Best opti's as of 2016?
Best opti's as of 2016? Hey guys, new member here so don't beat me up! Lol. I know this has been discussed many times over, but, I searched this in the lt1/lt4 section and didn't find much after 3-4 pages. BTW, what is the best way to search this forum? My opti search shows the most recently discussed, not most recently posted. Currently, as of 2016, what are the better options for a replacement opti, and what are those reasons for said recommendation? I have researched this before and have come to these conclusions thus far: Best opti is a stock replacement Dephi or A/C Delco or some ****. GM and MSD are hit or miss, accel sucks, and so does everything else. Also, is there a more affordable, RELIABLE option than the $300-$400 oem unit? I read before about a Chandler Motorsports opti for $150 or something that seemed like it worked well and had a lifetime warranty. Some guys were complaining DOA, some praised it, and the vendor himself was on ls1tech defending that the "DOA" complaints were another problem that they weren't mechanically inclined enough to find, and just blamed the opti. Thoughs? Advise? I probably just need to fork over $350 for an oem huh? Damn, I could buy pacesetters for that... 
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It is my understanding all "AC Delco" Optis are now 'remanufactured". Not saying that is bad but they are no longer NIB
Delphi is "new" but it has been years since I bought mine.
I still run my 17 year old GM "AC Delco" opti with a MSD C&R
Op, I would consider a MSD C&R for your existing AC Delcos if the shaft bearing is good (assuming the optis are good otherwise)
Delphi is "new" but it has been years since I bought mine.
I still run my 17 year old GM "AC Delco" opti with a MSD C&R
Op, I would consider a MSD C&R for your existing AC Delcos if the shaft bearing is good (assuming the optis are good otherwise)
It is my understanding all "AC Delco" Optis are now 'remanufactured". Not saying that is bad but they are no longer NIB
Delphi is "new" but it has been years since I bought mine.
I still run my 17 year old GM "AC Delco" opti with a MSD C&R
Op, I would consider a MSD C&R for your existing AC Delcos if the shaft bearing is good (assuming the optis are good otherwise)
Delphi is "new" but it has been years since I bought mine.
I still run my 17 year old GM "AC Delco" opti with a MSD C&R
Op, I would consider a MSD C&R for your existing AC Delcos if the shaft bearing is good (assuming the optis are good otherwise)
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while rain can induce a opti to act up, there are other factors than can be the problem. ICM or coil being a few
The MSD C&R is considered a "upgrade" vs stock more in terms of the quality of the C&R and the fact it has one more hold down screw location for the cap. Just like any distributor the C&R is a wear item and needs replacing, certainly at or over 100k mi.
The MSD cap seals basically the same as OEM Optis using a large rubber "O" ring. Putting dialectic grease on the "o" ring helps.
If the shaft bearing is still good (no wobble) and you clean up the inside of the Opti if it does have some form of oil/moisture/crud inside a new C&R is all you need
also put a new o ring on the spline shaft of the Opti. Most replace the WP drive & Opti seals on timing cover when doing a C&R. The FelPro TC gasket/seal kit has everything (and more) you need and is about $10 at most auto part stores. Both those seals install dry (don't use grease or oil) and the WP drive seal can be tricky to install as the inner lip wants to fold over which will result in a immediate oil leak. A "tool" is required which can be several forms of homemade or one you buy. do a search on wp seal install if you have not done one. Not hard to do, just need a tool, socket or sharpie pen body or even the spline coupler itself to slide the new seal on.
The MSD C&R is considered a "upgrade" vs stock more in terms of the quality of the C&R and the fact it has one more hold down screw location for the cap. Just like any distributor the C&R is a wear item and needs replacing, certainly at or over 100k mi.
The MSD cap seals basically the same as OEM Optis using a large rubber "O" ring. Putting dialectic grease on the "o" ring helps.
If the shaft bearing is still good (no wobble) and you clean up the inside of the Opti if it does have some form of oil/moisture/crud inside a new C&R is all you need
also put a new o ring on the spline shaft of the Opti. Most replace the WP drive & Opti seals on timing cover when doing a C&R. The FelPro TC gasket/seal kit has everything (and more) you need and is about $10 at most auto part stores. Both those seals install dry (don't use grease or oil) and the WP drive seal can be tricky to install as the inner lip wants to fold over which will result in a immediate oil leak. A "tool" is required which can be several forms of homemade or one you buy. do a search on wp seal install if you have not done one. Not hard to do, just need a tool, socket or sharpie pen body or even the spline coupler itself to slide the new seal on.
