Need help in Pittsburgh. Best trade of all time(bluit lt1 Camaro for a cr250)
08-14-2015, 02:29 AM
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Need help in Pittsburgh. Best trade of all time(bluit lt1 Camaro for a cr250) This is my first post and its a long one ,List of mods and an email from the tuner is down below.. Ok so here is the story I traded a an 03cr250 two stroke for this car. Let's just say it was a nice ******* cr I miss my baby but I couldnt pass this up. But I have a lot of questions . What do I do next. I have plans of a Innovate motorsports lc1 , I currently have a no name used wide band O2 sencor to install from a swap meet but should I get the Innovate motorsports , and I wanna Swap to a speed density or 3bar map maf sencor then get a real dyno tune👍. I really don't know a whole lot I know how to work on **** im no expert but I have tools and time. So what do I change, I can buy a doner Camaro roller that has no rust and Perfect purple paint for 1000 but my car has no rust it's just rough. I was also thinking about doing a stage two t56 bluid from http://www.texasdrivetrainperformanc...build-packages. So for anyone that didn't get it someone esle bluit this car so please don't knock me for anything he did. I have one free re tune available from lt1 tuning.com I plan on doing all the little things he mentions like the throttle body mods and the things I said and anything yins say. Yins is a pittsburgh term. If anyone's from the pittsburgh area hmu 4129996214 im interested in parts and possible help and cruising . although im capable of doing most things myself. So the main part he fucked up on I think is the he didn't use arp rods bolts because you have to reside the rods. So it's a stock bottom,Roller motor with a cam and pp throttle body and im going to add my dual tube intake made my slp and mods to my free ram air mod to work with it and the stock elbow but I was considing a diff elbow because it had the part hanging off of it to connect to the smog witch is gone but the stupid intake the guy who bluit the car put on has an elbow that is junk on so do I get a diff Elbow and use the dual tube or get a diff intake all together . I know this is going to be the fastest car ever but idc . I will buy an msd air force intake if it will work with my set up is that possible I have money from an accident I got in and access to parts from auto anything at a discounted price threw a person I know so I want to make the best of what I have kinda on a buget but Im wiling to spend money on things that are importing and trying to cheap on stuff that isn't. I wanna change anything that is hurting and add things that will help . What are you recommendations. I will answer any questions you have .
So I see the msd Air Force works on lt1 motor . But will it work with my set up
I have plans on suspetion work too but nuthin has been started yet.
Currently have trac bars to install and poly bushings are already installed on the torqre arm. I wanna get a bmr torque arm and the straino/Elbeck spring and strut package from straino or auto anything. Are just poly bushings in the front enough with the springs and struts.
What tail pipes should I run, currently only have kooks knock off stainless headers to kooks knock off off road y. There no emissions at all on the car and no ac just to mention. Considering ebay, flowmaster 40, Borla, kooks,slp or corsa.
I'm going to post a bunch of pics
email from lt1tuning.com
Your PCM has been successfully retuned and has been shipped back
You indicated you are using only one knock sensor, so be sure only one is connected on the block, otherwise the PCM will set an error code and constantly retard the timing.
VATS has been disabled in the PCM, as you requested.
The AIR pump has been disabled, so be sure you have blocked off any old holes on the exhaust manifolds/headers
Since you requested EGR to be disabled, I highly recommend physically removing both the EGR valve and exhaust pipe from the rear of the intake manifold, and installing custom block-off plates in their place. You can usually find these on eBay for $30-$40, but may be able to get the GM part equivalents for the LT4 engine, as it did not come with EGR from the factory. Be certain that the holes on the intake manifold are properly and completely sealed or else you will have a vacuum lea
If your oxygen sensors are old (30-40k+ miles) or your vehicle has been running rich for awhile, please consider replacing the sensors with AC/Delco, Delphi or Denso brands (do NOT use Bosch, they do not work properly in LT1s and some TPIs). New/working O2 sensors can make a big difference in overall drivability and MPG. Please also make sure you do not have any exhaust leaks anywhere before or within a couple of feet after the O2 sensors, as this will fool the PCM into thinking the engine is running lean and it will over-compensate and it will run way too rich.
