Stock rotating assembly safe for cam only? My son and I's 95 Z28 build thread
11-10-2015, 02:23 PM
#41
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Since colder weather has became more prominent in my parts the problems of my car have became worse so, I've gotten it disassembled for the winter. Some buddies and me dropped the motor out the bottom last night after the waterpump died and soaked the 162k opti... 
As bad as it is, it came at a pretty adequate time considering the months where snow is very regular where I live are only a week or two away. So I figured it would be a fun project for me and my 16 year old son who doesn't have a car yet, he gets his license in May of 2016. I'm planning to have me and him work on it make it cool and then surprise him by giving it to him when he gets his license. The motor is still fine, I'm strongly hoping of being able to get away with just a simple wash, hone, line hone, new cam bearings, new freeze plugs, maybe 10/10 the crank if needed. I do plan on putting a small cam in, I think I've settled on the AI 226/234 110LSA cam. My only questions are how reliable would the motor be with this cam, re using the stock rotating assembly? I plan on having the rods shotpeened/resized and upgrading to ARP rod bolts. I'm going to use midlength headers since I have already lowered the car and I don't wanna deal with the scraping and headers causing false knock by hitting the k member, the O2s being extended etc... Next question To support the AI cam can anyone recommend some quality parts for a budget? Of Course since the water pump died along with the opti I'll be replacing those items with a Delco Pump and MSD opti. Any tips and pointers here? I only have 3500-4000 dollars for this. That's why I'm planning on using the stock rotating assembly and going with a smaller cam so I don't have to buy some hardcore valve train components...
For those that don't know the car is a 95 Z28 LT1 A4 with 3.23 gear rear end.
As bad as it is, it came at a pretty adequate time considering the months where snow is very regular where I live are only a week or two away. So I figured it would be a fun project for me and my 16 year old son who doesn't have a car yet, he gets his license in May of 2016. I'm planning to have me and him work on it make it cool and then surprise him by giving it to him when he gets his license. The motor is still fine, I'm strongly hoping of being able to get away with just a simple wash, hone, line hone, new cam bearings, new freeze plugs, maybe 10/10 the crank if needed. I do plan on putting a small cam in, I think I've settled on the AI 226/234 110LSA cam. My only questions are how reliable would the motor be with this cam, re using the stock rotating assembly? I plan on having the rods shotpeened/resized and upgrading to ARP rod bolts. I'm going to use midlength headers since I have already lowered the car and I don't wanna deal with the scraping and headers causing false knock by hitting the k member, the O2s being extended etc... Next question To support the AI cam can anyone recommend some quality parts for a budget? Of Course since the water pump died along with the opti I'll be replacing those items with a Delco Pump and MSD opti. Any tips and pointers here? I only have 3500-4000 dollars for this. That's why I'm planning on using the stock rotating assembly and going with a smaller cam so I don't have to buy some hardcore valve train components...For those that don't know the car is a 95 Z28 LT1 A4 with 3.23 gear rear end.
If you're looking for an option on a smaller cam, the old 218/224 XE grind is a great daily driver cam. I'd specify a 112 lsa vs. the 114 that is usually catalogued for a tad flatter torque curve and a bit more lope at idle, if that's what you want. Either way, this is a cam with excellent street manners, a noticeable but not obnoxious lope, and is easy on the valvetrain. On a dynojet I've seen numbers in the upper 340s with this cam and untouched stock heads, so it is indeed right there with the much more popular and slightly larger CC503. I have plenty of data and experience from years ago on this cam and other smallish XE grinds for LT motors, just PM me if you're curious.
As far as valvetrain goes, I'd go with the LS7 replacement lifters (if you don't re-use the stock ones), Pro Mag NSA rockers, guideplates and hardened pushrods.
While it's all apart, you might spring for a quick valve job on the heads and when you put everything back together, definitely use the .026 head gaskets for a bump in static compression. It'll still like pump gas just fine.
