LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Sprucing up a 150k mile LT1

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Old 05-22-2012, 12:06 PM
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Default Sprucing up a 150k mile LT1

I have come seeking y'alls advice about what direction I should take with my 97 Ws6.

My T/A currently has 150k on the clock, of which I have put half of those miles on. Between the first owner and myself,
the car has never been raced, and always been well maintained; I have the entire maintenance history on the car from the day it rolled off the lot.
For modifications I have a 160 thermostat, skip shift eliminator, K&N drop in filter, and a SLP loudmouth2.
I have put new plugs and wires in it and the opti has been working just fine (knock on wood). Aside from the handful of very minor bolt on mods,
the car is virtually stock (stock clutch from the factory, stock suspension, etc.)

I don't want to go over the top with the car, basically my goal is to install some longtubes, update the suspension, shifter, and clutch, and finish it off with a dyno tune.
I am just afraid that doing those few things on a 150k mile motor might be a waste of time and money. So, I have been trying to write out my options.

Here are my thoughts,

1. Just do the mods and hope for the best

2. Get the LT1 rebuilt and do the mods

3. Go with a Jasper Performance Motor and do the mods.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, as I know that everyone on this forum would do things a little differently.

Thanks guys!
Old 05-22-2012, 12:18 PM
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It's still on the stock clutch at 150K?!?! That's pretty hard to do in these cars as they go through clutches quicker than most cars (I'm on #4 at 149k ) maybe save for a clutch upgrade. No need to rebuild the motor at this point....I would stick to bolt ons, suspension, or possibly cam it depending on how you use it and budget.
Old 05-22-2012, 12:26 PM
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Yea, believe it or not, still on the stock clutch. I'm just concerned about doing some mods and then something catastrophic happening. Not really looking at a cam. It's in a state of semi retirement, as I have been driving around a 4 cyl sedan to save some money on fuel. Ultimately I just want to use it for fun on nice days and want some mild performance boosts.
Old 05-22-2012, 12:53 PM
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My car has just over 100K and it's still on the factory clutch. Maybe the excessive clutch wear is originating from the driver's seat.
Old 05-22-2012, 12:59 PM
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Nice to another high mile lt1, I got a 95 with 158600 now and I just took the stock clutch out 2k miles ago and rebuilt the tranny because of one very minor issue. My motor still feels strong and good so if you have just taken care of the motor it will take care of you.

Some headers will really wake it up, I doubt something bad will happen unless you run low on oil or some careless mistake but it deffinately sounds like you take care of it.

I would do headers, tb bypass, and maybe a underive pulley kit but I heard it can lead to overcharging issues sometimes.

Nonetheless I'm subscribed!
Old 05-22-2012, 01:06 PM
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Or what I would do is build up your own lt1 on the side until your current one dies. Because if money isn't too big of a problem then you could build up a sweet street able lt1.
Old 05-22-2012, 01:14 PM
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If you really want to know the condition do a compression test on the engine. This should tell you the general condition of the rings and valves. Go from there.
Old 05-22-2012, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BTC
My car has just over 100K and it's still on the factory clutch. Maybe the excessive clutch wear is originating from the driver's seat.
Not really; I only wore out one...got one "bad" clutch and cam upgrade took out another one; not so much my driving style.

1. Factory clutch lasted 75K for me; bought it with 43k already.

2. Then "upgraded" in 1998 to RAM kevlar race clutch....terrible idea for DD, bitch to drive, lasted only 10K before it took a dump

3. New replacement OE clutch installed at 85K... (to 145K) lasted less than 1000 miles after cam install a couple years back Couldn't handle all that power LOL

4. Upgraded to RAM HD at 145k; running strong and holding up against H/C/I 383 now with no slippage


OP, get some 4.10 gears....lots of fun and don't really affect gas mileage with 6spd much at all.
Old 05-22-2012, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyWS6
I have come seeking y'alls advice about what direction I should take with my 97 Ws6.

My T/A currently has 150k on the clock, the car has never been raced,
Poor thing, must be bored. lol

I picked up my lt1 with 140k on it and did LTs, ory, ls1 lid, and tune. My car was NOT maintained well before I got it and the cars now at 170k and no major issues.
Old 05-22-2012, 06:53 PM
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Dont rebuild the motor, leave it alone, do the mods you talked about, beat the **** out of it till it blows, then rebuild it. 150k isnt much if its been maintained, there are guys on here spraying and running 150k shortblocks north of 6500 rpm.
Old 05-22-2012, 07:00 PM
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I always laugh at the comments of 150,000 miles isn't much. Like my one buddy that says his diesel '99 F250 that has 300,000 miles..."oh thats nothing". Yeah... 150,000 miles thats a lot bro. You should just replace the clutch since it's got so many miles on it -- get a Spec 2 they are very good and will last a long time. Put a heads/cam on it and spin it no higher than 6000RPM. 410rwhp will wake that thing up.

By the way, it may just be the way i drive...but I've been through 5 clutches in 30,000 miles, and 2 motors.
Old 05-22-2012, 07:36 PM
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I started modding mine at 190-200+k and it took it no problem. Motor had 230k before i pulled it to drop in my built motor. Old motor still ran very strong for what it was. If you just plan to do some boltons that wont hurt or do a thing to the motor at all. Just keep up with the maintenance and she'll be strong for a long time.

