Formula313

In drive with foot on the brake sometimes my oil pressure goes in the red. I would have to put it in neutral or park for it to go up. & with the valve covers off at idle, the oil doesn't shoot out. It just poors down. Is all of this normal?

(No Leaks)

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Drop pan, install high pressure white spring in oil pump, and bandaid worn bearings.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Oil pump is best lubed part in the engine and really really reliable.

I would verify with a mechanical gauge first and if genuinely low loose bearings are the number 1 suspect.

Formula313

So I'm guessing my symptoms are NOT normal, because nobody has yet to say that they are. ??

BALLSS

low oil pressure is not "normal"...but you first need to confirm your oil pressure gauge is in fact giving valid readings which is why it was suggested you hook up a mechanical gauge to confirm OP

if it is still low....than worn bearings are the most likely suspect

cardo0

Are u watching the rpm when the oil press goes red? What is the rpm? Not 850 i bet.
Oil flow under the vlv cover is from the hyd lifter - not the oil pump. Oil squirts out the p-rod fairly random and not rpm dependent though more frequently with higher rpm. Just dont wear a white shirt when u adj the vlvs.

What weight oil are u using? 5-30? Synthetic? Try a heavier weight oil like 10-30.

But check oil press with a mech gauge also.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

I did not have the same symptoms as you, but I knew something was up with my pump which prompted my last rebuild. Oil pressure was fine at idle and normal driving, but at WOT pressure would start to drop.

Debris had made it through the pump at some point, the teeth on the gears in the pump had imprinting from the damage.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

10w-30 is NOT necessarily thicker than 5w-30 at operating temps. They are both 30weight which means they fall into a RANGE and it is entirely possible for a 10w-30 to be thinner than 5w-30 or even 0w-30.
If you want to go thicker look up the CST@100 of what you have and start looking at other oils to find one actually thicker or just try a 5w or 10w-40.

NewOrleansLT1

I once had a 93' Silverado with 180,000 miles. The truck had low oil pressure. I replaced the oil pressure sensor and the oil pressure went back to normal.

Formula313

I never payed too much attention to my rpm when at a red light. But at idle its for sure right under 1k rpm like is supposed to be. When I accelerate the pressure goes go up. I'm running 10w 30 btw. & I already replaced the oil pressure switch. I was thinking about putting Lucas in it to thicken the oil some, because just like the guy said ^^^ I noticed at operating temperature. That's when it does it.

fleetmgr

Do not put additives in your oil. For one, they aren't necessary...the oil already has everything in it required to do it's job. For two, some of them can actually cause damage.

Before you do anything else, get a real gauge on the engine to confirm what you're seeing.

Doing anything at all with your oil is a very misguided bandaid. Putting a higher viscosity oil in it can mask your potential problem just long enough for serious damage to occur, like spinning a bearing. At the moment, your potential problem is worn bearings. Easy to fix, and relatively cheap as it may not require machine work. Anything more, and the need for (expensive) machine work is guaranteed.

01TARAWS6

What psi is your car at highway speeds say 70mph and 2000 rpms? I thought mine seemed a little low at 40 psi at the above pace.

At idle mine is around 25. I am running Mobil 1 10W-30

kozeehezheya

I knew something was up with my pump which prompted my last rebuild.

kris72079

iTrader: (7)

I'm scratching my head here...it is WELL DISCUSSED AND DOCUMENTED that the lt1 is notorious for idling at operating temperature deep into the discomfort zone in stock configuration. Did I miss something, or did that paradox just un-happen?

Formula313

Sae-30 oil fixed my problem. Allot of people don't know this. In a lt1 5w30 is best -0°- 70°F. When 80°+ you have to use Sae30. It stays 30 weight through all temperatures. It was only available in Pennzoil though.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

When I put this Craigslist motor in my car I broke my oil pressure sensor and got one from advance and its always read low, like drops onto the peg in red at warm idle and check gages light comes on, yet no ticking, knocking, 12,000 miles and 200+ 6300rpm track passes, towing a jetski 500 miles, towing a truck bed 500 miles, still alive. These don't squirt oil like sbcs, they just trickle it across the rockers, I'd verify with a mechanical first, or get a new Delco sensor. I blame mine on the sensor, and don't care if I blow a $400 motor.

shbox

It may make you feel better, but you aren't getting any more protection from running a straight weight oil than a multi-viscosity oil. Your underlying problem is most likely bearing wear (common). Multi-vis oils are spec'd by the manufacturer - not straight weight oil. They are much better for wear protection at startup at low temperature, but offer the same protection at higher temps. The high temp viscosity rating of multi-vis motor oil is tested at 210° - not 70°.

sleeperZ96BT

iTrader: (2)

What is an oil pressure switch? I had an oil pressure sensor get loose and eventually fall off and the whole thing started with lower than normal oil pressure readings. New sensor and we were good to go.

But, like several have said, if you haven't properly test it versus relying on a reading form the dash.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

That's weird, my car always made a big f'n mess while adjusting rockers with valve covers off.

Hawk 640

No one has mentioned that the lt1 has priority oiling (oil directed to bearings, rods, and pistons first, then to rockers and oil sender)! The old sbc oiled top of motor first and oil ran back down to lubricate pistons etc., that is why they had higher pressure at idle. I've owned 3 lt1s and all read 15-20 psi oil pressure fully warmed up in gear at 500-550 rpm, even my 95 that I bought brand new!