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Verdad Gallardo while rain can induce a opti to act up, there are other factors than can be the problem. ICM or coil being a few
The MSD C&R is considered a "upgrade" vs stock more in terms of the quality of the C&R and the fact it has one more hold down screw location for the cap. Just like any distributor the C&R is a wear item and needs replacing, certainly at or over 100k mi.
The MSD cap seals basically the same as OEM Optis using a large rubber "O" ring. Putting dialectic grease on the "o" ring helps.
If the shaft bearing is still good (no wobble) and you clean up the inside of the Opti if it does have some form of oil/moisture/crud inside a new C&R is all you need
also put a new o ring on the spline shaft of the Opti. Most replace the WP drive & Opti seals on timing cover when doing a C&R. The FelPro TC gasket/seal kit has everything (and more) you need and is about $10 at most auto part stores. Both those seals install dry (don't use grease or oil) and the WP drive seal can be tricky to install as the inner lip wants to fold over which will result in a immediate oil leak. A "tool" is required which can be several forms of homemade or one you buy. do a search on wp seal install if you have not done one. Not hard to do, just need a tool, socket or sharpie pen body or even the spline coupler itself to slide the new seal on.
The MSD C&R is considered a "upgrade" vs stock more in terms of the quality of the C&R and the fact it has one more hold down screw location for the cap. Just like any distributor the C&R is a wear item and needs replacing, certainly at or over 100k mi.
The MSD cap seals basically the same as OEM Optis using a large rubber "O" ring. Putting dialectic grease on the "o" ring helps.
If the shaft bearing is still good (no wobble) and you clean up the inside of the Opti if it does have some form of oil/moisture/crud inside a new C&R is all you need
also put a new o ring on the spline shaft of the Opti. Most replace the WP drive & Opti seals on timing cover when doing a C&R. The FelPro TC gasket/seal kit has everything (and more) you need and is about $10 at most auto part stores. Both those seals install dry (don't use grease or oil) and the WP drive seal can be tricky to install as the inner lip wants to fold over which will result in a immediate oil leak. A "tool" is required which can be several forms of homemade or one you buy. do a search on wp seal install if you have not done one. Not hard to do, just need a tool, socket or sharpie pen body or even the spline coupler itself to slide the new seal on.
lol. If you are going with an EWP, you will need to plug or fill the hole in the timing cover that the water pump drive used to go through. Some people use a quarter and some JB weld, some weld it shut, etc.
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You DO NOT need to remove the WP drive gear/spline itself if going to EWP. You can if you chose to but you will need to plug the hole in some fashion...
I have had my EWP since 1999 with the OEM drive gear still installed, no issues.
IMHO just leave it on (it is no small job to remove and plug). Should you ever need to go back to mechanical WP you can. Lets say your EWP craps somewhere on a trip and you don't have a spare EWP to replace it with without ordering one somewhere as they are not available at auto parts stores. Mechanical WP's can be had anywhere so you could replace it should you need to while on a road trip. With this said some, like me, keep a spare EWP in the trunk. Should it ever die changing it takes a few minutes and can easily be done on the side of the road should that situation occur. My spare has been in the trunk for about 17 years now....
My intentions for going ewp are mostly for the hp/tq gains. I have seen that they dyno about an 8hp/12ft-lbs gain over the stocker. With that being said, wouldn't you want to remove the wp drive to maximize the performance gains? I understand that means a hell of a lot more work, removing the timing cover and such. And can you remove the whole thing including that large gear in the back, or just the shaft? I'm just wondering how much of that 8hp/12ft-lbs is lost by leaving the drive gear and shaft on. That assembly itself is larger than the propeller and shaft inside the stock water pump, so I have to imagine that half of the gains are from removing the water pump drive as well, no? What do you guys think?
