What piston rings would i need for lt1 rebuild??
#1
What piston rings would i need for lt1 rebuild??
im making my shopping list to rebuild my lt1 in my 94 camaro! im looking around on jegs for 98% of my things (if you know a better place please tell me) i just want to do a simple rebuild with a good cam. im leaning more towards the cc306 cam. im sure you guys will laugh, but after sitting on you tube an doing a little research i was stuck between a cc306 an a cc503 cam. anyhow, my question is, what size piston rings do i need? im on jegs an its giving me like 8 different options an their all different. im clueless when it comes to all the technical number on the parts.....1st motor rebuild btw lol
#2
im making my shopping list to rebuild my lt1 in my 94 camaro! im looking around on jegs for 98% of my things (if you know a better place please tell me) i just want to do a simple rebuild with a good cam. im leaning more towards the cc306 cam. im sure you guys will laugh, but after sitting on you tube an doing a little research i was stuck between a cc306 an a cc503 cam. anyhow, my question is, what size piston rings do i need? im on jegs an its giving me like 8 different options an their all different. im clueless when it comes to all the technical number on the parts.....1st motor rebuild btw lol
#5
TECH Fanatic
Mahle 41616cp rings are for the factory pistons. I hope you have help with the rebuild. Certain procedures have to be done by a machine shop. Cam bearings, replace rod bolts and resize etc.
#6
Ive found it in my budget to go with a 355 build. Using the stock crank, but updating the pistons an rods to a mahle forged powerpak pistons an scat 4340 forged pro series I beam rods. Now would you guys think I would need to update my injectors with going to a 355?
#7
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
You mentioned that you are stuck between the cc503 and cc306. You could also consider splitting the difference and going with the XE 230/236...It's basically a hotter cc503 that will probably put down very similar if not the same numbers as a cc306 with better drivability and better power under the curve. Just a thought, there's other options as well.
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#8
If you're doing a cam-only 355 then you should be fine. The stock injectors will probably be above the 80% duty cycle just so you are aware. If you plan to port the heads then larger injectors will be necessary.
You mentioned that you are stuck between the cc503 and cc306. You could also consider splitting the difference and going with the XE 230/236...It's basically a hotter cc503 that will probably put down very similar if not the same numbers as a cc306 with better drivability and better power under the curve. Just a thought, there's other options as well.
You mentioned that you are stuck between the cc503 and cc306. You could also consider splitting the difference and going with the XE 230/236...It's basically a hotter cc503 that will probably put down very similar if not the same numbers as a cc306 with better drivability and better power under the curve. Just a thought, there's other options as well.
I think ill take your word on that! I wasnt aware of a cam thats in between the cc306 an the cc503. An I do plan to have the factory heads ported along with going with a 58mm throttle body. Now can I get your opinion on pistons an rods? So far the research that ive done an what peopleS told me is that ill be good to stay with the stock crank, however they highly recommend that I go with forged pistons and rods. I'm not building a full-blown drag car I just want good running weekend warrior that will hold up to me putting my foot into it every now and then. Do you really think going with forged pistons and rods is necessary?
#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
I think ill take your word on that! I wasnt aware of a cam thats in between the cc306 an the cc503. An I do plan to have the factory heads ported along with going with a 58mm throttle body. Now can I get your opinion on pistons an rods? So far the research that ive done an what peopleS told me is that ill be good to stay with the stock crank, however they highly recommend that I go with forged pistons and rods. I'm not building a full-blown drag car I just want good running weekend warrior that will hold up to me putting my foot into it every now and then. Do you really think going with forged pistons and rods is necessary?
I was looking around on Summit and on Comp's website and I no longer see the XE 230/236, it seems like they may have removed it from their lineup. They do have the XFI 230/236 however. You could also consider a custom grind, basically the same price point as the above mentioned cams but more tailored to your needs.
I'm not very knowledgeable on LT1 piston and rods choices so I'll leave that up to the other guys to answer.
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
Since it sounds like you're just wanting something with a little more power, I would use the stock crank (capable of 600+rwhp, ask me how I know) If you keep the rpms low, you could use the stock rods with ARP bolts and probably go back with stock pistons, I dont know the cost difference between but if its not much then of course forged is better, One thing, get a good balance job on the rotating assembly, that will go a long way for longevity.
#12
Since it sounds like you're just wanting something with a little more power, I would use the stock crank (capable of 600+rwhp, ask me how I know) If you keep the rpms low, you could use the stock rods with ARP bolts and probably go back with stock pistons, I dont know the cost difference between but if its not much then of course forged is better, One thing, get a good balance job on the rotating assembly, that will go a long way for longevity.
You hit the nail on the head with just wanting more over all power. Goal is at Least 400rwhp. Id be tickled to death if I seen 450rwhp. But im not sure if its normal or not, the way my motor is now, if I leave a traffic light an hold it to the floor in drive, the car wont shift till almost 6400-6500rpms witch scares the hell out of me considering its all stock...! So with that being said, I want to rebuild it so it can comfortably handle those rpms. Any New suggestions?
#13
OP
Instead of the Comp cam....I would get a custom one from Lloyd Elliott and have him do your heads also. His custom grinds are very little $ more than off the shelf cams and he can set you up with a H/C package suited for your use intent
On the bottom end I would send the block to machine shop for a .030 over bore, new cam bearings, polish stock crank. have stock rods resized and fitted with ARP fasteners. Mahle .030 larger pistons & rings. Of course new rod & main bearings. If you are just staying NA and not going ape shiat with a cam then Hyper pistons would be fine
If you are experienced in engine building, have the tools than go for it. Otherwise have the machine shop just do your short block
get some Ford SVO 30# red top injectors, 52mm TB (stock rebore if you can). A new PCM tune will be needed
your stock fuel pump should be OK but if you find it just can't keep fuel pressure up on "sustained" WOT you will need to put in a 255
Instead of the Comp cam....I would get a custom one from Lloyd Elliott and have him do your heads also. His custom grinds are very little $ more than off the shelf cams and he can set you up with a H/C package suited for your use intent
On the bottom end I would send the block to machine shop for a .030 over bore, new cam bearings, polish stock crank. have stock rods resized and fitted with ARP fasteners. Mahle .030 larger pistons & rings. Of course new rod & main bearings. If you are just staying NA and not going ape shiat with a cam then Hyper pistons would be fine
If you are experienced in engine building, have the tools than go for it. Otherwise have the machine shop just do your short block
get some Ford SVO 30# red top injectors, 52mm TB (stock rebore if you can). A new PCM tune will be needed
your stock fuel pump should be OK but if you find it just can't keep fuel pressure up on "sustained" WOT you will need to put in a 255