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Hey guys. Saw these on Craigslist. These are the old afr 220's right (pre eliminator)? Do they even make newer 220's for the lt? I tried to do some digging but really only have seen info on the new 220's. Impressions?
The 1066 part number identifies this as the AFR 220 LT4 race ready heads. I am running the same heads with comp 943 springs that have been hand ported by Eric Bradby (Joe Overton's porter). The heads work well and have plenty of throttle response on my 383. I am happy with their performance so far but have yet to get the car to the track as the weather has been nasty in the NE for the past 2 months. The few runs I have had felt good but your combo has to be sorted out before bolting on a head like the AFR 220's. Also, you would want shaft mount rockers with those heads as they have a widened pushrod pinch over std sbc heads. Those heads are newer than my castings as they have the nice AFR logo which is from around 2005-2006 so they are not the newest eliminator versions but still a good head for a higher rpm stroker or FI setup.
Do you have any idea on how these flow? I'll have to ask the seller some additional questions such as have they been worked on anymore versus how they came out of the box. I currently have a set of CNC LT 4 heads but those really need to be gone through and get some new springs and possibly lighten up the valvetrain a little for more RPM.
unfortunately, I don't think they come with shaft rockers . I believe they come with aftermarket rockers but I don't think they're shaft.
Do you have any idea on how these flow? I'll have to ask the seller some additional questions such as have they been worked on anymore versus how they came out of the box. I currently have a set of CNC LT 4 heads but those really need to be gone through and get some new springs and possibly lighten up the valvetrain a little for more RPM.
unfortunately, I don't think they come with shaft rockers . I believe they come with aftermarket rockers but I don't think they're shaft.
I have the same heads. They are nasty. The 1066 is the Race Ready 75cc port head.
Their stock flow charts are on the AFR website, but of course those numbers are pretty inflated on a giant bore with big pipe. On an actual stingy machine shop flow bench, @ 8", 4.1" bore, clay fixture, NO pipe or extension at all, and after being milled down to an NA friendly CR(which supposedly hurts flow) my max ported ones flowed 310/230.
On GTPs bench when fresh they were flowed 330/240...not sure if the 20cfm drop was all from the milling I did, or just due to using an independent machine shop flow bench and not a head porters number where they use a 4.155+ bore, extension pipe, etc. . I'd go with a mix of both.
You will not get that type of exh flow out of very many 23* heads, especially not any LTx specific ones.
Do you have any idea on how these flow? I'll have to ask the seller some additional questions such as have they been worked on anymore versus how they came out of the box. I currently have a set of CNC LT 4 heads but those really need to be gone through and get some new springs and possibly lighten up the valvetrain a little for more RPM.
unfortunately, I don't think they come with shaft rockers . I believe they come with aftermarket rockers but I don't think they're shaft.
You will want the shaft mounts for these heads for sure. They will flow in the 285-300 cfm range on the intake and 200-220 on the exhaust. It all depends on the flow bench used and testing parameters. I would not worry to much about the flow numbers. As long as no one hacked them up, they are good heads if you can get them for a decent price. These heads will want a large cam and some rpm for NA applications. My combo pulls to ~7400 and I am running a 5500 stall (cam is 259 267 108lsa ~.650 lift accounting for lash).
You will want the shaft mounts for these heads for sure. They will flow in the 285-300 cfm range on the intake and 200-220 on the exhaust. It all depends on the flow bench used and testing parameters. I would not worry to much about the flow numbers. As long as no one hacked them up, they are good heads if you can get them for a decent price. These heads will want a large cam and some rpm for NA applications. My combo pulls to ~7400 and I am running a 5500 stall (cam is 259 267 108lsa ~.650 lift accounting for lash).
Any numbers on your combo yet? I have the same heads, same cubes, slightly higher lift cam, and also an 8" FTI 5500 but in a glide. Any reason for the 3.70's? Are you spraying? I'm looking at 4.30s with a 28" tire.
Any numbers on your combo yet? I have the same heads, same cubes, slightly higher lift cam, and also an 8" FTI 5500 but in a glide. Any reason for the 3.70's? Are you spraying? I'm looking at 4.30s with a 28" tire.
Sorry for hijack .
Hi Puck,
No numbers yet. I had to fight a lot of stuff getting the car tagged, wiring up the stand alone XFI system into the factory wiring, etc. Just a lot of bugs and little stuff that came up along the way. The engine makes great power and I expect a 10.8ish@125ish N/A setup the way it is for the bottle @3600lb raceweight. I had 2 street runs and the car performed well. On Saturday, I ran my friend's 500rwhp through a th400 11.8-1 408 LSX, trickflow 235's, high 240's duration cam , full suspension, 12 bolt with 3.90's and a 26" tall tire and we were dead even up to ~110mph. His car is about 150-200lbs heavier than mine but his is geared better and makes more power (I know mine is not making 500rwhp through a th400 and 5500 stall). However, I had a tune in the car with the rev limiter was set at 6500 for some reason on that tune. I thought something was wrong with the car as the shift light never came on and I was hitting the limiter (shift light is set at 7200 rpms). My combo makes peak power at 6500 and holds it up to 7400 rpms so I want to try again now that the limiter is set to 7500. Not sure what my friend's car runs so not really sure how to judge it.
