derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys,

Just finished up getting the car all back together after a cc503 cam, new valve-train, and a Yank ss3600 stall. Got the motor all running good finally and everything buttoned up, moved the cars out of the driveway but when I went to back the car out of the driveway . . . it wouldnt move. when i revved up the motor to like 3500 rpms it would kind of start to engage and roll the car. couldnt get it to budge in drive.

I didnt really feel it engage when i shifted into drive or reverse (automatic trans, 4 speed) so the first thing I checked was the shifter linkgage. I was able to confirm that it was moving correcting when I shifted through the gears. When I installed the torque converter I had the whole motor and trans out of the car, so it was a breeze putting everything together. I made sure to put fluid in the converter before putting it on, felt the three clicks, and it snugged up to the flywheel nicely to bolt in.

Knowing the converter is all the way in and the linkage is connected, what else could it be?

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

How much tranny fluid is showing on the stick?

lt1-xjs

Check it. You have to add 2-3 quart for a converter change.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys, you were definitely right, it was very low on fluid. I filled the converter during install and filled the transmission before it put it back in, so I thought it was good. added several more quarts now and I think I am good, car is driving again!!

98CayenneT/A

4l60e's are a bit finicky with the fluid level so be accurate with it and fill it on the high side. About a half quart over the full line to prevent fluid starvation on the 2-3 shift.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

So, how does that converter feel?

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I dont want to totally overfill it so I keep adding a little bit, but then you have to drive the car around and get it warm and all that stuff and then it will still read low, then do it all over again. I will keep filling it until I get a consistent reading though.

The converter feels good, definitely different, but I don’t think I feel the full potential of it yet. I think I am still a little low on fluid so it’s a little non responsive at low RPM’s, like I said above, once I get it fully filled then it should feel better. The other thing is that I have the PCM tuned for 3.73 gears and have not had those installed yet, so while you can feel the pull of the converter, it doesn’t have the right shift points. Once I get those two things figured out I should really be happy!

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Yeah, you will have jacked up shift points for sure.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I can definitely feel it. I will have those installed soon. I drove it yesterday then checked the trans fluid and it was full this time, so I think I finally have that done, but I am still a little surprised at how it feels at cruising speeds, if I am driving at 35 mph and want to speed up to 37 mph, I have to really put my foot in it to get it to move. Same thing when backing out of my garage, it will roll once I put it in gear, but to get over the bump of the transition to my driveway, I really have to give it some gas. Not sure how much of this is normal as I have never driven a car with that high of a stall (yank ss3600) and I also dont know how much that will change with the new gears.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

I can't comment on the Yank that you have specifically, but 3,600 is pretty high so what you are describing sounds normal.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Gotcha, I am figuring all this stuff out, slowly but surely!

lt1-xjs

The SS 3600 is a great converter. I've had mine 13+ years. I'd recommend getting those gears installed asap and then have the car dyno tuned.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

My friend that you are learning on the Fly.

Once you get used to the Sweet Spot of that converter you'll drive like normal

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

So just wanted to provide a quick update . . . I had the 3.73 gears installed and have driven the car many times now. I feel like the gears really "woke up" the converter and pair together nicely. Shift points are now lined up and made a big difference in what I was feeling. The acceleration is much smoother now, definitely way different than stock, but everything feels tight like I would expect it to. Still havent gotten the full experience since I am still breaking in the gears though.

lt1-xjs

I never heard of breaking in the gears. That's the whole point of setting them up correctly in the first place.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

It is what is recommended by Motive and my mechanic, so I am just following their lead. Dont want to develop a whine down the road.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

All of my gear swaps have consisted of different speeds, slow down rates and most of all heat cycling.... My way for that is a trip through town for 20-30 minutes then allow cool sown time for roughly 1 hour (extended lunch break) then go back into traffic with a short run on the highway.
Then hit the track!!!!!!!

BALLSS

IMHO best to follow any "break in" instructions supplied by manufacturer of part.

shop that has done gears for me advised "easy driving" for a few hundred miles ....need a few heat cycles on the gears....YMMV

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I appreciate the input from others on this, but I am just going to follow instructions form the manufacturer and play it safe. Its not a track car and I plant to keep it for the rest of my life so I want to make sure I dont have issues 5 years from now etc.

98CayenneT/A

I have 3.73's in my10 bolt and they are still scary quiet.
I **** pound my car also.

I ran mine through quit a few heat cycles and did tight figure 8's than after 500 miles changed the fluid then let it rip.