Building a new shortblock, what parts do you suggest?
#1
Building a new shortblock, what parts do you suggest?
Hey folks, I just picked up a new lt1 shortblock that will be a start to my turbo build.
I have thought about doing a basic rebuild:
.030 over
New bearings throughout
Forged pistons (best bang for the buck brand???)
ARP rod and mains
OR
Going all out on it and not finishing the build for a few years:
.030 over
New bearings throughout
Forged pistons
Forged rods
Forged crank? Stocker good to 600hp??
ARP2000s
Splayed 4 bolt? (at what power level do I need this?)
Basically Im looking to see what the stock block will handle under boost. I plan on keeping it 5-7lbs of boost.
A well known turbo company will be coming out with a turbo kit for our ole' lt1s soon, I don't want to say more than I know...
My goal is 500rwhp.
Also, what size cam is suggested? I know a stock lt1 would be okay but I'm not going to throw an old used cam in this motor. Ill probably get ahold of LE and see what he recommends.
What brand pistons, bearings, rings, connecting rods do you guys suggest? Links would be great!
Let me know any suggestions! Thanks in advance!!!
I have thought about doing a basic rebuild:
.030 over
New bearings throughout
Forged pistons (best bang for the buck brand???)
ARP rod and mains
OR
Going all out on it and not finishing the build for a few years:
.030 over
New bearings throughout
Forged pistons
Forged rods
Forged crank? Stocker good to 600hp??
ARP2000s
Splayed 4 bolt? (at what power level do I need this?)
Basically Im looking to see what the stock block will handle under boost. I plan on keeping it 5-7lbs of boost.
A well known turbo company will be coming out with a turbo kit for our ole' lt1s soon, I don't want to say more than I know...
My goal is 500rwhp.
Also, what size cam is suggested? I know a stock lt1 would be okay but I'm not going to throw an old used cam in this motor. Ill probably get ahold of LE and see what he recommends.
What brand pistons, bearings, rings, connecting rods do you guys suggest? Links would be great!
Let me know any suggestions! Thanks in advance!!!
#2
Man-Crush Warning
iTrader: (1)
Are you being honest with yourself when you say 500whp?
That is a dumb hp level to shoot for with 5-7psi, might as well have stayed NA...
That being said, stock crank, compstar rods, JE pistons and max ported stock heads.. should be fine for whatever you can throw at it. I assume HSP or Tick is making a kit?
That is a dumb hp level to shoot for with 5-7psi, might as well have stayed NA...
That being said, stock crank, compstar rods, JE pistons and max ported stock heads.. should be fine for whatever you can throw at it. I assume HSP or Tick is making a kit?
#3
Are you being honest with yourself when you say 500whp?
That is a dumb hp level to shoot for with 5-7psi, might as well have stayed NA...
That being said, stock crank, compstar rods, JE pistons and max ported stock heads.. should be fine for whatever you can throw at it. I assume HSP or Tick is making a kit?
That is a dumb hp level to shoot for with 5-7psi, might as well have stayed NA...
That being said, stock crank, compstar rods, JE pistons and max ported stock heads.. should be fine for whatever you can throw at it. I assume HSP or Tick is making a kit?
I'm trying to be different. Everyone has a NA setup and I'm looking for something new. I have never built a boosted motor.
I mean Id love to break 600 but I don't know much about the bottom ends and what they can and cant hold even being built.
Just a noob trying to gain some info
EDIT:
Splayed 4 bolt?
Do I buy them straight from Callies?
http://www.callies.com/compstar/connecting-rods/h-beam/
Last edited by mcalus; 06-20-2014 at 08:22 PM.
#6
Man-Crush Warning
iTrader: (1)
Stock block, stock crank, compstar rods, JE pistons, stock heads.
Keep timing low and just feed it boost. If you keep a small T4 turbo, like a tc76 or something it should make great power off the line but not too much peak power.
ARP everything, and if you can swing it, do 4 bolt mains. Otherwise, keep the RPM down and boost it more.
The biggest hurdle you will have to face is tuning the thing.
Keep timing low and just feed it boost. If you keep a small T4 turbo, like a tc76 or something it should make great power off the line but not too much peak power.
ARP everything, and if you can swing it, do 4 bolt mains. Otherwise, keep the RPM down and boost it more.
The biggest hurdle you will have to face is tuning the thing.
#7
Stock block, stock crank, compstar rods, JE pistons, stock heads.
Keep timing low and just feed it boost. If you keep a small T4 turbo, like a tc76 or something it should make great power off the line but not too much peak power.
ARP everything, and if you can swing it, do 4 bolt mains. Otherwise, keep the RPM down and boost it more.
The biggest hurdle you will have to face is tuning the thing.
Keep timing low and just feed it boost. If you keep a small T4 turbo, like a tc76 or something it should make great power off the line but not too much peak power.
ARP everything, and if you can swing it, do 4 bolt mains. Otherwise, keep the RPM down and boost it more.
The biggest hurdle you will have to face is tuning the thing.
I plan on doing the 24x conversion.
Edit, what do you mean by stock block? Would it be okay to get it bored .030 over? Or are you staying stock block vs dart or something?
Thanks for the info btw!!!
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#9
Punch out the stock block .030 and be set.
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/Au...ty_23_inv.aspx
IDK what kind of CR you are shooting for, or rod length etc.
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/Au...ty_23_inv.aspx
IDK what kind of CR you are shooting for, or rod length etc.
#12
TECH Regular
Stock crank and block will easily take you past 600whp in this application on pump fuel. Get a set of decent heads, ARP bolts and quality rods and bearings, and get your SCR around 9:1 and feed it 10 lbs.
