ShovelMan

What is the purpose of them?

smitty2919

Holds the "clam shell" halves together before you bolt it into the car.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Yep. You have to drill out the rivets to separate the shells for the new mounts and then zip tie the shells together and then bolt onto the k-member.

ShovelMan

Ah! Here I was thinking the zip ties hold the mounts onto the car (no bolts required).


Thanks!

smitty2919

Oh sweet jesus no...

Please PLEASE make sure you do A LOT of research on anything you do to your car...your comment just scared the crap out of me.

SS RRR I feel like we just saved a life.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I agree!!!




And for those that aren't aware of what mounts the OP is referring to, it's the Energy Suspension polyurethane engine mounts. (when I put those in my car, I actually took the time to source out some bolts with undersized heads, and used them to replace the rivets, and put the "shells" back together)

Dirty_Bird

Only one that needs bolts is the drivers side. The passenger side just needs the zip ties so you can bolt it down to the k member. Still need bolts that go tbrough the mounts though

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

You don't even need the zip ties, the bolts that hold it to the K-member keep them clamped around the mount. The zip ties just make it a little easier to install. I left them off.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Yeah the only purpose of the rivets were to hold the shells together. Nothing more.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

This is why forums are more important than religion, even 8lb 6oz baby jesus wouldn't save someone who held the motor to their car with zip ties.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I agree whole heartedly.............then I read some of the posts on these various discussion topics, and wonder to myself, "HTH could anybody think that's the correct thing to do"???



(in other words, even though there's a lot of good information exchanged, there's also a ton of "BS" that gets passed along as the proper way to do something)

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Funny story. Years ago after installing my engine after a cam bearing fiasco the thing would clunk every time I shut the engine off. My CAI wouldn't stay together either. For the life of me I couldn't figure out why. There were also marks on the hood I couldn't explain. Started poking around and sure enough, the drivers motor mount bolt had come undone and slid out so the thing was tilting like mad whenever I'd accellerate. Took it to the track that way too. Surprised the engine didn't come out of the hood.

ACE1252

Hehe, that is a good one.

This is not quite as good, but after I did the LS1 brake swap, I was driving down I40(with traffic...so you can guess the speed), hit my exit, and heard this incredible grinding coming from the right front when I hit the brakes.

I pulled into a gas station to look at it. I didn't see anything obvious....however on closer inspection, the caliper looked a little funny. I got to poking at it and found the bottom of it was unbolted from the spindle....so when I would hit the brakes, it would kick out to the inside of the wheel. It machined a nice groove in the middle of the wheel where the caliper edge was smacking it.

Apparently, I forgot to torque the bottom caliper bolt and it worked it's way out to the point of falling out. Certainly one of my duh moments.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

When I first got my Camaro I did all the front suspension and didn't know enough about castle nuts. For some reason I thought you were not supposed to crank them down, I thought the codder pin held them on. So I pretty much only finger tightened my castle nuts on the tie rods, ball joints etc, put the pin in, and drove 500 miles to WV, then went to get an alignment and the guy goes "I don't know what retard only finger tightened all these castle nuts but they should be shot, you could have been killed", and I go "yea **** that guy.."

ShovelMan

I think I may have done that before too. Also have you ever seen a cotter pin break? It happened to me and after some miles of driving the castle nut loosened itself to the point that there was slack between the steering knuckle and the tie rod end. Clunk! Nothing broke but I caught it during regular lubing/maintenance.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

I had a beater truck that had one motor mount sheared off, it would move around pretty good in the engine bay. I also had another vehicle that sheared off the locating pin for the axle to leaf ubolts and the entire axle would shift depending on if you were braking or accelerating.

I used the zip ties to keep my engine ground and starter hot tucked up and away from my headers.