Stock rotating assembly safe for cam only? My son and I's 95 Z28 build thread
11-10-2015, 07:56 AM
#21
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If you don't try to tame that cam as Moe suggested (or get a smaller one) it is gonna suck for daily use, IMHO. With the lope and stock converter is it not going to want to stay still at a stop light. Gas mileage will also suck. I'll also agree with the above posts that a stock engine is more than a 16 year old needs, but you seem to have made up your mind. No matter how wise a kid seems, they are still a kid and their judgement has not matured at that age.
11-10-2015, 08:18 AM
#22
To answer your thread topic: Yes, perfectly safe if the rebuild is done competently and as you described your plans. I spun mine to 7100 rpm for 6 seasons of drag racing, and it finally let go this past summer after roadcoursing it for the past two summers and subjecting those poor stock rods to HOURS of 6500-7000 rpm use as opposed to seconds at the dragstrip.
Another vote here for keeping the cam on the tamer side, to make it compatible with that mild gearing and stock converter. If you just have to have "that sound", then custom is the only way to go - keep the duration low and tighten up the lobe centers. Performance will be compromised though.
The stock cam is capable of putting an F-body into the 11's.
With supporting mods, you can crack into the 10's with that AI 226/234 cam. Given the high rpm breathing ability of the LT1 manifold, that's not a mild cam at all. I ran their 228/234 cam and shifted at 7100 for best strip performance.
Another vote here for keeping the cam on the tamer side, to make it compatible with that mild gearing and stock converter. If you just have to have "that sound", then custom is the only way to go - keep the duration low and tighten up the lobe centers. Performance will be compromised though.
The stock cam is capable of putting an F-body into the 11's.
With supporting mods, you can crack into the 10's with that AI 226/234 cam. Given the high rpm breathing ability of the LT1 manifold, that's not a mild cam at all. I ran their 228/234 cam and shifted at 7100 for best strip performance.
11-10-2015, 08:47 AM
#23
I take objection to "perfectly safe" to run stock rod bolts in the stock bottom end with a cam only setup. It's perfect safe right up until the point a cheap GM rod bolt decides it's had enough 6500+RMP and decides to come apart and send a rod out the side of the block. 
Sure, it's been done by many and it may or may not live at higher RPMs for months, years, or maybe just 3 trips down the dragstrip 
You have to ask yourself "are you feeling lucky"? 
IMO I would change the rod bolts unless you run a baby cam.
Sure, it's been done by many and it may or may not live at higher RPMs for months, years, or maybe just 3 trips down the dragstrip You have to ask yourself "are you feeling lucky"? IMO I would change the rod bolts unless you run a baby cam. 
11-10-2015, 09:55 AM
#26
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To answer your thread topic: Yes, perfectly safe if the rebuild is done competently and as you described your plans. I spun mine to 7100 rpm for 6 seasons of drag racing, and it finally let go this past summer after roadcoursing it for the past two summers and subjecting those poor stock rods to HOURS of 6500-7000 rpm use as opposed to seconds at the dragstrip.
Another vote here for keeping the cam on the tamer side, to make it compatible with that mild gearing and stock converter. If you just have to have "that sound", then custom is the only way to go - keep the duration low and tighten up the lobe centers. Performance will be compromised though.
The stock cam is capable of putting an F-body into the 11's.
With supporting mods, you can crack into the 10's with that AI 226/234 cam. Given the high rpm breathing ability of the LT1 manifold, that's not a mild cam at all. I ran their 228/234 cam and shifted at 7100 for best strip performance.
Another vote here for keeping the cam on the tamer side, to make it compatible with that mild gearing and stock converter. If you just have to have "that sound", then custom is the only way to go - keep the duration low and tighten up the lobe centers. Performance will be compromised though.
The stock cam is capable of putting an F-body into the 11's.
With supporting mods, you can crack into the 10's with that AI 226/234 cam. Given the high rpm breathing ability of the LT1 manifold, that's not a mild cam at all. I ran their 228/234 cam and shifted at 7100 for best strip performance.
11-10-2015, 09:57 AM
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I take objection to "perfectly safe" to run stock rod bolts in the stock bottom end with a cam only setup. It's perfect safe right up until the point a cheap GM rod bolt decides it's had enough 6500+RMP and decides to come apart and send a rod out the side of the block. Sure, it's been done by many and it may or may not live at higher RPMs for months, years, or maybe just 3 trips down the dragstrip You have to ask yourself "are you feeling lucky"? IMO I would change the rod bolts unless you run a baby cam.