#13
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its not necessarily a dumb goal. 500 rwhp na will not be very friendly in a daily drive situation. but if you run a small cam turbo combination it would be a ***** cat with plenty of power on tap when you want it.
#14
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Hey folks, I just picked up a new lt1 shortblock that will be a start to my turbo build.
I have thought about doing a basic rebuild:
.030 over
New bearings throughout
Forged pistons (best bang for the buck brand???)
ARP rod and mains
OR
Going all out on it and not finishing the build for a few years:
.030 over
New bearings throughout
Forged pistons
Forged rods
Forged crank? Stocker good to 600hp??
ARP2000s
Splayed 4 bolt? (at what power level do I need this?)
Basically Im looking to see what the stock block will handle under boost. I plan on keeping it 5-7lbs of boost.
A well known turbo company will be coming out with a turbo kit for our ole' lt1s soon, I don't want to say more than I know...
My goal is 500rwhp.
Also, what size cam is suggested? I know a stock lt1 would be okay but I'm not going to throw an old used cam in this motor. Ill probably get ahold of LE and see what he recommends.
What brand pistons, bearings, rings, connecting rods do you guys suggest? Links would be great!
Let me know any suggestions! Thanks in advance!!!
I have thought about doing a basic rebuild:
.030 over
New bearings throughout
Forged pistons (best bang for the buck brand???)
ARP rod and mains
OR
Going all out on it and not finishing the build for a few years:
.030 over
New bearings throughout
Forged pistons
Forged rods
Forged crank? Stocker good to 600hp??
ARP2000s
Splayed 4 bolt? (at what power level do I need this?)
Basically Im looking to see what the stock block will handle under boost. I plan on keeping it 5-7lbs of boost.
A well known turbo company will be coming out with a turbo kit for our ole' lt1s soon, I don't want to say more than I know...
My goal is 500rwhp.
Also, what size cam is suggested? I know a stock lt1 would be okay but I'm not going to throw an old used cam in this motor. Ill probably get ahold of LE and see what he recommends.
What brand pistons, bearings, rings, connecting rods do you guys suggest? Links would be great!
Let me know any suggestions! Thanks in advance!!!
block prep wise. i would go splayed mains. and go std bore if possible. you want to leave as much meat as you can.
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
4 bolt will become a must if you plan on boosting it with a moderate sized cam. I don't think a dinky cam is going to get you to your power goal so an aftermarket cam is a must. High power and RPM = cap walk. You can either have a 2 bolt converted to a 4 bolt (splayed/straight) or pick up a Vette block with factory 4 bolt caps(straight).
Converted block
2 bolt donor (readily available and cheap w/low miles), aftermarket 4 bolt main caps (billet steel ~$200), ARP hardware ($80), conversion cost ($350~ where I live)
Factory 4 bolt
Vette donor (few and far between, can be expensive w/low miles), ARP hardware ($80), line hone cost ($200 where I live)
Factory main caps (both 2 and 4 bolt) are made of grey iron and can develop stress cracks from too much cylinder pressure and RPM. Straight caps will also not clamp as well as splayed ones. When you consider that the converted 2 bolt could have billet + splayed caps for not that much more it's a no brainer. Especially if there's a chance of making more power down the road (the addiction is real).
Converted block
2 bolt donor (readily available and cheap w/low miles), aftermarket 4 bolt main caps (billet steel ~$200), ARP hardware ($80), conversion cost ($350~ where I live)
Factory 4 bolt
Vette donor (few and far between, can be expensive w/low miles), ARP hardware ($80), line hone cost ($200 where I live)
Factory main caps (both 2 and 4 bolt) are made of grey iron and can develop stress cracks from too much cylinder pressure and RPM. Straight caps will also not clamp as well as splayed ones. When you consider that the converted 2 bolt could have billet + splayed caps for not that much more it's a no brainer. Especially if there's a chance of making more power down the road (the addiction is real).
#16
not sure what your budge is but best bang for the buck. get a probe 383 kit. go all forged because i know better than most once you get it running good if 7 psi is good then 20 psi is better.
block prep wise. i would go splayed mains. and go std bore if possible. you want to leave as much meat as you can.
block prep wise. i would go splayed mains. and go std bore if possible. you want to leave as much meat as you can.
Where can I get the splayed 4 bolt caps?
#17
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Let your machinist pick the ones he likes.
In like 12+ years on multiple LT1 based forums I am not aware of any overpowered and broken stock cranks.
On rods chances are whomever told you to stay 5.7 did so to keep the piston tall and the top ring down farther, with a 3.48 stroke that really is not a concern, if going a 3.875 stroke then it is a big concern. A 6" rod leaves plenty of piston height and can make for a lighter piston and less rod stress at high rpm.
If genuinely staying mellow on the boost ARP studs on stock mains can do the trick, one of the Impala guys runs that with 500rwhp NA in a mid 10second 3800lbs car 383 turning all the pcm will let it which would likely be harder on the mains than your 3.48 stoke and likely lower rpm.
In like 12+ years on multiple LT1 based forums I am not aware of any overpowered and broken stock cranks.
On rods chances are whomever told you to stay 5.7 did so to keep the piston tall and the top ring down farther, with a 3.48 stroke that really is not a concern, if going a 3.875 stroke then it is a big concern. A 6" rod leaves plenty of piston height and can make for a lighter piston and less rod stress at high rpm.
If genuinely staying mellow on the boost ARP studs on stock mains can do the trick, one of the Impala guys runs that with 500rwhp NA in a mid 10second 3800lbs car 383 turning all the pcm will let it which would likely be harder on the mains than your 3.48 stoke and likely lower rpm.