Lt1 383 build ebay rotating assembly advice
03-20-2016, 01:26 PM
#1
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Lt1 383 build ebay rotating assembly advice OK, I got on eBay looking for name brand parts and came across this 383 stroker kit. It includes scat crank and 4340 scat rods, Hastings moly rings, king bearings, heavy duty 153 or 168 Roth flex plate, and wiseco forged 10cc RD dish top pistons for $939.50. Does this sound like a decent or what? My plan for the build is hopefully around 500rwhp to push my 95' Chevy single cab short wheel base pickup. I want to do the le3 heads package. I haven't decided if I want to turbo yet but I want 500rwhp to be N/A. Then maybe later on do F/I. In order to reach my goal of 500rwhp what cam and valve train would I need to run? and would my stock ported heads even do the trick? This is my first build and I already had a couple of lt1's laying around so please don't recommend an ls swap I already thought about that and just can't justify spending the money on another motor. I'm probably in over my head but f it gotta learn some time right? Thanks for any input you might have it will be greatly appreciated.
03-20-2016, 01:57 PM
#2
At that price...
Crank is probably cast, would trust the stocker more and build a 355
Rods probably have 3/8" bolts that are ARP 8740, would opt for 7/16" and ARP 2000
The Scat 4340 I-beams are supposed to be pretty strong though
Pistons are probably 4032, usable but less forgiving (15 psi is the safe limit)
With a 383, -10cc dish would need a pretty big chamber or head gasket to keep compression down if you're going FI
If you wanna be cheap then build a 355 with Scat rods and a good forged piston.
Crank is probably cast, would trust the stocker more and build a 355
Rods probably have 3/8" bolts that are ARP 8740, would opt for 7/16" and ARP 2000
The Scat 4340 I-beams are supposed to be pretty strong though
Pistons are probably 4032, usable but less forgiving (15 psi is the safe limit)
With a 383, -10cc dish would need a pretty big chamber or head gasket to keep compression down if you're going FI
If you wanna be cheap then build a 355 with Scat rods and a good forged piston.
03-20-2016, 02:02 PM
#3
Cast aftermarket cranks are junk, either reuse the stocker or spend the money on the forged unit. Also rarely trust any company that sells "balanced" kits.
Also if it comes with a flexplate or flywheel is most likely an externally balanced kit, you'll want an internally balanced kit for a 1 pc rear main seal sbc
Also if it comes with a flexplate or flywheel is most likely an externally balanced kit, you'll want an internally balanced kit for a 1 pc rear main seal sbc
03-20-2016, 05:49 PM
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At that price...
Crank is probably cast, would trust the stocker more and build a 355
Rods probably have 3/8" bolts that are ARP 8740, would opt for 7/16" and ARP 2000
The Scat 4340 I-beams are supposed to be pretty strong though
Pistons are probably 4032, usable but less forgiving (15 psi is the safe limit)
With a 383, -10cc dish would need a pretty big chamber or head gasket to keep compression down if you're going FI
If you wanna be cheap then build a 355 with Scat rods and a good forged piston.
Crank is probably cast, would trust the stocker more and build a 355
Rods probably have 3/8" bolts that are ARP 8740, would opt for 7/16" and ARP 2000
The Scat 4340 I-beams are supposed to be pretty strong though
Pistons are probably 4032, usable but less forgiving (15 psi is the safe limit)
With a 383, -10cc dish would need a pretty big chamber or head gasket to keep compression down if you're going FI
If you wanna be cheap then build a 355 with Scat rods and a good forged piston.
I don't need to be cheep money isn't a thang right now lol I just sold my camaro and got out from under a $600 car payment and $375 insurance so I'm looking at about an extra grand a month to blow. If that assembly isn't what I need I'll keep looking but they claim everything is forged and balanced. Thanks for your advice tho man I appreciate it and any more you may have
03-20-2016, 06:23 PM
#5
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Summit has some LT1 stroker fully forged kits for ~$1600-2200. I'd trust them. And I agree that you should have any kit you buy balanced by a reputable machine shop, they'll be doing the machine work on the block anyway. It's cheap insurance IMO.