The old combo went low 10's and this setup feels high 10's to me the way it is setup. I am temped to throw a 4.33 center section and try it out N/A. I think a 10.3 pass is doable with a set of 4.33's. I am also running a 28" tall tire now so my effective gear ratio is like a 3.42 which is not ideal for this combo N/A. The car should go low 9's on the bottle and possibly a high 8 with a 250-275 hit and that is what the car is setup for now.
I he to get some track times when the weather cooperates. I do not like running when it is 90+ degrees out with a dew point over 70 degrees like it has been in Delaware for the past 8 weeks. I have no use for dyno numbers so the car will be track tuned. Right now it is on a street tune and I still have to work out the part throttle tip in but so far so good. The real PITA is controlling the heat. The exhaust puts off a lot of heat even with ceramic coatings so I had to add a lot of insulation to be able to drive it without it burning to the ground. It was fine in the cold but the first hot day my carpet started to melt on the driver's side by my heel..not good..lol. Like I said, the little bugs that need to be worked out are a pain.
I will post up some numbers once I am able to get it to the track.
When do you think yours will be done? Hit me up if you run into any trouble as I know how it can be with new combos.
No numbers yet. I had to fight a lot of stuff getting the car tagged, wiring up the stand alone XFI system into the factory wiring, etc. Just a lot of bugs and little stuff that came up along the way. The engine makes great power and I expect a 10.8ish@125ish N/A setup the way it is for the bottle @3600lb raceweight. I had 2 street runs and the car performed well. On Saturday, I ran my friend's 500rwhp through a th400 11.8-1 408 LSX, trickflow 235's, high 240's duration cam , full suspension, 12 bolt with 3.90's and a 26" tall tire and we were dead even up to ~110mph. His car is about 150-200lbs heavier than mine but his is geared better and makes more power (I know mine is not making 500rwhp through a th400 and 5500 stall). However, I had a tune in the car with the rev limiter was set at 6500 for some reason on that tune. I thought something was wrong with the car as the shift light never came on and I was hitting the limiter (shift light is set at 7200 rpms). My combo makes peak power at 6500 and holds it up to 7400 rpms so I want to try again now that the limiter is set to 7500. Not sure what my friend's car runs so not really sure how to judge it.
The old combo went low 10's and this setup feels high 10's to me the way it is setup. I am temped to throw a 4.33 center section and try it out N/A. I think a 10.3 pass is doable with a set of 4.33's. I am also running a 28" tall tire now so my effective gear ratio is like a 3.42 which is not ideal for this combo N/A. The car should go low 9's on the bottle and possibly a high 8 with a 250-275 hit and that is what the car is setup for now.
I he to get some track times when the weather cooperates. I do not like running when it is 90+ degrees out with a dew point over 70 degrees like it has been in Delaware for the past 8 weeks. I have no use for dyno numbers so the car will be track tuned. Right now it is on a street tune and I still have to work out the part throttle tip in but so far so good. The real PITA is controlling the heat. The exhaust puts off a lot of heat even with ceramic coatings so I had to add a lot of insulation to be able to drive it without it burning to the ground. It was fine in the cold but the first hot day my carpet started to melt on the driver's side by my heel..not good..lol. Like I said, the little bugs that need to be worked out are a pain.
I will post up some numbers once I am able to get it to the track.
When do you think yours will be done? Hit me up if you run into any trouble as I know how it can be with new combos.
Very nice. It will be a monster on the spray.
I am hoping for bottom 10s/high 9s NA once dialed in...not sure if it will be enough but with the much more NA friendly higher gear, NA cam, and lighter weight I hope so.
My daily got rear ended about a month ago so I started working on a fun little daily beater that I picked up, and am supposed to be buying a house in March so I likely won't be working on the Z again until then.
I will definitely keep you in mind if I have any questions...these type of LT1 builds are few and far between so its nice to be able to pick someones mind. Crazy that your headers were getting that hot, I'm assuming no cats and you are monitoring A/F so its not lean...did you try advancing the timing?
Puck,
The idle dialed in great but needs some fine tweaking. Timing is at 25 degrees at idle and my AF ratio target is 13.5, although my logs are showing it as actually doing 12.5 so I have some fine tuning to do. The exhaust is Hedman 1 7/8" 3.5" collectors that needed lots of mods to fit (I had to get the bottom of the car cut a little on the driver's side to get the headers to fit as they were hitting the jut out near the fuel lines). I did not have any heat shielding on the car as I removed it years ago for weight reduction...lol. So make sure you keep the heat shielding if you plan on cruising the car at all. I used 3 DEI standoff insulation clamps and the DEI stickyback aluminum shielding under the car and on the heater box. The stuff works great as my floor temps were only 109 last Saturday with an outside temp of 95 after 20 minutes of driving and a race. The headers don't glow red or anything, It is just the fitment of them does not leave a lot of room under the car as well as spark plug access.
08-17-2016, 11:19 PM
Can you help me identify these heads? AFR 220's 
. I'd go with a mix of both.