I can't stress this enough. Ditch the stock converter for a nice aftermarket one. It's worth it, no matter what cam you go with. You can inform the converter manufacturer that you plan on sticking with the stock 3.23 gears when you order and they'll tailor it to that, and the cam I just mentioned would work very well that that combo. Make sure you specify a lockup converter. That cam shouldn't need any more than 3000-3500 stall speed to work well, FWIW.
Mid-length headers are fine, on a mild setup like this you're really not giving up much, probably less than 10rwhp. I had the 1 5/8" MAC mids for a while and rolled over 350rwhp/360rwtq SAE on a dynojet with a very similar 'cam only' setup with them many years ago.
Stock water pump and Delco opti will both work well.
A setup like this would make for a great running daily driver capable of low 12s at around 110 at the strip, idle in traffic all day with the A/C on, and get decent mileage.
Later, if he wanted your son could add a steeper gear, take some weight out, build the tranny and add a drag-oriented lightweight wheel/tire combo and tickle the 11s.
As far as the driver being young, if he's responsible enough to handle a 13 second car, he's likely responsible enough to handle a 12 second car. I likely would have put either in a ditch sooner than later at that age, but some if not most teens are much less reckless and irresponsible than I was.
My recommendations are all from the point of view of making good power efficiently and putting it down properly and having the car still easy to drive day-to-day. Much more so than what specific cam grind someone went with; how thoroughly and well a setup is thought out and put together is usually what makes the difference between a setup that performs very well and one with mediocre or sub-par performance. Even though picking the wrong cam is one of the easiest ways to screw it up
Oh yea, don't forget a good tune!
Last edited by HellTeeOne; 11-10-2015 at 02:45 PM.
11-10-2015, 06:35 PM
#42
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OP, this may sound "off the wall", but if you're insistent on turning your son loose in a Z/28, as a 16 year old, let me suggest that you send him to a high performance (racing) school. We all know that he'll be tempted to "get on it" once in a while. While on one hand, going to the school might tempt to do it more often, at least it will teach him to know how to handle the car, when he gets it sideways.....
One other thing......UPGRADE THE BRAKES!!! I owned a '96 Z/28 for close to 20 years, owned it since it was brand new. I was simply amazed, that GM could sell a car THAT fast, with brakes that were marginal.
One other thing......UPGRADE THE BRAKES!!! I owned a '96 Z/28 for close to 20 years, owned it since it was brand new. I was simply amazed, that GM could sell a car THAT fast, with brakes that were marginal.
as for brakes, I already have some LS1 calipers I plan on swapping on soon.
11-10-2015, 06:46 PM
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Everything looks good on that list. The freshened stock bottom will be fine, just add ARP bolts.
If you're looking for an option on a smaller cam, the old 218/224 XE grind is a great daily driver cam. I'd specify a 112 lsa vs. the 114 that is usually catalogued for a tad flatter torque curve and a bit more lope at idle, if that's what you want. Either way, this is a cam with excellent street manners, a noticeable but not obnoxious lope, and is easy on the valvetrain. On a dynojet I've seen numbers in the upper 340s with this cam and untouched stock heads, so it is indeed right there with the much more popular and slightly larger CC503. I have plenty of data and experience from years ago on this cam and other smallish XE grinds for LT motors, just PM me if you're curious.
As far as valvetrain goes, I'd go with the LS7 replacement lifters (if you don't re-use the stock ones), Pro Mag NSA rockers, guideplates and hardened pushrods.
While it's all apart, you might spring for a quick valve job on the heads and when you put everything back together, definitely use the .026 head gaskets for a bump in static compression. It'll still like pump gas just fine.
I can't stress this enough. Ditch the stock converter for a nice aftermarket one. It's worth it, no matter what cam you go with. You can inform the converter manufacturer that you plan on sticking with the stock 3.23 gears when you order and they'll tailor it to that, and the cam I just mentioned would work very well that that combo. Make sure you specify a lockup converter. That cam shouldn't need any more than 3000-3500 stall speed to work well, FWIW.
