If i could get a good clearanced and prepped 383 block for a good price, not completely. Just the added cost of doing that, and requiring a new crank kind up the cost a decent amount, and sort of kills my "budget build". Also would somewhat require bigger heads be used (not necessary, but would help keep the CR down a bit, unless i can find some huge dish pistons, again killing the budget)

So if not the gapless top rings, still total seal?

edit: Thoughts on 4 bolt splayed mains. I hear everyone recommending them as a must, but havent seen any actual evidence as to why, other than "was told to". Has anyone seen a 2 bolt main fail, or any evidence of such?

My current setup is running an all forged 10.3:1 static with new AFR eliminators, with forced induction, air to air intercooling and water meth on pump gas. I plan on running 15# on pumgas and 18#-20# on a mix of racegas and pumpgas with a tune from Frost. I'm also running the 24x ignition setup and I don't forsee any problems as long as the tune is on.

Question for you 97, did you go 4 bolt mains?

if your opening up the motor i would definately do the four bolt. IMO it is necessary on a D1 and definately the ati balancer as well. What is your HP goal i didnt catch that?

No HP goals, just looking for something a little more reliable on the bottom end. Its currently only running 3psi (i know i know, itll hold 7 for a bit but i daily the thing, and id like to have a replacement before i get risky with the stock setup) Id like to push it 7-12 on stockish heads without worry from the bottom end.

Do you think the c4 lt1 block with parallel 4 bolt mains will be enough for my application? I can get a block for around 200$, and the splayed 4 bolt main conversion from shops around here is about 700$. Just feel it may be overkill for the setup id be running.

Yes my block has splayed 4 bolt billet caps on the center three and a billet 2 bolt front cap, Howards Tracksmart 4340 forged crank, Howards 4340 forged 6" rods and forged pistons with Hellfire top/Total Seal second /Standard tension oil rings.

I think u would be fine with the 4 bolt block, i would just hate to have some one build a forged bottom end and cut corners on the main it doesnt make alot of sense. Have u addressed your fuel system yet....or the rear end, tranny all the other things that are gonna give you headaches at that 500rwhp mark. I also would definately invest in a meth kit as well very cheap insurance when your dealing with FI.........Its very hard to pick a place to stop spending.

Fueling currently has a single walbro 255 and 42 (46?) lb injectors. Ill probably upgrade to 60s at least and go to a dual 255 on hobbs if needed. Rear end and tranny have not been yet, but will be down the road.

The engine is going to be a multi-year build, im a student and away from home 8 months of the year so during the summer months it will be built. After 3 years ill have a pretty decent job, so that stuff will be addressed then!

Ohiocrank has forged cranks for around $400-450, don't have any personal experience with them but RamAir95 has their crank along with a bunch of other people and they swear by them. After that the only other costs are balancing (which you will have to do anyways) and clearancing which is easy enough you can do it yourself, I did.

Of course it all depends on what you want, but you have to decide if the money saved now, down the road, won't lead to regret long after the money has come and gone being spent on other things. I will say no one I've talked to regrets going bigger on displacement (outside of going too wild and running into clearancing issues) but the same can't be said of all of those who stuck with stock stroke. Now that I've had a 383 I can't imagine going "backwards" in displacement on any future builds.

I could be wrong on the pistons but I've heard others say the cost of custom pistons isn't much more, if at all, than off the shelf ones. Also static CR is a much smaller factor than people will make it out to be. Tune, dynamic cr, and fuel will be a larger determiner of what you can get away with.

Anyone know what the bob weights are on the lt1 crank, out of curiosity?

As with the 355 vs 383, im good sticking with the 355. I know the increase in CI would be great, but thats one of the things im trying to keep a limit on (you know, where do you draw the line) and i have no quarrels with stock stroke/stock crank. I suppose if i found an outrageous deal on a 3.75 crank i wouldnt hesitate to go 383. Its just another thing, ya know?