350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

I got a gm optispark seal for my 96 lt1. Long story short I cant get that seal into the timing cover for nothing! Timing cover is on the engine.

I tried tapping the edges with a hammer, I tried a 2X4 across the seal and hammered it and nothing. One side will start to go in then the otherside pops out. Only thing I can think of is maybe a machine shop can smooth the outside of the seal by a few thousands thickness so it will hammer into the timing cover? Any idea?

Seems like everything I try do with this car murphy's law kicks me in the a$$.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Hrm... measure the outside dia. of the seal and the inside dia. of the timing cover to see what the interference is. It's a genuine GM seal or Autozone "GM" seal? I've always had luck with tapping around the perimeter of the seal with a rubber mallet.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

It is a genuine gm part I had ordered from the chevy dealership, the part came straight from Detroit. My WP drive seal is from GM too, I read that they are the best way to go. I do need to get a rubber mallet! The old seal took half an hour to get out, it was really in there. Of course I am a novice mechanic so that doesn't help the situation! I'm lucky I didn't hammer my fingers off and start the garage on fire. Funny I work on my 4 stroke dirt bike and everything always goes smooth as butter? Must be the LT1 curse. I sure do love the car when its on the road though.

BALLSS

the seal should have a red coating (sealer) on the outer edges so don't machine the seal down.

just use light taps in a circular motion to start it and then lay a 2x4 over it and use a bigger hammer to drive in flush

fwiw I have used the FelPro TC kit several times for these and the other TC seals and have had no issues in fitment/install

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Rent/borrow a seal driver set from the auto parts store, it's easy to drive the seal in square then.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Going to try the rubber mallet, if that doesn't work I will try that seal installer, didn't know they made such a thing. I will probably need the seal installer!

Then I will worry about the WP drive seal, fun! fun! I am going to try the sharpie marker trick.

Then I hope I can start the engine with just the optispark bolted on to make sure it is installed correctly before bolting back on the crank pulley and water pump? I'm hoping the next time I have to do this job it will come a lot easier.

shbox

Round seals can be frustrating at times. The trick is getting it perfectly flat and square to the hole to drive it in. That is the what the seal installer aids in doing, but I have never needed one. Tapping around the edge has to be done in very small increments, because if you bend the seal, it is ruined. Once you get the seal started and even all the way around, you can then use a block of wood to evenly drive it on.

BALLSS

all of us who work on our own cars have gone through the "learning curve" so don't feel bad you are having difficulty. This forum is here to share 411

Once you get the hang of it you will find installing the Opti seal to be simple. A seal install tool may help and places like Harbor Freight have cheap sets although like Shbox says I have never used one on TC seals

The WP drive seal install is tricky in the area of preventing the inner lip from folding back when the seal is pushed onto the WP drive shaft. A "tool" be it ones you can buy on internet or a homemade version work. Like the marker body noted you first slide the seal on it then put the tool over the wp drive spline then use a deep socket to "tap" it into place

if you FU the seal it will start leaking immediately so if you find that drip of oil from the lower front of engine after the swap...you need to replace the wp drive seal again

starting up the car with just Opti on is fine if you want to confirm it is on right. You may throw a CEL if the MAF and other sensors are not plugged in but you can clear them by disconnecting the battery after if that happens or use a code scan tool to clear the CEL

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

UPDATE!!! Car has 200 miles on it since getting put back together. No leaks!!!!

I used a super sharpie cap and sanded it smooth then lightly heated the wp drive seal with a blow dryer then worked it onto the sharpie cap. I got it onto the wp drive shaft without folding it over the first time! I also got the opti seal in with a real rubber mallet not a plastic mallet that they claim to be rubber lol. I got the opti lined up on the camshaft correctly the first time too. Started the car at that point and it ran perfect. Proceeded to put the wp on and drivebelt and let it sit for 24hrs so the sealant could cure and off I went.

Thanks for all the help and pointers Lt1 GODS!!! I will feel more confident the next time I have to tear into the dreaded water pump and opti now!

shbox

Good, positive experience.

smitty2919

Always a good feeling knowing you did it yourself and now the experience you went through is invaluable on any future mechanic work pertaining to seals etc.