Mid-length headers are fine, on a mild setup like this you're really not giving up much, probably less than 10rwhp. I had the 1 5/8" MAC mids for a while and rolled over 350rwhp/360rwtq SAE on a dynojet with a very similar 'cam only' setup with them many years ago.
Stock water pump and Delco opti will both work well.
A setup like this would make for a great running daily driver capable of low 12s at around 110 at the strip, idle in traffic all day with the A/C on, and get decent mileage.
Later, if he wanted your son could add a steeper gear, take some weight out, build the tranny and add a drag-oriented lightweight wheel/tire combo and tickle the 11s.
As far as the driver being young, if he's responsible enough to handle a 13 second car, he's likely responsible enough to handle a 12 second car. I likely would have put either in a ditch sooner than later at that age, but some if not most teens are much less reckless and irresponsible than I was.
My recommendations are all from the point of view of making good power efficiently and putting it down properly and having the car still easy to drive day-to-day. Much more so than what specific cam grind someone went with; how thoroughly and well a setup is thought out and put together is usually what makes the difference between a setup that performs very well and one with mediocre or sub-par performance. Even though picking the wrong cam is one of the easiest ways to screw it up
Oh yea, don't forget a good tune!
If you're looking for an option on a smaller cam, the old 218/224 XE grind is a great daily driver cam. I'd specify a 112 lsa vs. the 114 that is usually catalogued for a tad flatter torque curve and a bit more lope at idle, if that's what you want. Either way, this is a cam with excellent street manners, a noticeable but not obnoxious lope, and is easy on the valvetrain. On a dynojet I've seen numbers in the upper 340s with this cam and untouched stock heads, so it is indeed right there with the much more popular and slightly larger CC503. I have plenty of data and experience from years ago on this cam and other smallish XE grinds for LT motors, just PM me if you're curious.
As far as valvetrain goes, I'd go with the LS7 replacement lifters (if you don't re-use the stock ones), Pro Mag NSA rockers, guideplates and hardened pushrods.
While it's all apart, you might spring for a quick valve job on the heads and when you put everything back together, definitely use the .026 head gaskets for a bump in static compression. It'll still like pump gas just fine.
I can't stress this enough. Ditch the stock converter for a nice aftermarket one. It's worth it, no matter what cam you go with. You can inform the converter manufacturer that you plan on sticking with the stock 3.23 gears when you order and they'll tailor it to that, and the cam I just mentioned would work very well that that combo. Make sure you specify a lockup converter. That cam shouldn't need any more than 3000-3500 stall speed to work well, FWIW.
Mid-length headers are fine, on a mild setup like this you're really not giving up much, probably less than 10rwhp. I had the 1 5/8" MAC mids for a while and rolled over 350rwhp/360rwtq SAE on a dynojet with a very similar 'cam only' setup with them many years ago.
Stock water pump and Delco opti will both work well.
A setup like this would make for a great running daily driver capable of low 12s at around 110 at the strip, idle in traffic all day with the A/C on, and get decent mileage.
Later, if he wanted your son could add a steeper gear, take some weight out, build the tranny and add a drag-oriented lightweight wheel/tire combo and tickle the 11s.
As far as the driver being young, if he's responsible enough to handle a 13 second car, he's likely responsible enough to handle a 12 second car. I likely would have put either in a ditch sooner than later at that age, but some if not most teens are much less reckless and irresponsible than I was.
My recommendations are all from the point of view of making good power efficiently and putting it down properly and having the car still easy to drive day-to-day. Much more so than what specific cam grind someone went with; how thoroughly and well a setup is thought out and put together is usually what makes the difference between a setup that performs very well and one with mediocre or sub-par performance. Even though picking the wrong cam is one of the easiest ways to screw it up
Oh yea, don't forget a good tune!