If you are using aftermarket roller rockers or headers, you will need to install an LT4 knock module (GM part # 16214681) in your PCM, if you haven't yet. This prevents the PCM from detecting false knock from the extra noise, and if you do not use it, the engine will likely not run to its full potential due to timing retard from the false knock.
You will often get better idle quality with an aftermarket cam by closing the throttle body stop screw as far as possible without the throttle blades sticking when closed. This takes better advantage of the idle air passageways in the TB/intake/heads, as well as the IAC valve. Once you adjust the screw, you will probably need to reset the TPS, so that it outputs between 0.55V-0.66V when closed, with the ignition on and engine off (slot the TPS screw holes to adjust it by turning). You would then need to use a scan-tool of some type to check the IAC counts at idle; they should be in the 30-40 range. If they are higher, open the TB blades further again, or drill out the idle air hole in the TB very slightly, until they get into that 30-40 range at idle. If they are much lower, close the TB blades even more if possible.
Because you have an aftermarket throttle body, I highly recommend visiting the following two links, which detail mods you can do to your TB to make the engine run better at idle, coast-down and tip-in:
http://members.***.net/chipsbyal/page/idle/index.html
http://para.noid.org/~lj/PCM%20Tutor...litBLMinfo.htm
The tune is set for 36.00# Bosch #0280155811 fuel injectors. If you ever change them to a different flow rate and/or brand/model, retune
Verify that your fuel pressure is set to your chosen value of 50.00 psi when measured with no vacuum (you can disconnect the hose to the fuel pressure regulator to simulate no vacuum, or measure it with ignition on and engine off). If the fuel pressure is set higher, your vehicle will run too rich with my tune; if it's set lower, it will run too lean. The PCM can only accommodate to a point for those kinds of errors, not to mention the impact it will have on performance and MPG, so be sure it is set correctly to get the most out of my tune.
I encourage you to clean your MAF sensor. Use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to swab (gently!) the filaments of the MAF sensor; you should see some dirt on the swab afterward. This will improve the drivability and MPG of your vehicle. Please also do not remove the screen and/or port the MAF, as this will throw off the calibration
Please be sure your vehicle is in good mechanical shape. Consider checking/replacing your spark plugs (don't use platinum tipped with nitrous or boost) and gap (stock LT1 is 0.050"), plug wires, coil and coil wire, opti-spark (AC/Delco or MSD preferred) and opti-spark harness, fuel filter, ignition module, and knock sensor (on the engine block), if they have been in use for awhile. This can solve lots of the common problems on LT1s. It is vital that your knock sensor(s) are in good shape and torqued to the factory spec, as they will cause false knock and timing retard (kills power/MPG) when they are old/corroded/pitted and/or over-tightened.
Also, I encourage you to run a can of Sea Foam (found at NAPA or AutoZone)
Remember, you also have one free retune available (you pay shipping both ways), if you find you'd like any settings changed with your current setup (does not apply to changes you make to the current vehicle setup). If you have any questions or feedback about the tune, just reply to this email! I want you to be totally satisfied with this tune!
Sincerely,
J. Solomon Kostelnik
http://www.lt1pcmtuning.com/
list of mods
Freshly rebuilt 95 block.
Racetronix fuel delivery kit.
Scorpion roller rockers.
Trick flow push rods.
Comp roller lifters.
Comp 306 cam.
Lt4 knock sensor
Proffestional products 58mm throttle body.
36lbs. Injectors.
Msd wires.
Msd ignition. Vented optispark and coil.
Kooks stainless headers and off-road y pipe.
Aluminum Ported heads, ported and matched intake and bored for 58mm tb.
Progear forged timing gears, high tensile strength double Roller timing chain.
Cometic head gaskets and other gaskets
Canton valve covers.