03-20-2016, 08:26 PM
#6
500rwhp is a tall order for a NA hydraulic roller 383 on pump gas. It has been done before with M6 but requires a good top end and rotating assembly for high revs which isn't cheap. That is bordering solid roller territory but more street oriented. It also entails high compression which is the opposite of what you'd want for a turbo motor. No way you'd make it there with an auto hydraulic roller.
Figure out what you want the end result to be and build around it. If this is a street car I would build the motor with FI in mind from the beginning. Super high power NA is not street friendly and can be costly.
Scat has some good all forged kits. Find one with a 4340 crank, 4340 rods w/7/16" bolts, and the app will dictate piston choice.
Link to the original rotating assembly?
Figure out what you want the end result to be and build around it. If this is a street car I would build the motor with FI in mind from the beginning. Super high power NA is not street friendly and can be costly.
Scat has some good all forged kits. Find one with a 4340 crank, 4340 rods w/7/16" bolts, and the app will dictate piston choice.
Link to the original rotating assembly?
Last edited by Catmaigne; 03-20-2016 at 08:35 PM.
03-20-2016, 11:20 PM
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500rwhp is a tall order for a NA hydraulic roller 383 on pump gas. It has been done before with M6 but requires a good top end and rotating assembly for high revs which isn't cheap. That is bordering solid roller territory but more street oriented. It also entails high compression which is the opposite of what you'd want for a turbo motor. No way you'd make it there with an auto hydraulic roller.
Figure out what you want the end result to be and build around it. If this is a street car I would build the motor with FI in mind from the beginning. Super high power NA is not street friendly and can be costly.
Scat has some good all forged kits. Find one with a 4340 crank, 4340 rods w/7/16" bolts, and the app will dictate piston choice.
Link to the original rotating assembly?
Figure out what you want the end result to be and build around it. If this is a street car I would build the motor with FI in mind from the beginning. Super high power NA is not street friendly and can be costly.
Scat has some good all forged kits. Find one with a 4340 crank, 4340 rods w/7/16" bolts, and the app will dictate piston choice.
Link to the original rotating assembly?
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03-20-2016, 11:22 PM
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I'm about to check em out right now thanks man
03-21-2016, 11:43 AM
#10
Yep, cast crank and set up for split balance like stock (internal front/external rear). 4340 is the way to go if going aftermarket.
Rods don't mention bolt diameter which means they're 3/8". The 7/16" ARP 2000 I-beams aren't that much more.
There has to be a typo with the pistons because the compression height is too short. The right height for a 3.75" crank and 5.7" rods would be 1.425". Also, 0.040 over is more than it needs to be so stick with 0.030 or below. Less overbore is a good thing. Piston rings are also about as thick as stock. You should use them anyway with FI because the top ring is moly and will flake off quickly.
2618 forged is the racecar alloy and can take more boost than 4032. This is assuming that the piston was designed properly which a thick crown, top land, enough compression height, and the dish or valve reliefs don't come too close to the back of the top ring groove. 2618 has to be looser in the bore so it's more likely to slap when cold and won't go nearly as many miles before losing compression. This is why OEMs always use 4032.
Rods don't mention bolt diameter which means they're 3/8". The 7/16" ARP 2000 I-beams aren't that much more.
There has to be a typo with the pistons because the compression height is too short. The right height for a 3.75" crank and 5.7" rods would be 1.425". Also, 0.040 over is more than it needs to be so stick with 0.030 or below. Less overbore is a good thing. Piston rings are also about as thick as stock. You should use them anyway with FI because the top ring is moly and will flake off quickly.
2618 forged is the racecar alloy and can take more boost than 4032. This is assuming that the piston was designed properly which a thick crown, top land, enough compression height, and the dish or valve reliefs don't come too close to the back of the top ring groove. 2618 has to be looser in the bore so it's more likely to slap when cold and won't go nearly as many miles before losing compression. This is why OEMs always use 4032.
03-25-2016, 09:53 PM
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http://www.jegs.com/i/Scat/942/1-40760BI/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710611096&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CjwKEAjww9 O3BRDp1tq0jIP023YSJAB0-j1SrMCdWEACdJR0JLR7NHdda4dZgDr2pwLZmnnhNCMahhoC7B7 w_wcB
OK what about that one will it do the trick
OK what about that one will it do the trick