11-10-2015, 09:31 PM
#44
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Okay well, after researching my favorite sounding cams specs ended up being 292/292 .480/.480 lift 109LSA.... Yeah Not happening... Anyways guess I will call LE or AI and see what they recommend. I'm gonna change the thread to a build thread now, I will update over time with pics and etc.
11-11-2015, 06:24 AM
#45
And tuning, this is what confuses me. I'm old lol, how would I go about getting one? I understand the concept about changing what the computer knows like cam specs, rear end gears messing with the spark tables the fuel etc etc, but I here people say "tuners" does this require a Dyno run? Or can I ship someone my PCM to have them tune it given I supplied all the cars specs?? Sorry if this is a dumb question I'm new to computer cars!
Also what I have done, is you can have the tuner limit the RPM and MPH if you want until you feel complete trust in him, I did that for another 16 year old, The father wanted me to limit the RPM's to 4500 and the mph to 70, then a few months later I removed the limits..
11-11-2015, 06:33 AM
#46
I've run Edge in a couple of vehicles and have been pretty happy with them. For a given stall rpm rating, they tend to drive looser and flash higher than a Yank with the same stall rpm number. Ie. an Edge 2800 drives about like a Yank SS3200 and flashes to about the same rpm on the hit. Be sure to get the Street Edge 9.5", not the 12". The Yanks have a billet front cover and a more durable lockup clutch, but the Edge's have held up well in light vehicles like F-bodies.
11-11-2015, 07:57 AM
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I've run Edge in a couple of vehicles and have been pretty happy with them. For a given stall rpm rating, they tend to drive looser and flash higher than a Yank with the same stall rpm number. Ie. an Edge 2800 drives about like a Yank SS3200 and flashes to about the same rpm on the hit. Be sure to get the Street Edge 9.5", not the 12". The Yanks have a billet front cover and a more durable lockup clutch, but the Edge's have held up well in light vehicles like F-bodies.
11-11-2015, 08:22 AM
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Also what I have done, is you can have the tuner limit the RPM and MPH if you want until you feel complete trust in him, I did that for another 16 year old, The father wanted me to limit the RPM's to 4500 and the mph to 70, then a few months later I removed the limits..
11-11-2015, 09:46 AM
#49
But like we all can agree you have to be realistic what a high school kid is going to do with the car. So you have to take his promise to be careful and responsible and that's that lol
11-11-2015, 11:09 AM
#50
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Okay well, after researching my favorite sounding cams specs ended up being 292/292 .480/.480 lift 109LSA.... Yeah Not happening... Anyways guess I will call LE or AI and see what they recommend. I'm gonna change the thread to a build thread now, I will update over time with pics and etc.
LPE 211/219
XE 218/224 (would be my personal pick)
GM LT4 Hotcam
Comp CC305
Any of these will work great and will noticeably lope at idle without ruining driveability or fuel economy. Whatever AI or LE suggest for your stated purposes (daily driving, stock heads, auto tranny with small converter) will likely be close to these in actual specs. And either of them will tell you that which exact grind you go with doesn't matter much, as long as any 2 given cams are somewhat close in specs, they will perform very similarly. There are no voodoo or magic tricks in cam selection.
Yes, you are going to have to have the computer calibrated for the new modifications. It's best to have a dyno tune, but you can also get with one of the guys on here that does that type of thing and get a recalibration through the mail. Which option you go with probably will depend on whether you have a dyno shop in your area that has the software to tune LT1-based cars.
11-11-2015, 12:29 PM
#51
I think we're getting a little offtrack of what the OP has asked for.
Once again, if you're buying a new cam, might as well get a custom from LE; no more money than new off-the-shelf.
If buying used:
LPE will not lope, but will run great.
XE218/224 will not lope, but will run great.
GM Hotcam will lope, and if installed on a 106 ICL will run great.
Comp CC503 will lope and make good power. CC305 will lope and make lousy low and midrange power.
Once again, if you're buying a new cam, might as well get a custom from LE; no more money than new off-the-shelf.
If buying used:
LPE will not lope, but will run great.