Racetronix adjustable fuel pressure regulater.
Stage 3 clutch.
Pcm tuned by lt1tuning.com
Mezner Electric water pump.
Ferrea racing valves.
Valve springs good up to.600 lift.
ARP head studs and main studs.
Poly motor and torque arm mounts.
Speed pro sealed power molly rings.
Royal purple oil in engine and rear end.
Short throw shifter
racetronix hotwire kit
walboro 300 . Fuel pump.
Clevite h-series coated main and rod bearings all plastigauged to tight specs.
Crank polished and checked.
block hot tanked and painted. new freeze plugs.
Block decked, heads decked.
Ac delete
Egr delete
Smog pump delete
No emissions at all.
Micky Thomson et street radials
---Extra parts(not installed yet)
Extra stage 1 Velpro clutch.(new)
Trac bars with poly bushings(new).
Slp dual tube intake(new).
Underdrive pulley(new).
Rear end seal(new)
No name wideband O2 sensor from swap meet. Claims it will work with my car
Two step
So I see the msd Air Force works on lt1 motor . But will it work with my set up
I have plans on suspetion work too but nuthin has been started yet.
Currently have trac bars to install and poly bushings are already installed on the torqre arm. I wanna get a bmr torque arm and the straino/Elbeck spring and strut package from straino or auto anything. Are just poly bushings in the front enough with the springs and struts.
What tail pipes should I run, currently only have kooks knock off stainless headers to kooks knock off off road y. There no emissions at all on the car and no ac just to mention. Considering ebay, flowmaster 40, Borla, kooks,slp or corsa.
I'm going to post a bunch of pics
email from lt1tuning.com
Your PCM has been successfully retuned and has been shipped back
You indicated you are using only one knock sensor, so be sure only one is connected on the block, otherwise the PCM will set an error code and constantly retard the timing.
VATS has been disabled in the PCM, as you requested.
The AIR pump has been disabled, so be sure you have blocked off any old holes on the exhaust manifolds/headers
Since you requested EGR to be disabled, I highly recommend physically removing both the EGR valve and exhaust pipe from the rear of the intake manifold, and installing custom block-off plates in their place. You can usually find these on eBay for $30-$40, but may be able to get the GM part equivalents for the LT4 engine, as it did not come with EGR from the factory. Be certain that the holes on the intake manifold are properly and completely sealed or else you will have a vacuum lea
If your oxygen sensors are old (30-40k+ miles) or your vehicle has been running rich for awhile, please consider replacing the sensors with AC/Delco, Delphi or Denso brands (do NOT use Bosch, they do not work properly in LT1s and some TPIs). New/working O2 sensors can make a big difference in overall drivability and MPG. Please also make sure you do not have any exhaust leaks anywhere before or within a couple of feet after the O2 sensors, as this will fool the PCM into thinking the engine is running lean and it will over-compensate and it will run way too rich.
If you are using aftermarket roller rockers or headers, you will need to install an LT4 knock module (GM part # 16214681) in your PCM, if you haven't yet. This prevents the PCM from detecting false knock from the extra noise, and if you do not use it, the engine will likely not run to its full potential due to timing retard from the false knock.
You will often get better idle quality with an aftermarket cam by closing the throttle body stop screw as far as possible without the throttle blades sticking when closed. This takes better advantage of the idle air passageways in the TB/intake/heads, as well as the IAC valve. Once you adjust the screw, you will probably need to reset the TPS, so that it outputs between 0.55V-0.66V when closed, with the ignition on and engine off (slot the TPS screw holes to adjust it by turning). You would then need to use a scan-tool of some type to check the IAC counts at idle; they should be in the 30-40 range. If they are higher, open the TB blades further again, or drill out the idle air hole in the TB very slightly, until they get into that 30-40 range at idle. If they are much lower, close the TB blades even more if possible.
