LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

intake swap

Old 07-25-2014, 02:58 PM
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Default intake swap

i'm in the process off swapping the intake and need to know what is the best way to clean the old rtv and gasket material?

When sealing it back up i will be using permatex the right stuff..whats the best process with this?
Old 07-25-2014, 03:35 PM
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To clean it use a brass brush then clean with alcohol or brake cleaner, do this on both surfaces. To apply, just put a nice thick bead on the front and rear surface of the block. Install intake and the sealant should squeeze out. The gap is about 1/8" or so, so you want that bead of RTV pretty thick before you install the intake so it can squeeze out. After you torque the intake down let sit to dry for at least an hour before running the engine.
Old 07-25-2014, 06:57 PM
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Also make sure you drop it straight down where it will mount, any sliding around of the intake will remove whatever rtv bead you created. As far as curing time, I would go as far to say as 24 hours but that my personal preference.
Old 07-25-2014, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by myltwon
Also make sure you drop it straight down where it will mount, any sliding around of the intake will remove whatever rtv bead you created. As far as curing time, I would go as far to say as 24 hours but that my personal preference.
Yeah that's the safe bet. RTV is fully cured when you can no longer smell it. Adding heat (about 200°F) can reduce cure times from 24 hrs to less than 2. I let mine air dry for about 15-45 minutes typically then let the heat finish it off. But the safest bet is to let it sit for 24hrs in ambient conditions, I'm impatient.
Old 07-25-2014, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hrcslam
After you torque the intake down let sit to dry for at least an hour before running the engine.
I've had more leaks start this way than not. Oil is intrusive enough, along with engine vacuum, to weaken a bead that hasn't fully cured. As already stated, because the bead is so thick the best thing to do is to let it sit for a full day before starting.
Old 07-26-2014, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by myltwon
Also make sure you drop it straight down where it will mount, any sliding around of the intake will remove whatever rtv bead you created. As far as curing time, I would go as far to say as 24 hours but that my personal preference.
To make that part of the job easier, I have 2 long allen screws, that I install in the front 2 bolt holes on the left side of the engine, before I drop the manifold in place. They act as "guide pins", so I get the manifold in place properly, the first time. After the manifold is set, I can unscrew them, and install the regular bolts.
Old 07-27-2014, 12:48 AM
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The hardest part is setting it down straight while clearing the fitting for the oil pressure sending unit. I usually have someone help me set it down slowly because it's a pain working under the cowl.
Old 07-27-2014, 01:19 AM
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If the EGR valve is still equipped, it makes a nice handle. If not, the studs suffice.
Old 07-27-2014, 09:06 AM
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Why are you swapping the intake?
Old 07-27-2014, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Why are you swapping the intake?
If I had to take a guess, I'd say it's because the damned thing is leaking oil at the rear, where the block, manifold, and EGR tube all intersect.....and the heat causes the RTV to break down and leak oil.
Old 07-27-2014, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
If I had to take a guess, I'd say it's because the damned thing is leaking oil at the rear, where the block, manifold, and EGR tube all intersect.....and the heat causes the RTV to break down and leak oil.

..but you don't swap to another intake for that...
Old 07-27-2014, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by shbox

..but you don't swap to another intake for that...
True.....maybe it's just a question of terminology.
Old 07-27-2014, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by shbox

..but you don't swap to another intake for that...
exactly my thought............
Old 07-29-2014, 08:47 PM
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Sorry for late reply but him switching to Carb intake


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