XE218/224 will not lope, but will run great.
GM Hotcam will lope, and if installed on a 106 ICL will run great.
Comp CC503 will lope and make good power. CC305 will lope and make lousy low and midrange power.
11-11-2015, 01:17 PM
#52
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Putting a 16 YOA boy in a powerful car is not a smart thing, regardless of how good a kid he is or how good of a driver he has shown himself to be (if you think that he's going to drive that car the same as when you're in the car as when you're out when he has a friend or 2 with him, you are kidding yourself), when you combine inexperience, bravado, and the natural fearlessness that exists with teenage boys, it's a recipe for disaster and you do not want to live with that decision should things go wrong.
I'm not doubting that your son is a good kid, but there is a reason why insurance rates for teenage boys are what they are - historical precedent that remains consistent over generations.
Let him get his feet wet behind the wheel in something simple and safe (call it boring) like an Accord, then move up to a more powerful and challenging vehicle.
I'm not doubting that your son is a good kid, but there is a reason why insurance rates for teenage boys are what they are - historical precedent that remains consistent over generations.
Let him get his feet wet behind the wheel in something simple and safe (call it boring) like an Accord, then move up to a more powerful and challenging vehicle.
11-11-2015, 03:29 PM
#53
These cars make more than enough power completely stock to get a young inexperienced driver in trouble....in more ways than one. He'd have to prove to me like he can drive with some sense for almost a year before I'd ever consider turning him loose in one of these cars.
11-12-2015, 10:33 AM
#54
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I think we're getting a little offtrack of what the OP has asked for.
Once again, if you're buying a new cam, might as well get a custom from LE; no more money than new off-the-shelf.
If buying used:
LPE will not lope, but will run great.
XE218/224 will not lope, but will run great.
GM Hotcam will lope, and if installed on a 106 ICL will run great.
Comp CC503 will lope and make good power. CC305 will lope and make lousy low and midrange power.
Once again, if you're buying a new cam, might as well get a custom from LE; no more money than new off-the-shelf.
If buying used:
LPE will not lope, but will run great.
XE218/224 will not lope, but will run great.
GM Hotcam will lope, and if installed on a 106 ICL will run great.
Comp CC503 will lope and make good power. CC305 will lope and make lousy low and midrange power.
I know 2 folks who ran this cam years ago with stock untouched heads and bolt-ons. One dynoed 348rwhp when tuned and trapped 112 with stock 3.42s, the other ran 114 through the traps (M6 with 4.10s). Another fella I know with a similar A4 car with the same cam, Vigi 3200, 3.73s, about 100 lbs taken out, skinnies and M/T drag radials went 12.0@111.
I've always liked the old-school smaller XE grinds, mostly because of the fat torque curves I've seen them make when ground on tight LSAs.
I currently run the AI 228/234 on a 108 with the 200cc heads, and even now I only make about 20 lb-ft more across the curve than I did with an old XE224/236 and stock heads. Still annihilates street tires from roll-ons at any speed under 60mph though
11-12-2015, 10:59 AM
#55
HellTee, No argument whatsoever that those XE lobes make for some great powerbands. They're my favorite for spec'ing cams to make good power without beating up the valvetrain.
Two of my Impala friends, one with a Hotcam, the other with the XE218/224/112; the sound was night and day difference in favor of the Hotcam. But guess what.... with mild gearing and converter that both cars had, the XE was quicker. I'm pretty sure the Hotcam was just "dropped in" at it's factory 109 ICL, so that didn't help it any.
You and I have the same cam/head combo. Needless to say, it has exceeded my expectations. Max torque is 386 SAE through an A4, and not peaky.
Two of my Impala friends, one with a Hotcam, the other with the XE218/224/112; the sound was night and day difference in favor of the Hotcam. But guess what.... with mild gearing and converter that both cars had, the XE was quicker. I'm pretty sure the Hotcam was just "dropped in" at it's factory 109 ICL, so that didn't help it any.
