chopperdave90

Haynes says 22 inch pounds and the 67 an 80 degrees on the head bolts and Mr chilton says 22 foot pounds. I can't imagine it being 22 foot pounds. What's up....What's it supposed to be?

transbird95

iTrader: (4)

Its not inch pounds. My old haynes said the same thing fpr the left head but when i read the page for the right side it said ft lbs. This reminds me of a painful couple of weeks many years ago while doing head gaskets for the first time on my car lol good luck.

chopperdave90

Yeah it's a whole new work working on these cars. Definitely a learning experience. Just not like what I've been doing for the 20 some years. Torque to yield and computers and way too many wires on these things. Can't believe how many places you can read different torque specs. I'm finding about half and half. Must be a lot of people reading these haynes manuals. I figured 22 inch pounds couldn't be right. 22 foot pounds is hard to get accurate without over turning. It'd have to get a 3 inch torque wrench to achieve 22 inch pounds accurately. Thanks for the reply.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

What kind of engine are you working on? An LT-1?


In the 1996 factory shop manual, for the LT-1 engine, the procedure calls for a "first pass", in sequence, of 22 ft./lbs. The "second pass", again in rotation, is 67* of rotation for the short bolts and 80* of rotation for the "medium" and "long" bolts.

chopperdave90

It's a 97 lt1. I torqued the bolts last night to 22 foot pounds and came out today and broke out the haynes manual to get the torque sequence and happened to see it said 22 inch pounds...not foot pounds. Googled it and finding some say 22 inch lbs and some say 22 ft lbs. Big difference. At least the torque angles are consistent.

transbird95

iTrader: (4)

Yeah i made the mistake of listening to the book thinking it couldnt be a typo..... Got to do it twice!! This was in the early 2000's though and after being a auto tech now for almost ten years it has always been a funny story to tell.

shbox

It's 22 lb. ft. Do you have a torque/angle meter to do the degree movements?

chopperdave90

Yeah I have the torque angle gauge and actually visited your site and seen that you had 22 ft lbs. You seem to know a lot about these cars and almost sent ya a pm. But I remembered setting that on your site. Good site by the way. Very informative and been pretty helpful in this new LT1 adventure I'm on.

chopperdave90

I'd love to pick your brain (shbox) a little about some issues I may come across with this car with removing Egr and no after the car o2 sensors. What all can come off with egr and air pump. There is a solenoid that the vacuum plugs into from the egr. Can that be removed and leave the plug unhooked? And also there is something mounted on the coil/icm that appears to be related to air or egr. What's the best way to get this tuned to remove the egr and the back o2 sensors?

chopperdave90

And will I have to do something because I put headers on the car? I rebuilt the motor but just stock, no internal mods. No external mods with the exception to headers and removal of egr and AIR. 97 z28 6 speed

chopperdave90

Lots of opinions out there....What's yours?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

There's only ONE "opinion".....what the factory shop manual states, which is what "shbox" and I posted. If you're using ARP bolts, then it's another story.

shbox

Everything can come off that you want to come off. Yes, you will need a tune to defeat the trouble codes caused by removal. How you want to go about that is a subjective matter (mail order, local tuner, buy your own tuning solution and do it yourself).

A tune would be helpful to get the most out of your mods.

My opinion was already posted.

F0x Slaughter

Not to be rude but 22in lbs for head bolts?

Now my valve cover bolts on the my Saturn were torqued to 79in lbs and they were only like 7mm bolts.

chopperdave90

I kinda got off that subject and was asking his opinion on something different. Thanks for the replies guys. Motor is assembled and hopefully drop the body on on the next couple days.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Re-read the post that "shbox" posted, which is a copy from the factory shop manual! The first pass is 22 ft/lbs, NOT in/lbs, to seat the head squarely to the block. The second pass is for the final torque.....

F0x Slaughter

I understand that. I was saying in a nice way, you seriously think the heads would ever be torqued to 22in lbs?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

It appears that some people actually believe it. Gotta' make you wonder!!

chopperdave90

No ****! That was my concern. When you Google this topic, I seen a lot saying 22 inch pounds. Think I could do that with my fingers.

F0x Slaughter

24in lbs would be 2ft lbs obviously so you probably could do 22in lbs with your fingers.

I didn't use a torque wrench the first time on the valve cover bolts and snapped like 4 of them off flush in the head.