Blowing Fuse #5 PCM
#1
Blowing Fuse #5 PCM
Starting a new thread since I got the car to crank and start, but now after running for maybe 10 seconds it blows the PCM fuse in the drivers compartment. I put a 10 amp fuse to do trouble shooting and it pops when the key is just on, I pulled all of the fuses under the hood and replaced them one at at time and when I got to the Horn fuse, it popped the PCM fuse in the drivers fuse box, No get this, the horn still worked with the fuse pulled?
Car is a 95 Z
Car is a 95 Z
#2
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Have you pulled the fuse panel out to see if any wires are touching/damaged on the back of the fuse panel? I am looking at an old Haynes manual and I see a PCM fuse 8 that is a 10 amp which is always hot in the under hood fuse panel. The other fuse is #5 in the fuse block panel and that one is 15 amp and is only hot in the run, bulb test, or start condition. The only other thing I am seeing on the circuit is the MAF sensor (yellow wire). The pink is the main hot 12v. Try a 15 amp in that circuit and see if it still blows. It might just be an undersized fuse in that circuit.
#3
If the horn is working with the fuse pulled its gotta be shorted somewhere either at the fuse box or down the harness.
Whatever it is shorted to is whats popping your PCM fuse as it completes the horn circuit.
Whatever it is shorted to is whats popping your PCM fuse as it completes the horn circuit.
#4
Have you pulled the fuse panel out to see if any wires are touching/damaged on the back of the fuse panel? I am looking at an old Haynes manual and I see a PCM fuse 8 that is a 10 amp which is always hot in the under hood fuse panel. The other fuse is #5 in the fuse block panel and that one is 15 amp and is only hot in the run, bulb test, or start condition. The only other thing I am seeing on the circuit is the MAF sensor (yellow wire). The pink is the main hot 12v. Try a 15 amp in that circuit and see if it still blows. It might just be an undersized fuse in that circuit.