Amen!

I have the original 454 out of my g-dad's 85 Suburban with 19x,xxx miles on it the oil was changed every 2500 miles with regular old Pennzoil. When I poppednthe valve covers and the intakentonstart rebuilding, everything looked brand fn new. So, I just swapped the intake, carb and vas and let her eat.

Like it has already been said, frequency probably has more to do with longevity than brand does.

WhiteKnight '01

I started putting RP in my car when I bought it at 40,000 miles. At 72,000 miles now, been running it ever since...no problems at all. Except one, it does seem to burn through the oil. Every 2,000-3,000 miles I'm about a quart low. But that's the LS1 motor in general.

SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

Which one do you use? I use the synthetic hot rod oil.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Royal Purple is decent oil-but it does seem to disappear more quickly than others. And, your money will disappear more quickly as it's stupidly expensive-surely to pay for all their ads and hype. Also, most (including me) considered their claims of higher horsepower to be un-founded.

ME? German Castrol 0w/30 and a Mobil One filter or better-like a Cummins LF.

(and because some of you expect this from me) DON'T USE FRAM OIL FILTERS!

lt1-xjs

I've ran Mobil 1 for the last 10 years. The article that I read and caused me to switch was based on a 200,000 mile LT1. Used for the life of the engine it was torn down and inspected. The engine showed no signs of wear and still maintained the factory tolerances. That was good enough for me. I also remember the Havoline commercial were the guy put 600 k on his car.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Marketing hype

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

I tried in my LT1n all the fluids got switched to RP.. the car was a weekend toy that stayed in the garage, I couldn't tell a difference.

But, I only run M1 in the Z.

IronOutlaw

iTrader: (4)

Ive been running Castrol Synthetic and havent blown up a motor yet. Now I run whatever Synthetic is on sale in the Trans am and run Oreilly or Walmart brand in the truck. Ive never understood how Royal Purple could add power, and never wanted to try due to the price.

While we are on the topic of B.S. and oil, what the hell does that ZMAX stuff supposed to do?

Nowhereman

Fram Xtend guard filters are pretty good, don't be afraid of em.
My LS1 used to burn a quart every 3k like clock work.
When I tried RP 0/40, changed the PCV out for the 2nd gen unit, the oil usage went to almost nothing.
Just sayin.

FAD2BLK93

I have run RP since i have had my T/A (186k) i run 4 qts 20-50 with one quart synthetic lucas additive and a K&N filter. Under my valve covers are super clean and i take this car to 6400 rpm on a regular basis with full confidence. I have RP in my trans and rear end as well, nothing scientific here but i picked up a few hundreths at the track, could be DA i dont know. I know i have no confidence in fram filters or Penzoil...i have seen some cars that have been clogged up from the perifen wax, or is this some kind of rumor i have heard for years about Penzoil. To each his own...use whatever gives u FULL confidence that ur car will survive at REDLINE.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

This whole post is one giant failure.

This is what happens when people base their motor oil decision on FOLK LORE rather than FACT.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Hey Fad2blk93, I'm glad you're having good luck with the stuff. It's good that you "do your own thing" however, it's no secret that the Lucas additive is just a very heavy oil and it allows foaming. I would honestly suggest you eliminate it from your otherwise working formula.

My transmission shop (which is a racing shop) uses RP trans fluid as they found it to be the least foaming.

There is a rather long but very logical post around here somewhere AGAINST using synthetic lubes in rear ends. I use the Lucas non-synthetic stuff in my rears.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You read my post looking for a way to criticize it and made assumptions.

I didn't say a thick 30wt or thin 40wt was THE criteria. What I was getting at was the oils that actually show good results tended to be some of the thicker ones when you saw the CST data on them.

I understand that a 10w-30 can be much thinner than a 0w-30.