3.8redbird

iTrader: (3)

What are the masses using to hold higher horsepower with a LT1 T56?

Currently have a ram clutch to learn to drive but my new motor goes in next year and wont last long. Looking for 750-800 rwhp with a supercharger.

Thanks for the help.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Street twin.

I am not making tons of power, but it is supposed to hold insane amounts of power supposedly. I do have a street twin in my car even though I'm not making a lot of power.

96LT1355Z28

iTrader: (2)

I'm a fan of the Spec 3+, lots of holding power and good manners on the street.

Jazz-LT1

iTrader: (2)

The car will drive differently with the new clutch, you'll be learning all over again. If you're drag racing you might want to switch to a slush box unless you have deep pockets. The trans and rear won't live long under that kind of load.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

I have a Spec 3+. It's aggressive but still much smoother than some of the puck clutches I've driven. Just don't glaze the thing.

Blackbirdws6

iTrader: (7)

McLeod street twin here. Drives great and seems to hold my power level just fine. I had a Spec 3+ when I was h/c/n2o (~480rwhp) and it held well but driveability wasn't all that great.

3.8redbird

iTrader: (3)

Switched from a A4 to a T56 since I roadrace and Autox.

Car is light to help the car live at 30-3100lbs.

The spec and the mcleod seem to be the favorites.

I will be swapping the clutch in at the same time the new motor goes in (at 450-500hp during boostless breakin.)

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Why would you aim north of 700rwhp for road coarse or autoX?

3.8redbird

iTrader: (3)

Wont be on the coarse. When I throw on the pulley I have now that is around where I think it will be. If I am right I will pulley up some to get closer to 700rwhp. Autox will be a fun smoke show regardless and this car will be street driven often.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

If you have the funds, spring for the mcleod. I've seen some spec horror stories on there over the years, you know what clutch I never seem to hear bad things about? The street twin.

Agreed on avoiding puck clutches, I had a six puck in my car which I adapted and got used to but after going to the street twin I don't think I would ever go back!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If you really have the funds to build a 700rwhp car then the street twin is the only clutch you should be buying.

BALLSS

OP

for a LT1 "twin" disc clutch...get the McLeod Street Twin. I paid $1240 through JEGS but shop around. They list for around $1600. Their Wilwood MC that comes with it & FW is a nice piece. MC is larger 13/16" bore for the twin

McLeod can also make more aggressive discs other than the organic disc

3.8redbird

iTrader: (3)

Will have to see if the MC will work on my setup. This is all in a Gen 1 sbc c4 vette.

I never said price was an issue. Just wanted something to hold up. Hell If I wanted to pulley down this engine, with bigger injectors, could break 1000rwhp but I know when to much is to much and longevity goes to hell.

BALLSS

The Wilwood unit is longer at the base than a stock LT1 MC. My car was never made with a stick and I did what I needed to "sheet metal adjustments" and all worked out. If your MC mounts on the firewall like a F-body LT1 than the base will just stick out more. the distance between mounting face and end of rod is the same length as stock..other than the fact that rod is adjustable to allow more slave travel.
bottom line is you need a twin disc clutch and the McLeod is the one.

what you may run into with the McLeod twin is if adjusting the MC rod to length to get full clutch disengagement you may start to buzz the PP with clutch fork before it clutch fully disengages. If so you need to cut .100-.125 off the base of the "T" pivot bolt stud of the form. Some have to some don't. I had to.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

I wonder if that is why my used McLeod had a dent in the pressure plate face(could have also been from shipping)? Clutch still functions properly in my case and I wasn't complaining at $1000 shipped for the setup including the hydraulics.

I installed the clutch years ago and the damaged area has never gotten worse.

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

$1k with hydraulics isn't a bad deal. But the 3+ can be had for $620 which leaves a ton of money for go fast parts (and SFI crap).

3.8redbird

iTrader: (3)

Where did the lot of you get the kit? I cannot find it with a MC just the standard PP, fly, and clutch for 1190.

BALLSS

a "twin" disc clutch will give twice the holding power (twice the friction surface) of any single disc clutch even if it has more aggressive friction material like a 3+. The twin will also have way better street manners

FWIW several of the new high HP cars now come with twin disc clutches from factory...like the Hellcat

There are sponsors on this site claiming "low" $ so check them out. FWIW I got my kit at JEGS shipped free for $1250. Billet FW, clutch kit and the larger bore 13/16" bore MC. Kit # 64022-00-07 if you have a "neutral" aka "internal" balanced motor. They have another part # for the stock LT1 (external balanced) motor which is the same kit but with the weight screwed onto FW. The kit lists for $1646 but you can get it for less from various vendors

I also found dealing with McLeod customer service to be excellent

pic of part # for 13/16 MC included in kit

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Well yeah but 3+ is definitely adequate for what it is.

OP, you need to take all of the SFI requirements into consideration if you haven't yet. The bellhousings and billet flywheels aren't cheap (and the bell has to be re-certified every so often). You're not going to get anywhere near the full potential of the car running around on the street. What's the point of building it if you can't use it?

3.8redbird

iTrader: (3)

Enjoyment.