Good Basic Mods;

4.10 Gears (Must for 6spds... best mod you can do!)
RAM HDX (One up from a stock clutch and felt great and took alot of abuse and cheap)
Short Shifter (Stock is sloppy and can cause missed shifts)
Long Tube Headers & Y Pipe
3" Hiflow Catback
Tune!

Those along are some pretty substantial mods over stock and if you dont want to touch the motor thats what id do. Should net you around 300rwhp when tuned.

Good luck and have fun with it!
Old 05-22-2012, 08:27 PM
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173k miles on my car. Almost ready for a cam.
Old 05-25-2012, 09:28 PM
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I purchased mine at 72K. It was supercharged right until I bought it, and was not cared for. It had an Ebay CAI, torn elbow, open headers and untuned. I caught up on maintenance and slowly got it up to a proper set of full bolt ons.

Around 100k I cammed it and have spun it to 7K everyday since, with no problems, and I do beat on it pretty hard. Currently has around 158K.

These motors are very durable when taken care of. I would have no problems doing some modifications in your position if the motor was strong.

Plus rebuilds are kinda hit and miss, Ive seen great ones and Ive seen pretty damn bad ones, I only trust a handful of engine builders, so I do my stuff myself and check all my machinists work religiously.

About the clutch, most of my friends have Fbodys of which most are M6s. Im the only one to have to change a clutch before 90K because I lost a transmission. Factory clutch should go atleast 90K unless your slipping it for launching or living at the drag strip. A buddies factory LS1 clutch went over 100k and about another 5K after a H/C setup, and it never slipped badly with the H/c setup they only found it when datalogging.
Old 05-25-2012, 10:18 PM
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My 175k z28 is running like a fuggin top. I can't know if the previous owner rebuilt anything but I'm 90% sure the answer is no, just has a new clutch, brakes, ect the usual. Before I got it, it was 100% all stock unmolested. I'm changing that >D

I'm moddin the **** out of this car, and it runs like a MONSTER. Faster than every other LT1 I've raced w/ similar mods.

Mileage don't mean ****, if it runs great, it runs great

DO IT
Old 05-25-2012, 10:29 PM
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I had 141K on my motor when I finally rebuilt it. I ultimately pulled the motor after chasing down a blown rear main seal.

I would say evaluate the condition of the motor. Compression test and a good once over to check for leaks. If the motor is in good condition after testing, then mod in place. If not, then drive as is. Either way, the most optimal way to go about it IMO would be to build another LT1 on the side so that either way when the one in the car does crap the bed, you can drop the built one right in with minimal downtime.

One thing I would personally stay away from at your mileage is forced induction and nitrous. IMO forced induction generally require relatively invasive work and seals in LT1's seem to be finicky where if you start diving into the motor you'll start to notice leaks where there weren't before. Not because you had poor workmanship when putting it all back together, but just because things get moved around, don't seat perfectly etc.

Nitrous, well from what I have read, puts a ton of stress on the motor depending on how much you run and is generally better suited for rebuilt and reinforced motors.

That's my 2 cents.
Old 05-26-2012, 12:30 AM
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My 95 has 162000 miles on the original clutch and most of the prior owners were a bunch of troglodytes that did not take care of it. I think the only replaced stuff on it is radiator, water pump, thermostat about a year ago by the last owner, recently replaced the factory opti, ICM, and coil (ICM and Coil still work, just tried them before the opti and kept 'em as spares), needs a replacement passenger window motor.
Old 05-26-2012, 01:16 AM
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To everyone saying "wow that's a lot of miles" lol it's really not. The LT1 is absolutely die hard bullet proof and can take abuse like no other. If you don't beat the car all the time, they can go 300k miles easy and run strong the whole time. Even if you beat the hell out of them they last forever. I'm on my 4th LT1 car now with 175k miles and it runs better than many of the ultra-low mileage cars I've been in with my buddies.

LT1's I've had..
93 A4 z28, my first - 130k miles, ran like brand new. Regularly spanked my buddies 97.
96 Buick Roadmaster, 180k miles - luxury and beast mode power, ran absolutely silent.
93 A4 z28, my current drag car - 180k before 383 build, ran perfect just upgraded
97 M6 z28, current daily driver - 175k and is the best running LT1 I've owned yet, was bone stock until I got it, now it's a full bolt on, 410 geared beast running perfect

I don't care what anyone says, I would rather have a LT1 over a LS1 any day too. The low end power is so much more fun and they are just unbreakable engines when stock or mildly modded. LS1's feel like dog **** until you get revving.
Old 05-27-2012, 08:02 AM
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Nothing wrong w/ high mi's on a car aslong as its maintained. I just see it as being a provened car
Old 05-27-2012, 08:26 AM
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I just got done doing LT's/ory, tune, strano's/bilsteins, LCA's, PHB, torque arm, and a whole bunch of other stuff to my 150,000 mile LT1 . Don't let the miles bother you. I've never blown up an engine- I don't know how I haven't though lol. A friend of mine has a 95 Impala with around 270,000 miles and it runs great. I had 350,000 on my 94 Mustang and 287,000 on my 86 Monte Carlo when I pulled the original 305 out to put in the big block. Ran fine but could have used some new valve guides. Nothing like taking your 350,000 mile car to Gainesville raceway and making 10+ passes in a night lol. The guy that bought my mustang is still driving it around also with no problems


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