Royal Purple: Not impressed. Show me dyno results.
#1
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Since we're blocked from responding in the New Products section I'll post here. 1 bearing isn't going to impress me. Put it on a dyno on a small block that spins to 7000 rpm then get back to me. Then step it up another notch and go head to head with Redline oil and everyone else.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/misc.php?...5&prx_t=196326
https://ls1tech.com/forums/misc.php?...5&prx_t=196326
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RP is a joke, they STILL don't have an API label, and they claim it's because they use too much zinc in their product... not to mention their independant analysis was complete garbage... and their "EXPERT" in the videos doesn't even know how to pour oil out of the bottles. full of fail and HYPE.
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i was on the RP bandwagon for a while.... I think it's a little suspicious that, not only have i stopped burning a quart of oil every 500 miles since changing to another anonymous oil... but i also ran a few personal best just out of nowhere apparently (and no, not a DA improvement). So much for those extra ponies it releases.
Not saying it's a BAD oil... there's just better options and no one should get sucked into the marketing ploys.
Not saying it's a BAD oil... there's just better options and no one should get sucked into the marketing ploys.
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I used it like crazy back in the day when it was cheap. Oil was changed every 2k miles though and when I pulled the pan off to replace the gasket everything was super clean in there, as well as my heads. I am sure it cannot compete with other oils out there in longevity but for the short runs of RP usage I had it seemed to work alright. FWIW.
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I've never used it. I like mobil 1 syn. But horsepower claims from an oil change rank up there with electric superchargers and 20 dollar chips making 50 hp. I'm sure it'll keep you from burning bearings up, which is what I believe it was meant for. I would image you can gain more horsepower from running less oil in the pan removing drag on the crank from the oil.
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If anone really wants to see how an oil works in the real world Bobistheoilguy has a Used Oil Analysis section where forum members share their MEASURED results in a lot of different applications.
Different applications is important because an oil might be junk in one engine but good in another. I remember some time back M1 consistently put up bad iron numbers in LT1s but in the VW 1.8t was great. Different engine put different demands on oils.
Different applications is important because an oil might be junk in one engine but good in another. I remember some time back M1 consistently put up bad iron numbers in LT1s but in the VW 1.8t was great. Different engine put different demands on oils.
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If anone really wants to see how an oil works in the real world Bobistheoilguy has a Used Oil Analysis section where forum members share their MEASURED results in a lot of different applications.
Different applications is important because an oil might be junk in one engine but good in another. I remember some time back M1 consistently put up bad iron numbers in LT1s but in the VW 1.8t was great. Different engine put different demands on oils.
Different applications is important because an oil might be junk in one engine but good in another. I remember some time back M1 consistently put up bad iron numbers in LT1s but in the VW 1.8t was great. Different engine put different demands on oils.
Valvoline Durablend partial synthetic is what my shop recommended, and is what I have in my car for a long time.
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Puck, I haven't really spent much time on bobistheoilguy in awhile but when I did M1 was very thin and gave consistently high iron wear numbers but those facts could not touch it's standing as most popular and what people blindly believed was best. All people knew was it came in the Vettes and that was the only thing that mattered.
LT1s and LS1s show a preference for thick 30wt to thin 40wt oils and M 5w-30 barely qualified as a thin 30wt, formulas change over the years but I have never seen UOAs that suggest M1 in the Vette was anything but a marketing decision. It was adequate nothing more.
LT1s and LS1s show a preference for thick 30wt to thin 40wt oils and M 5w-30 barely qualified as a thin 30wt, formulas change over the years but I have never seen UOAs that suggest M1 in the Vette was anything but a marketing decision. It was adequate nothing more.
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speaking from my own experience on my car....i've always used 20/50 rp since i first installed my engine....last oil change i was strapped for cash and time so i put in 15/50 mobile 1 ,,,since then i've had lower pressure/ am adding oil now/ and my pan gasket is seaping....next oil change i'm going back to rp.....i cant say that its not hype just like all oils are but my 383 seems to like running on it alot better,,,or at least better then mobile 1
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speaking from my own experience on my car....i've always used 20/50 rp since i first installed my engine....last oil change i was strapped for cash and time so i put in 15/50 mobile 1 ,,,since then i've had lower pressure/ am adding oil now/ and my pan gasket is seaping....next oil change i'm going back to rp.....i cant say that its not hype just like all oils are but my 383 seems to like running on it alot better,,,or at least better then mobile 1
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Apparently the rings wouldn't have sealed properly... Regular oil first 1,000 then what ever.. Unless you used RP break in oil, Is how I understand things...