Criticize the setup I'm considering (long post)
 

Looking for some input on a setup I'm throwing around in the back of my mind.

I want a setup that makes around 550rwhp, drives like stock, is quiet, gets decent fuel mileage on the freeway, and is reliable enough to drive on a nearly daily basis in the warm weather months. The car will be 100% a street car and will only go to the track for shits and giggles if it ever happens. I have a brand new unassembled boost-ready 383 shortblock from an abandoned project that is fully machined and ready to go together. 3.75" Cola forged crank, JE -31cc dished pistons, 6" 4340 I-beam rods (forget the brand, but they look identical to Lunati Pro-Mod rods). The block is half-filled and has billet 4-bolt mains as well as the other usual machining for an engine designed to see a lot of power.


So here are my thoughts. Even though that shortblock is probably overkill for that power level, I already have everything so I might as well get it assembled and use it. If anything, the fact that it's overkill will hopefully provide the reliability aspect I'm looking for. Now, I'm thinking my best route to get what I want is to do a simple turbo setup. I've never done a turbo setup before. I don't want to spend a lot of additional money on this setup.

Here's the setup I'm considering:

-Aforementioned 383 shortblock
-Stock heads with valve job and appropriate valve springs. Probably would have them milled to get around a 52cc chamber for 9.0-9.5 compression ratio depending on what my deck height is.
-Very small turbo cam, probably something with a 21x/22x intake duration and mild lift for reliability. Want stock manners, smooth idle, and close to stock powerband.
-Cast manifold turbo setup from LT1Boost (not sure if he's still in business, can make my own if necessary). Might consider the modified BBK headers if it's worth it/cost-effective.
-SMALL turbo. Only need ~550rwhp and would rather use a smaller turbo so that I have zero lag. Remember, 100% street car. Would like some suggestions on turbos to consider.
-used ATI twin-intercooler kit OR small air/water intercooler with heat exchanger. It's a TA... I don't want to cut my bumper and want good airflow to the radiator since the engine has a half-fill. Given my power goals I think either of these options will be fine.
-exclusively 93 octane pump gas. No meth unless absolutely necessary.


Also, the car is a T56, so minimal lag and good low-end torque are important to me.


Before anyone asks, the rest of the car is up to the task. Have a fully-built T56 with a viper mainshaft, 12-bolt rear end with 4.11 gears and Eaton HD posi, kevlar clutch, Racetronix fuel pump w/ hotwire, full suspension upgrades, drag radials, 4" over-the-axle exhaust, 24x PCM conversion.


So, is this plan completely hare-brained? I know it's a lot of cubes for stock heads, but don't think it'll hold me back considering it's boosted. At the most, I'd consider getting a cheap port job on them like an LE1, or maybe buying as-cast Trickflow heads for slightly better flow and the thicker deck. Please remember, this is 100% a street car and drivability, timidness, and reliability are the primary concerns. Power goals won't grow. I know from experience that I want a car that's capable of running high 120's trap speeds (wouldn't complain if it could do 130) in a full-weight car. I figure 550rwhp is about what I need to do this. I fully realize that even this would be a handful on the street and don't really need any more power that would do nothing but smoke the tires.

Personally, I think you can hit your goal by changing just a few things in your plan.

First get the trick flow heads. The thicker deck will help a ton in terms of reliability. I'd also have them ported just to make sure you have the air moving into the engine as efficient as possible.

A small turbo on a T3 frame will give you the spool time you're looking for, but may not flow enough on the high side. I'd look at a t3/t4 hybrid frame. Probably around the 66mm wheel size. A 76mm wheel would even work well.

Aside from that the only real upgrade to your exsisting car will be a larger fuel pump/twin pump assembly.

Those are the only two things I would change and 550rwhp should be easily attainable. It'll be fun to drive too.

I agree with duh and I will add some additional insight. I would do either LE1 or TFS heads (LE is cheaper), I would do a T4 67mm kinda similar to the turbo that comes with the STS package, and I would shoot for a tad bit more on the duration on the cam.

LT boost is not taking any orders right now cause I tried to get parts from him last month.

Your compression is wonderful. I wish mine were around their. My build started off as a N/A build but I switched over (check my sig). Plus with the 24x Conversion will make tuning a breeze. Good luck with the build bro!

If you want zero lag and only 550rwhp then I would go procharger.

DD's dont get much nicer all around then a procharged V8 :).

A blower was my first thought as I've had one before, and frankly I'm still leaning towards it for simplicity's sake since RealQuick doesn't seem to be building kits anymore.

Main reason I am considering staying away from centrifugals is the whine. That noise stays ringing in your ears for an hour after you drive the damn thing. Plus it draws more attention to the car which I don't want. Turbos are nice and quiet plus they quiet down the exhaust which is desirable for me.

Another thing too, I've heard from several people to get a larger fuel pump. I thought everyone and their brother used to make 550rwhp off of a single walbro pump with a boost-a-pump?

Get the Racetronix walbro with the hotwire kit, just upgrading the pump and not giving it the extra juice to run it properly is not a good idea....they are good for 700hp.

Already have a Racetronix single pump setup and an upgraded power wire to the pump.

IMHO, you'd be better off with dual pumps, just so they don't work as hard to produce the required fuel to the engine. The single pump will have to work harder to produce the same volume. The 67mm wheel will be great for DD, and probably keep whistle minimal. Make sure the waste gate dumps back into the exhaust as opposed to atmosphere and that will keep noise down too. The upgraded cyl heads will make getting to your power goal easier. And the little but more duration will help a ton. Maybe try giving Kenny Duttweiler a call and ask about cam specs. He's built some of the highest hp turbo engines around. He could definitely spec you something that will do exactly what you want. I still think you're on the right track to making very reliable power.

My magnafuel 625 is rated to 1500hp, and it runs out of steam on my engine.

Boosted motors need either a shit ton of volume with huge sticks, or a decent pump able to handle the flow at high pressure with decent sized sticks.

I would personally run the two 255's or 340's in tank. Could you get away with one? Most likely, but it ain't my motor to melt slugs in.

Yeah, I know they're hungry. I'm not resisting adding a second pump, just always heard that the single Racetronix kit with a BAP was good enough for this power level with boost. I don't want to damage the motor either. Admittedly, I didn't know you could run two in-tank pumps and keep the stock bucket.

Procharger offers quieter gears for an upcharge, so it does not have to "whine". Although most people, including me, love the whine. :cheers:

Yeah, I know, only problem is if I bought a blower it would be a used kit. Not sure if they'll upgrade a blower to the quieter gears. Even still, you can still hear it. Not saying I won't do it, but the whine is definitely the biggest con for me. I like the whine on a weekend warrior, but for a daily driver not so much.

Oh they would certainly upgrade the gears, lol, but it would cost plenty im sure.