M/T's and a M6, will it survive???
 

I'm using these 255 50 16 M/T et street drag radials on my m6 for a few runs this October. Will the 10 bolt hold?

Making around 320-330rwhp with bolt ons and 215/224 cam. Im going to be just slipping the clutch at maybe 2500rpm then punching it down the track once the clutch engages. No 5k clutch dumps!!!!
Rear mods are: lca's, relo brackets, panhard bar, bilstein shocks, rear end differential cover with bearing support, driveshaft loop. I need to weld the axle tubes if we get time.

Hoping for some decent e.t's and traps with cooler fall air.
Ran 14.2 @ 101 stockish.

do some test runs, launching from idle or just just sipping the clutch, check in the drag race section

OP

your technique is a safe approach

But this is something that is going to take a few passes to find the sweet spot without carnage......sometimes a line you cross before you know where it is.

As noted starting off idle and increasing RPM and clutch slip. What you don't want to do is over rev and slip the clutch to much

also track conditions play a big part so what worked one day at one track does not necessarily translate to the next day/track

you will also play with tire pressure and burnout length. Burnouts heat the tires AND raise tire pressure...so factor that in.

It should. Really depends on your launch rpm. Ive been using ET streets on my m6 car for years w/4.10 gears. If you can get your 60' down to a 1.8-1.7 you'll be doing good.

Thanks guys. Best 60ft i got on street tires was 2.2. Im hoping for at least 1.9-2.0. It will be nice not smoking first and 2nd gear down the track. I'm guessing just a quick burnout for these tires because they are really soft rubber.
I have the stock 342 gears, launching will take some practice.

The very first thing I bought for my car was a girdle cover! This is a must if you want it to last for a "while." Even on a stock motor.

if you are going to be doing 1/4 drag racing, install a line lock.

There are success stories about the 10 bolt and of course the inevitable stories about "CARNAGE"
I myself had good luck with the 3.42s for a while however, I wanted MORE..... 3.90- 4.56 is what's needed, I had gone with 4.10s and they were trashed in 3 months, 35-4500 rpm launches killed those 4.10s.
Safe to say if $$ is a factor read up on all of the 8.8 write ups and get yourself one, it is well worth the time. My 8.8 had countless passes without failure and now it's about to be under my newest creation.
The factory 10 bolt is a time bomb and it does NOT matter what you do to it simply because the ring and pinion are too small and they fight each other, chewing teeth off until the ring gear has broken teeth and the pinion gear is shredded... all that girdle, aftermarket axle crap is wasted money.

I got a pair of used slicks for my car and tried launching it properly from mostly stock-ish form, and I'm not sure if it was just old tires or if it was my driving, but I could never get them to dead hook. I adjusted my technique to involve revving it to about 3500, let the clutch grab a little, then dump it and floor the gas. I was able to pull a 1.9 60' in 90* weather doing this.
Side note, the clutch had a ton of miles on it and needed replaced so I drove it accordingly.

PyroguyFTW, what mid length headers did you have that ran 13.5?

I had a pair of Pacesetters. I really don't know what all was done to my engine by the PO, but I know it was a strong runner. The only mods I was able to confirm on it were a Moroso CAI, the headers, a crush bent dual 2.5" system that was choking it off pretty good, and a tune. Also, b-body heads. Not sure what the story behind that was, but I'm assuming the PO blew the old engine, and replaced it. Definitely wasn't cammed, I always got my best times shifting at 5750 indicated rpm.

Street drags? You'll be fine. At least on my 10 I've done lots of street/racing/track passes including running drag bags with full drag suspension and battery relocation. The front end is light as a mofo and the rear hooks like a mofo. You'll be good just don't do any crazy high rpm clutch dumps that how guys end up breaking their 10 bolt even if they don't want to admit it.

What killed my 10 in the end wasn't even the racing it was taking it to a s----y so called local speed shop to install my 4:10's. (Should of done it myself but didn't have the tools or access to a lift at the time) The guy must of been drunk or high or something he screwed up the rear end badly had it whining and shuddering and leaking gear oil and crap the rear was never the same. Glad that shop went out of business. :mad:

but you should be cool OP have fun with you car! ;)

Drag Bags

and the drag bags were probably the cheapest most effective mod I've ever done to the suspension literally night and day. You can get your car to squat hard with them and when I mean squat I mean break your neck kind of take offs. The best part is that all you have to do is deflate them when you're done and enjoy your nice soft suspension again and pump air back into them for the next time at the track or meetup. There was a time in my life when I used to keep secrets like these but who cares now.

What kills driveline parts is shock to the driveline. Doesn't matter what RPM you launch, if you let the clutch out aggressively the 10-bolt will eventually break whether it be on the street or track. Just the nature of the beast with a component not meant to handle the torque output.

:lol:
Secrets... you and about everyone else who raced f-bodys or read message boards knew about bags. The real secret was only one was needed on the passenger rear instead of both.

I've beat on a few drag bags myself. Leave em bloody and leaking.

Ha, sure now they do but not in the olden days. Now nothings sacred anymore thanks to the internet. Welp..at least I'll always have my trophy to remember the good old days.
http://cdn.quotesgram.com/small/56/2...k-high-850.jpg

Yes they did. That used to be all over f-body forums. Another one was the installation of V6 shocks to make the car squat when launching.

Thanks Heatmaker, I'm thinking the same. No nasty high rpm clutch drops and theres hope! Its got the 342 gears so they are def bigger than 410's too.
SSRRR, i agree constant torque on the drivetrain will kill it eventually. I have been pissing on my 10 bolt for 31k miles now, and the rear is still quite. I always just let the clutch engage at the strip then floor it. My first to second gear shift puts a nasty torque hit to the rear, that may be the deal maker someday!

Nah. Since you're already rolling the 1/2 shift isn't that bad compared to being at a total standstill and popping the clutch.

Back in 2003?

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...g-bags-198820/

Couple pics of my "built" rear end lol. At least i have a rear cover that has bearing support. Now if i had a welder to weld the axle tubes maybe it would hold 325rwhp somewhat reliably.
SSRRR, did you run your ten bolt when you had ported heads and that lingenfelter cam? Think you ran low 12s.