You and I have the same cam/head combo. Needless to say, it has exceeded my expectations. Max torque is 386 SAE through an A4, and not peaky.
11-12-2015, 12:52 PM
#56
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LPE may not lope, but I do know that the 218/224 will lope. It's no CC306 or anything, but you can most assuredly tell it's there, particularly through a free-flowing exhaust.
I know 2 folks who ran this cam years ago with stock untouched heads and bolt-ons. One dynoed 348rwhp when tuned and trapped 112 with stock 3.42s, the other ran 114 through the traps (M6 with 4.10s). Another fella I know with a similar A4 car with the same cam, Vigi 3200, 3.73s, about 100 lbs taken out, skinnies and M/T drag radials went 12.0@111.
I've always liked the old-school smaller XE grinds, mostly because of the fat torque curves I've seen them make when ground on tight LSAs.
I currently run the AI 228/234 on a 108 with the 200cc heads, and even now I only make about 20 lb-ft more across the curve than I did with an old XE224/236 and stock heads. Still annihilates street tires from roll-ons at any speed under 60mph though
I know 2 folks who ran this cam years ago with stock untouched heads and bolt-ons. One dynoed 348rwhp when tuned and trapped 112 with stock 3.42s, the other ran 114 through the traps (M6 with 4.10s). Another fella I know with a similar A4 car with the same cam, Vigi 3200, 3.73s, about 100 lbs taken out, skinnies and M/T drag radials went 12.0@111.
I've always liked the old-school smaller XE grinds, mostly because of the fat torque curves I've seen them make when ground on tight LSAs.
I currently run the AI 228/234 on a 108 with the 200cc heads, and even now I only make about 20 lb-ft more across the curve than I did with an old XE224/236 and stock heads. Still annihilates street tires from roll-ons at any speed under 60mph though
11-13-2015, 01:44 PM
#57
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Well guys, a few things that need to be done to the car that are non motor related
1. Get VHT off the tails.
2. Plasti-dip Berger panel
3. Find used 5 spoke wheels
4. Radio/amp/speakers/subs
5. Repair and wrap the dash
6. Tint windows
7. 98-02 front brake swap
There are many other things suspension wise I already have for the car such as BMR 3. tubular weld in SFC's, BMR tubular LCA's and relocation brackets, BMR STB, Sprano non adjst. hollow 35/22 sway bars, Poly Trans mount, Poly motor mounts, Poly bump stops, new shock/strut mounts and lastly Koni Oranges/Sprano springs. The shocks and and springs are already installed with new mounts. Very excited to do all this stuff, this thing should be like a surgeon in the corners, with upgraded brakes of corse! Those LT1 brakes are TERRIBLE...
1. Get VHT off the tails.
2. Plasti-dip Berger panel
3. Find used 5 spoke wheels
4. Radio/amp/speakers/subs
5. Repair and wrap the dash
6. Tint windows
7. 98-02 front brake swap
There are many other things suspension wise I already have for the car such as BMR 3. tubular weld in SFC's, BMR tubular LCA's and relocation brackets, BMR STB, Sprano non adjst. hollow 35/22 sway bars, Poly Trans mount, Poly motor mounts, Poly bump stops, new shock/strut mounts and lastly Koni Oranges/Sprano springs. The shocks and and springs are already installed with new mounts. Very excited to do all this stuff, this thing should be like a surgeon in the corners, with upgraded brakes of corse! Those LT1 brakes are TERRIBLE...
11-15-2015, 09:49 PM
#58
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Lol I just posted to your thread in the suspension section and I came here to read up on your build. All I hear is "your son at 16 with 300+ horsepower..." "Are you sure you want your son..."