Sure, it's been done by many and it may or may not live at higher RPMs for months, years, or maybe just 3 trips down the dragstrip You have to ask yourself "are you feeling lucky"? IMO I would change the rod bolts unless you run a baby cam.
11-10-2015, 10:45 AM
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As much as I would like to have an LS Motor, I've got an LT1 so I might as well make use of what i got. Off topic, but Just seen a video of your car doing some Dyno runs, nice. Thing looked like it wanted to jump of the Dyno on the top end.
11-10-2015, 11:26 AM
#30
Performance isn't really what's in mind so custom for sure! The LT1 is new to me. I'm no engine expert by any means, but since I was 16 I've always been around motors.. Primarily big block Chryslers, but also some Small block Chevrolets, the "tuning" is a lot for me to take on, I'm used to tuning carburetors, which isn't easy when it comes to performance... Common misconception that you can "turn two screws and be done" Thanks for all your help!
Or maybe one of the new bootlegger cams from lunati that way you could save some money and get a shelf cam instead of a custom grind.
11-10-2015, 11:26 AM
#31
To answer your thread topic: Yes, perfectly safe if the rebuild is done competently and as you described your plans. I spun mine to 7100 rpm for 6 seasons of drag racing, and it finally let go this past summer after roadcoursing it for the past two summers and subjecting those poor stock rods to HOURS of 6500-7000 rpm use as opposed to seconds at the dragstrip.
Another vote here for keeping the cam on the tamer side, to make it compatible with that mild gearing and stock converter. If you just have to have "that sound", then custom is the only way to go - keep the duration low and tighten up the lobe centers. Performance will be compromised though.
The stock cam is capable of putting an F-body into the 11's.
With supporting mods, you can crack into the 10's with that AI 226/234 cam. Given the high rpm breathing ability of the LT1 manifold, that's not a mild cam at all. I ran their 228/234 cam and shifted at 7100 for best strip performance.
Another vote here for keeping the cam on the tamer side, to make it compatible with that mild gearing and stock converter. If you just have to have "that sound", then custom is the only way to go - keep the duration low and tighten up the lobe centers. Performance will be compromised though.
The stock cam is capable of putting an F-body into the 11's.
With supporting mods, you can crack into the 10's with that AI 226/234 cam. Given the high rpm breathing ability of the LT1 manifold, that's not a mild cam at all. I ran their 228/234 cam and shifted at 7100 for best strip performance.
11-10-2015, 12:31 PM
#34
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If sound is really what your after you can get a thumpr from comp ground for a LT1. Good show cam doesn't make alot of power but does sounds good!
Or maybe one of the new bootlegger cams from lunati that way you could save some money and get a shelf cam instead of a custom grind.
Or maybe one of the new bootlegger cams from lunati that way you could save some money and get a shelf cam instead of a custom grind.
11-10-2015, 12:52 PM
#37
That is awesome man! Has anyone ever tried replacing rod bolts with the motor in the car?
And yes they do make hydraulic roller thumpr cams. Not saying it is the best option for you. Just know they sound pretty good.
And yes they do make hydraulic roller thumpr cams. Not saying it is the best option for you. Just know they sound pretty good.
11-10-2015, 12:56 PM
#38
I certainly hope not. Anytime you change fasteners, the big end of the rod should be resized with the new fasteners torqued to spec. Otherwise, you stand a sure chance of ending up with ovalized big ends (more than the ovalization from standard wear)
11-10-2015, 02:07 PM
#40
OP, this may sound "off the wall", but if you're insistent on turning your son loose in a Z/28, as a 16 year old, let me suggest that you send him to a high performance (racing) school. We all know that he'll be tempted to "get on it" once in a while. While on one hand, going to the school might tempt to do it more often, at least it will teach him to know how to handle the car, when he gets it sideways.....
One other thing......UPGRADE THE BRAKES!!! I owned a '96 Z/28 for close to 20 years, owned it since it was brand new. I was simply amazed, that GM could sell a car THAT fast, with brakes that were marginal.
One other thing......UPGRADE THE BRAKES!!! I owned a '96 Z/28 for close to 20 years, owned it since it was brand new. I was simply amazed, that GM could sell a car THAT fast, with brakes that were marginal.