new motor beak in
Uh ok back to the subject
The way I broke in my supercharged motor and now turbo, Cranked it up, let it reach temp and checked for any leaks, Changed the oil, then on the Dyno she went, did a few accell and decell for the rings to set and With app, 6 pulls of tuning, off to the track and pedal to the metal. Have done this for years even with no problems...But that's just me..
The way I broke in my supercharged motor and now turbo, Cranked it up, let it reach temp and checked for any leaks, Changed the oil, then on the Dyno she went, did a few accell and decell for the rings to set and With app, 6 pulls of tuning, off to the track and pedal to the metal. Have done this for years even with no problems...But that's just me.. Uh ok back to the subject The way I broke in my supercharged motor and now turbo, Cranked it up, let it reach temp and checked for any leaks, Changed the oil, then on the Dyno she went, did a few accell and decell for the rings to set and With app, 6 pulls of tuning, off to the track and pedal to the metal. Have done this for years even with no problems...But that's just me..
The way I broke in my supercharged motor and now turbo, Cranked it up, let it reach temp and checked for any leaks, Changed the oil, then on the Dyno she went, did a few accell and decell for the rings to set and With app, 6 pulls of tuning, off to the track and pedal to the metal. Have done this for years even with no problems...But that's just me..I was advised to drive the car for about 50 miles going no higher than 2k rpm accels and decels, change the oil and cut open the filter to see how much metal shavings are in the filter. Then drive it for a couple hundred miles before I put it into boost. So basically 300 miles before I can even think about nailing it.
Im pretty sure its a million different methods that could work during a break in.
Thats a little nerve wrecking break in method IMO. But if it works then why change it.
I was advised to drive the car for about 50 miles going no higher than 2k rpm accels and decels, change the oil and cut open the filter to see how much metal shavings are in the filter. Then drive it for a couple hundred miles before I put it into boost. So basically 300 miles before I can even think about nailing it.
Im pretty sure its a million different methods that could work during a break in.
I was advised to drive the car for about 50 miles going no higher than 2k rpm accels and decels, change the oil and cut open the filter to see how much metal shavings are in the filter. Then drive it for a couple hundred miles before I put it into boost. So basically 300 miles before I can even think about nailing it.
Im pretty sure its a million different methods that could work during a break in.
I start mine check for leaks and noises for a few minutes, then hit the road. I run it in a hilly section so I get acceleration and deceleration events to seat the rings well. The whole time consists of about 30 minutes stopping and starting, each time a little more throttle than the last but no WOT pulls. On the last pull before I take it back I do a short WOT hit. Change oil, let it cool completely,(usually overnight) then start beating it. I had less than 100 miles on current motor before I hit the track. I've been told this method by so many people that actually build high end motors over the years. There is no need to run a roller motor at low RPM's for so many minutes.
Last edited by Mystery Bird; Apr 2, 2014 at 10:41 AM.
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rings seating and rings seating properly are two very different things. The rings need the pressure of full load to push the rings against the cylinder walls tightly to get a good fit. I have always stuck a heater element in the radiator to heat everything up to temp(yes it takes a while). Then I take it out and hammer the crap out of it. 1- it gives the rings full pressure tons of times to fully seat 2- If it is gonna break I want it to break now and not later when the customer gets it. I have confident in my building skills that I think taking it easy is just lack of confidence.
I have confidence in mine too. Its just that Im 26 and this is my first build. And with FI I think the method would be a tad bit different for me. Just my opinion. Just from all the input on this thread so far their is almost 8 different methods in how to break in a motor and everyone method seem to have worked decently so far......
But at the same time a lot of his analysis makes sense.
**** I dont know.......LOL
Im up in the air on this one.............
The moral of the story is, talk to any credible engine builder and they will tell you to run the engine like a scald *** ape to break it in. It's all about the rings in a roller motor.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
FWIW
link, then click "LT1 set up guide" for engine break-in procedure described by Golen
https://www.golenengineservice.com/i...-tech-articles
link, then click "LT1 set up guide" for engine break-in procedure described by Golen
https://www.golenengineservice.com/i...-tech-articles
FWIW
link, then click "LT1 set up guide" for engine break-in procedure described by Golen
https://www.golenengineservice.com/i...-tech-articles
link, then click "LT1 set up guide" for engine break-in procedure described by Golen
https://www.golenengineservice.com/i...-tech-articles
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
Two different points/issues.
It is not the holy bible, just a list of procedure they, as engine builders advise.
Basically
1. Prime motor first before starting (oil)
2. Run motor at 2k rpm for 20 min
3. Drive (first confirm you have no detonation by “lugging” it just for a moment)
4. Accel/decal 10 times starting 35mph increasing to 50 mph
Basically what many have said in one form or another. My $02 is do this before “beating” on the motor…YMMV
I would change oil/filter after step 2. There will be a bunch of assembly lube and some “debris” in the oil. Then at 500 mi, then every 3k mi.
You do not need to change your breakin in oil after a simple run to fill fluids or immediately after your ring breakin. You should change the filter and cut the filter open and check for anything unusual. This gives you the opportunity to see what has made it to the filter and the condition of the oil. after a 250 to 500 miles change oil and filter. I use Brad Penn Green oil. Use breakin oil for at least 2 oil changes. The second oil change you should change filters at least 2 times over 3000 miles at 1500 mile intervals. You can change and cut filters when ever you want. The filter tells the story of the engine with out having to dissemble it.