LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Le2 guys - le 232/240 results

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Old 12-09-2012, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Weird. What brand of opti are you using?
Originally Posted by SoxXpupPeT
Are you running acdelco/delphi optis with loctited rotor screws? What exactly is getting destroyed about them?
check my build thread, Been using Delco/Delphi ones... went on a whim and bought a chandler and another reman unit. All of them seem to let the rotor walk around and chew the cap up as well as the optical disc getting toasted in the process (debris maybe) IDK, but up until this point I am 0-4... not going to waste another dime on an optispark if the car just wants to spit them out.

Either carb swap, or 24x, still undecided... but trying to come to a conclusion as the opti isn't viable for me anymore.
Old 12-09-2012, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bowtienut
Are you running the stock PCM? If so, you DO understand that a goal of making the best peak power number is mutually exclusive with running the best at the strip or even the best powerband for any type of street/road encounter, right?
If staying with the stock PCM, I suggest asking LE for the best he can do with a powerpeak no higher than 6500 rpm, and leave the cam numbers up to him.
For my setup, I asked to center the powerband around 6400, and they nailed it perfectly, still putting down a respectable 425 SAE through an A4. And I use every bit of of the PCM rpm limit to extract the best ET's out of it.
Stock pcm for now, I was wanting to level off around 6500 anyway. I do understand as far as powerband goes, if his higher duration cams make level power to peak , then thats what I want . If the higher duration cams are erratic , spike , and perform on par with his smaller cams , then I'd rather go with the latter.
Old 12-09-2012, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by bowtienut
Oh yeah, forgot to comment on the Opti issues.
I hope I don't jinx myself, but I still waiting on my first Opti failure, spinning the stock Opti with loctited screws to 7000 every time at the track. I'm thinking 160-180 passes over the past 3 years.
Idle thought here: I'm running the complete unmolested GM stock rotating assembly. Dwayne's comment about harmonics got me thinking........most people spinning high rpm are doing it with various rebuild combo's, with who-knows-what kind of balancing or degree of overbalancing/underbalancing. Maybe GM knows something we don't ???
Impressive on the bottom end are you at least running aftermarket rod bolts?
Old 12-09-2012, 01:17 PM
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interesting idea on the hole in the snout of the cam not being quite perfect. Certainly would create potential problems.

I think the important conclusion here though is there is clear indications of a CAUSE that is not the opti too many of us running the opti successfully.

On another forum there was a guy who said he just pop riveted the rotor and turned them to 8500, IMO it is telling when guys can't keep it together on far milder street setups.
Old 12-09-2012, 01:25 PM
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we will see... hopefully my car just doesnt like optisparks.
Old 12-09-2012, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 1995 T/A
Stock pcm for now, I was wanting to level off around 6500 anyway. I do understand as far as powerband goes, if his higher duration cams make level power to peak , then thats what I want . If the higher duration cams are erratic , spike , and perform on par with his smaller cams , then I'd rather go with the latter.
As long as you have the valvetrain to support the cam, it won't be erratic or spikey. That's not the issue I was referring to. I don't know about the M6 guys, but with an A4, you'll have a tough time making a 232/240 hydraulic cam with stock PCM and good flowing heads work to full potential in a 350/355. Getting it even close to working right will require a somewhat unstreetable converter. The issue is rpm recovery after the shifts.
This all assumes those heads are on par with the ones I run. If they aren't, then they WILL require more cam duration to peak at a given rpm; below that peak however, power will suffer. so the reasoning still applies.

And yes, I DO run ARP rod bolts

Last edited by bowtienut; 12-09-2012 at 05:41 PM.
Old 12-09-2012, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by bowtienut
As long as you have the valvetrain to support the cam, it won't be erratic or spikey. That's not the issue I was referring to. I don't know about the M6 guys, but with an A4, you'll have a tough time making a 232/240 hydraulic cam with stock PCM and good flowing heads work to full potential in a 350/355. Getting it even close to working right will require a somewhat unstreetable converter. The issue is rpm recovery after the shifts.
This all assumes those heads are on par with the ones I run. If they aren't, then they WILL require more cam duration to peak at a given rpm; below that peak however, power will suffer. so the reasoning still applies.

And yes, I DO run ARP rod bolts
I am an m6 , but the info on the auto is helpful, as I am helping my friend build his 94T/A a4. We both will be using ARP rod bolts, he will be using a vig3200 stall. I don't have any streetabillity hangups, I've driven some stupid stuff before , but I'm leaning on my 280z for day to day use.
Old 12-10-2012, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by lt1slowz28
No clue, been working out bugs of the whole combo. Only got to 7,000 RPM twice now... both times destroyed opti's... looking for a RELIABLE solution.
Like the other guys are saying, something is wrong with your setup. I run an msd pro billet to 7k on the dash tach all the time and haven't had a hiccup.



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