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From: New Orleans, LA
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And can you remove the whole thing including that large gear in the back, or just the shaft? I'm just wondering how much of that 8hp/12ft-lbs is lost by leaving the drive gear and shaft on. That assembly itself is larger than the propeller and shaft inside the stock water pump, so I have to imagine that half of the gains are from removing the water pump drive as well, no? What do you guys think?
The drive gear itself just spinning....it "may" draw HP...but IMHO somewhere in the .0xxx range. Given the amount of work to remove it AND plugging the TC hole so it won't leak is just not worth it to gain .0xx, if any, HP
The 10 hp (or whatever has been dynoed) gain is because the engine is not mechanically driving the WP which by itself is a drag on the motor mechanically. And the argument the 135 amp alternator will further drain HP as a result of running a 7 amp EWP...please, file that under the sky is falling crap
I went EWP 17+ years ago because the mechanicals kept weeping killing Opti's. All were under new car warranty but when my warranty ended I chose not to continue the BS pattern of crap AC Delco WP. I have not had that problem since. Did I pick up HP, sure but that was not my reason for doing it
Make sure you wire a good relay & fuse for the EWP. BS wiring=failed EWP
to take TC off you need to drop the pan some in front...
The drive gear itself just spinning....it "may" draw HP...but IMHO somewhere in the .0xxx range. Given the amount of work to remove it AND plugging the TC hole so it won't leak is just not worth it to gain .0xx, if any, HP
The 10 hp (or whatever has been dynoed) gain is because the engine is not mechanically driving the WP which by itself is a drag on the motor mechanically. And the argument the 135 amp alternator will further drain HP as a result of running a 7 amp EWP...please, file that under the sky is falling crap
I went EWP 17+ years ago because the mechanicals kept weeping killing Opti's. All were under new car warranty but when my warranty ended I chose not to continue the BS pattern of crap AC Delco WP. I have not had that problem since. Did I pick up HP, sure but that was not my reason for doing it
Make sure you wire a good relay & fuse for the EWP. BS wiring=failed EWP
The drive gear itself just spinning....it "may" draw HP...but IMHO somewhere in the .0xxx range. Given the amount of work to remove it AND plugging the TC hole so it won't leak is just not worth it to gain .0xx, if any, HP
The 10 hp (or whatever has been dynoed) gain is because the engine is not mechanically driving the WP which by itself is a drag on the motor mechanically. And the argument the 135 amp alternator will further drain HP as a result of running a 7 amp EWP...please, file that under the sky is falling crap
I went EWP 17+ years ago because the mechanicals kept weeping killing Opti's. All were under new car warranty but when my warranty ended I chose not to continue the BS pattern of crap AC Delco WP. I have not had that problem since. Did I pick up HP, sure but that was not my reason for doing it
Make sure you wire a good relay & fuse for the EWP. BS wiring=failed EWP
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Any suggestions for a relay and fuse, or wiring? Which ewp do you use? I hear a lot about the meziere pumps, but I don't want to have to cut up my fans so it will fit. Is there a good one that doesn't require trimming? What do you run? And thanks for all your help btw.
You can use the standard flow 118 which is shorter than the HD and from my understanding "minimal" trimming of the fan shroud may be needed. NOT the fans themselves
Back when I did mine I just bought a painless wiring fuel pump relay/fuse and wired it up myself to key on +12v power
There has to be several write-ups on EWP wiring for a F-body, do a search
I use the Meziere HD 118 EWP but I have a B-body so there is not a space problem like F-body.
You can use the standard flow 118 which is shorter than the HD and from my understanding "minimal" trimming of the fan shroud may be needed. NOT the fans themselves
Back when I did mine I just bought a painless wiring fuel pump relay/fuse and wired it up myself to key on +12v power
There has to be several write-ups on EWP wiring for a F-body, do a search
You can use the standard flow 118 which is shorter than the HD and from my understanding "minimal" trimming of the fan shroud may be needed. NOT the fans themselves
Back when I did mine I just bought a painless wiring fuel pump relay/fuse and wired it up myself to key on +12v power
There has to be several write-ups on EWP wiring for a F-body, do a search
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
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From: Orlando Florida
Personally I'm going with a MSD because Ive had bad luck with remanufactured stuff... Plus you can get them for a steal on Craigslist if you look had enough. Getting a barely used one and wires for less than $200!
