BMR rack & pinion vs Stock replacement
 

Well today I made another dumbass move while in a rush and spun out and hit a curb. Knocked the whole alignment out (Camber, Caster, and Toe) and busted the whole rack & pinion pivot, busted passenger boot & seal. Leaking fluid. Never could get the thing to align straight at work, and its the Original Rack & pinion and time to upgrade or at least refresh anyways.

What is the difference in the stock one and the $700 BMR one? Worth it or all I am paying is the name and fancy looks?

for the $700 one you need THEIR k-member (so more money spent on parts). you will be spending $800 if you want it to fit your stock one. I am not sure if you noticed but both are manual steering BTW so do you really want that? mine is the one that requires their k-member but neither have been installed yet and I didn't pay that r-tarded amount as I found someone who abandoned their project and got the parts on the cheap.

I don't know if rackdoctor still is in business but they used to do manual conversions cheap.

Can anyone confirm what suspension I have? Supposedly there are different ones for Z28’s. I want to make sure I have my information right before I order the wrong one. For a 93 Camaro Z28 would mine be a f41 and fe2?

Anyone? Kind of need to know ASAP.

I've got a BMR front end... K-member and Arms... No complaints. It's one helluva lot easier getting to the engine from underneath.

I would advise talking to BMR b4 ya order, if you have any doubts on part #s.

look in your glove box for the RPO code

My rack doctor feels a tad bit better than a stock looped rack. My midwest chassis one was tits until i bent the inner tie rods on the rack. Not sure if it bend from dd'ing the car or using my stock rims and the hit the inner fender well.

Ok thanks steve

The rack doctor is where I was looking at. They look like pretty good quality.

No I’m just getting the stock replacement. Just was curious about the differences. Thanks though.

BTW for the life of me I can’t figure out why my car is sitting higher (rear) after the accident. Took the rear wheels off the see if something was knocked out of place causing it to sit higher but couldn’t find anything. Anyone have any ideas after hitting a curb that causes the rear end to sit about 1” higher? Stock shocks, eibach lowering springs. Would cutting the top of the springs bring the rear end back down to the height I want it to be? Bilstein shocks I’m going with over the stock old OEM ones. Im hoping the same eibach springs I’m running will hold up fine.

Did you measure an actual raise in height, or are you just eyeballing it?

mainly eyeballing it. its fairly obvious because most of my co-workers thought I lifted the rear end up for the track. but my judgement of height aint far off from an inch. maybe 3/4ths”. As far as the actual height that it was before the accident, I couldn’t tell you exactly. It was roughly around 1.5” lower than stock height. Don’t know how the hell a curb raises a rear end of a car to basically stock height on aftermarket eibach lowering springs that came with the car when I bought it. I checked the pinion angle and it is completely straight. I went to look last night again at the springs and the passenger spring was not turned in the same position as the driver’s rear. So I turned the spring to match the other side, dropped the car back down from the jack and it was even higher, then that is when I jacked the car back up, took the wheel off, and turned the spring right back where it was. It lowered the car to the same height the curb made it out to be. So now I’m at the point where I’m clueless to wether the spring it bent at the top or if its something else?! :(

Panhar bar looks fine, sway bar looks ok, shocks don’t look bent. There has to be something I’m missing

FE2 option is 2-1/4 turns lock to lock.

F41 option is 2-3/4 turns lock to lock.

Either unit is available as rebuilt from ACDelco for $212.79 at Rock Auto, plus $100.00 core charge.

Pep Boys & AutoZone also have rebuilt units under different brands for less money-but I'd trust the ACDelco unit more.

Ok thanks guys for confirming my suspension and the help so far. I ordered the FE2 on the 26th. Should be here soon. But back to my question if anyone has any ideas as to what I should look for as far as my rear end of the car being raised after hitting a curb. This isn’t the suspension section, but maybe I should make a post over in that section if no one isn’t too sure.

What rack did you end up with ? Autozone or rackdoctor ? I just ordered a rackdoctor one and I hope I made a good decision.

Verify the turns lock to lock before you put the new one in the car.

I don't know if you're getting it from Autozone, but they gave me one for "FE2" and it turned out to be the other type.

Seemed like I had to turn it for days to get the car to turn.....of course I didn't discover this until I drove it after installing it in the car.....and they had my old one....

So I pulled it out of the car as fast as I could. Got my money and old one back(very slow leak....replacement unit as well....).

I plan on getting another one soon and would be interested to see how yours turns out.

I think I'm going to return my rackdoctor one once it comes in. I scored a 2002 LS1 model for free, that doesn't leak. I'm just going to put that in for now! Besides, I sent two separate emails to rackdoctor and none of them got answered in the last 6 days. I don't like companies that don't answer customer service requests :)

Got mine from rack doctor and no complaints. Good quality and easy installation. Only took a good 30 mins to put in. Happy with the deal.

Btw don't return until you tried the one you ordered. Don't expect emails from them. Just call them. They'll answer right away.

I hear ya. I'll call them.

BTW... there's no way to do this without a sawzall to cut off that bolt is there ? I can't find my sawzall anymore! LOL