I've been there, done that. Except I was the 16 year old. First car, and still only car (barely.) I'm 19 now and my car is a 95 3.4 liter with 160 horsepower. (See sig) My first winter I took it slow and went through it fine, second winter I hit the gas in slush, went through a small ditch into a field and I drove out. My nerves were on the edge for the next few hours and I was told I looked like a ghost by the person who was behind me, they were nice enough to stop to ask if I was alright after I stopped once I got back on the road. Boys will be boys Since then I've entered myself at a couple local autocross events and now can swing the rear end out anytime I want, even with 160 hp with an open diff! The best part is that I can control it now, and I'm not as stupid as I was before, okay maybe I am. It really doesn't matter what horsepower you're running, if you know how to control a car, especially one without TC, that's better than putting an inexperienced driver into any car at 16.
My point behind my rattling is that you're going through a lot of work and money to get this car back into driving condition and it looks like your son is helping out and knows how to drive (or until he is with his friends.) Obviously he'll be dealing with a LOT more horsepower than I did and he'll have a ton of fun with that car in high school. Like the old saying, "With lots of torque comes lots of responsibility." or something like that... I cannot stress enough to get your son involved in the project as much as you can. And let him test out the limits of it once you're done with it (at a local event or somewhere legal)
I've been there, done that. Except I was the 16 year old. First car, and still only car (barely.) I'm 19 now and my car is a 95 3.4 liter with 160 horsepower. (See sig) My first winter I took it slow and went through it fine, second winter I hit the gas in slush, went through a small ditch into a field and I drove out. My nerves were on the edge for the next few hours and I was told I looked like a ghost by the person who was behind me, they were nice enough to stop to ask if I was alright after I stopped once I got back on the road. Boys will be boys
Since then I've entered myself at a couple local autocross events and now can swing the rear end out anytime I want, even with 160 hp with an open diff! The best part is that I can control it now, and I'm not as stupid as I was before, okay maybe I am. It really doesn't matter what horsepower you're running, if you know how to control a car, especially one without TC, that's better than putting an inexperienced driver into any car at 16.My point behind my rattling is that you're going through a lot of work and money to get this car back into driving condition and it looks like your son is helping out and knows how to drive (or until he is with his friends.) Obviously he'll be dealing with a LOT more horsepower than I did and he'll have a ton of fun with that car in high school. Like the old saying, "With lots of torque comes lots of responsibility." or something like that... I cannot stress enough to get your son involved in the project as much as you can. And let him test out the limits of it once you're done with it (at a local event or somewhere legal)
11-16-2015, 06:04 AM
#59
I think this is the first thread I've seen where we went 3 pages and everyone is agreeing on everything.
I am with everyone else about making it safe for him. Number 1 is suspension and brakes. I got my car when I was 18 and within a week I hit a curb taking a corner too fast thinking it would handle like my moms maxima but it got loose. I immediately went out and redid the suspension and brakes and got new tires. The 20 year old decarbon shocks have got to go in favor of Bilstein HDs so he can make a corner with any speed. The ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings also are probably torn and need replaced. An ls1 brake swap is a good idea or some really good pads, but most of all, give him good TIRES. My car handled like **** with tiger paw all season tires and worn out stock suspension and being 18 I didn't know the limits. A 32mm up to 99 ws6 or SS front sway bar helps too. When I was done I took 2 of my friends for a ride who both had 2002 z28s with under 30k miles and they were amazed at the difference from their cars.
I am with everyone else about making it safe for him. Number 1 is suspension and brakes. I got my car when I was 18 and within a week I hit a curb taking a corner too fast thinking it would handle like my moms maxima but it got loose. I immediately went out and redid the suspension and brakes and got new tires. The 20 year old decarbon shocks have got to go in favor of Bilstein HDs so he can make a corner with any speed. The ball joints, tie rod ends, and bushings also are probably torn and need replaced. An ls1 brake swap is a good idea or some really good pads, but most of all, give him good TIRES. My car handled like **** with tiger paw all season tires and worn out stock suspension and being 18 I didn't know the limits. A 32mm up to 99 ws6 or SS front sway bar helps too. When I was done I took 2 of my friends for a ride who both had 2002 z28s with under 30k miles and they were amazed at the difference from their cars.