Because you have an aftermarket throttle body, I highly recommend visiting the following two links, which detail mods you can do to your TB to make the engine run better at idle, coast-down and tip-in:
http://members.***.net/chipsbyal/page/idle/index.html
http://para.noid.org/~lj/PCM%20Tutor...litBLMinfo.htm
The tune is set for 36.00# Bosch #0280155811 fuel injectors. If you ever change them to a different flow rate and/or brand/model, retune
Verify that your fuel pressure is set to your chosen value of 50.00 psi when measured with no vacuum (you can disconnect the hose to the fuel pressure regulator to simulate no vacuum, or measure it with ignition on and engine off). If the fuel pressure is set higher, your vehicle will run too rich with my tune; if it's set lower, it will run too lean. The PCM can only accommodate to a point for those kinds of errors, not to mention the impact it will have on performance and MPG, so be sure it is set correctly to get the most out of my tune.
I encourage you to clean your MAF sensor. Use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to swab (gently!) the filaments of the MAF sensor; you should see some dirt on the swab afterward. This will improve the drivability and MPG of your vehicle. Please also do not remove the screen and/or port the MAF, as this will throw off the calibration
Please be sure your vehicle is in good mechanical shape. Consider checking/replacing your spark plugs (don't use platinum tipped with nitrous or boost) and gap (stock LT1 is 0.050"), plug wires, coil and coil wire, opti-spark (AC/Delco or MSD preferred) and opti-spark harness, fuel filter, ignition module, and knock sensor (on the engine block), if they have been in use for awhile. This can solve lots of the common problems on LT1s. It is vital that your knock sensor(s) are in good shape and torqued to the factory spec, as they will cause false knock and timing retard (kills power/MPG) when they are old/corroded/pitted and/or over-tightened.
Also, I encourage you to run a can of Sea Foam (found at NAPA or AutoZone)
Remember, you also have one free retune available (you pay shipping both ways), if you find you'd like any settings changed with your current setup (does not apply to changes you make to the current vehicle setup). If you have any questions or feedback about the tune, just reply to this email! I want you to be totally satisfied with this tune!
Sincerely,
J. Solomon Kostelnik
http://www.lt1pcmtuning.com/
list of mods
Freshly rebuilt 95 block.
Racetronix fuel delivery kit.
Scorpion roller rockers.
Trick flow push rods.
Comp roller lifters.
Comp 306 cam.
Lt4 knock sensor
Proffestional products 58mm throttle body.
36lbs. Injectors.
Msd wires.
Msd ignition. Vented optispark and coil.
Kooks stainless headers and off-road y pipe.
Aluminum Ported heads, ported and matched intake and bored for 58mm tb.
Progear forged timing gears, high tensile strength double Roller timing chain.
Cometic head gaskets and other gaskets
Canton valve covers.
Racetronix adjustable fuel pressure regulater.
Stage 3 clutch.
Pcm tuned by lt1tuning.com
Mezner Electric water pump.
Ferrea racing valves.
Valve springs good up to.600 lift.
ARP head studs and main studs.
Poly motor and torque arm mounts.
Speed pro sealed power molly rings.
Royal purple oil in engine and rear end.
Short throw shifter
racetronix hotwire kit
walboro 300 . Fuel pump.
Clevite h-series coated main and rod bearings all plastigauged to tight specs.
Crank polished and checked.
block hot tanked and painted. new freeze plugs.
Block decked, heads decked.
Ac delete
Egr delete
Smog pump delete
No emissions at all.
Micky Thomson et street radials
---Extra parts(not installed yet)
Extra stage 1 Velpro clutch.(new)
Trac bars with poly bushings(new).
Slp dual tube intake(new).
Underdrive pulley(new).
Rear end seal(new)
No name wideband O2 sensor from swap meet. Claims it will work with my car
Two step
08-14-2015, 06:34 AM
#3
Regarding exhaust the 2OTL is in my opinion the best sounding and also one of the best flowing exhaust for the LT1 engine.
That exhaust paired with LPP Headers sounds amazing in my opinion.