Royal Purple: Not impressed. Show me dyno results.
11-28-2011, 08:07 PM
#81
Launching!
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Well I know I put synthetic gear oil, and a bottle of posi trac, or posi loc, whatever it is that autozone has, and is gm approved, in the rear in my s10 which has a posi out of a lt1 rear, so it's clutches, well after a few months it became a one wheel wonder. Drove around on it for a couple years, drained it out, put regular dyno oil in it, with the same posi additive, and now it posi's out hard. So I learned the hard way, synthetics in a clutch type posi is a big no no. On subject, I used rp in my car a couple times and never noticed a difference, so now it gets 10w30 val max life.
11-28-2011, 09:45 PM
#83
I was thinking about this today. All these high end motor oils should be laboratory tested at 220~240 degrees Fahrenheit-which is their real world operating conditions. This would really show which ones are better.
This is what makes the RP test a farce to me, they pour out room temperature oil. That's not how it's used!
This is what makes the RP test a farce to me, they pour out room temperature oil. That's not how it's used!
11-28-2011, 10:59 PM
#86
The way I see it is synthetic oil will always be better suited for engines, however for most RP is unnecessary. 9 dollars a quart is ridiculous. If you are strictly race that's a different story. But when I can get German Castrol and a K&N filter for under 40 bucks and RP is 60 alone for oil its not worth it. Even Mobil 1 is 45 with filter. Seeing what I've seen in all sorts of engines I will never use conventional. Hell even Valvolines engine guarantee they push says conventional will guarantee up to 150k, syn will go 300k
04-14-2012, 07:54 AM
#88
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I dunno. I've used Quaker State in all my cars, from wife's Equinox to my race car that spins to 7200rpm. **** Royal Purple and scAmsoil.
My '85 Camaro I used Quaker State from when I bought it with 23K miles until 210K miles. Never had one mechanical problem and it did not use oil.
My '85 Camaro I used Quaker State from when I bought it with 23K miles until 210K miles. Never had one mechanical problem and it did not use oil.
04-14-2012, 01:34 PM
#89
I was told to use Brad Penn 10w-30. My engine builder said he has never liked RP. He was building Aurora motors for indy cars that were turning a lot of rpm's and were ran on the dyno for hours under load to simulate race conditions. He said the bearings never looked good when he used RP after tearing the motors down.
04-14-2012, 05:32 PM
#93
My engine builder/machinist broke my new engine in on Joe Gibbs Racing breakin oil and he reccomended I stick with the JGR full syntetic which has the added zinc and phosporous to help keep the bearings and cam lobes alive. So that's what I'm going to stick with.
04-14-2012, 05:53 PM
#94
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The zinc and phosphorous for the cam is for older flat tappet cams, the lifters have to set up a good pattern of the cam lobe and not eat it up. But Zinc and Phos are good for all bearing surfaces as well.
04-15-2012, 01:38 PM
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Diesal oils have higher zinc concentrations than gas.... I run 15-40 rotella t in my 351w. It had a lifter ticking and now its smooth, runs a little better also???
Depending on clearances ill probably run it in the ta when I get it together...
Depending on clearances ill probably run it in the ta when I get it together...
