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While going through deleting EVAP/EGR parts last night, my dumb *** nicked the 3/8" fuel line while cutting the plastic sleeve that holds the feed/return/EVAP purge with a razor.
I have already taken front wheel off, removed inner fender liner and traced everything under the car.
I'm not looking to go nuts with AN fittings and braided lines. I would like to re-route them over the brake booster. My thought was to cut off the OEM quick disconnects that attach to the motor, shorten the lines (past where I nicked the feed line) and reattach a new quick disconnect fitting.
Looks like these fittings are simply a press fit?? Anyone have experience/tips for doing this? I see YT videos of just heating the end of the lines and shoving new fittings in??
These lines are prebent and do not respond well to being rearranged so drastically and can cause weak spots.
To safely do this it will cost some money but to replace the old weather beaten lines drom under the drivers seat to the fuel rail behind the booster to the rail has of course been done. I think i spent 125.00 iirc
The plan (until I really measure) was to cut maybe 2 ft off the stock lines (on the fuel rail side) then drill a new hole by the booster and run lines up over and down to fuel rail. They will follow same relative path in the fender. Obviously replace the QD fittings with new ones.
I'm not about to keep the lines stock length and put a giant loop in the lines then stuff it in the fender. That's the half-assed way of doing it IMO
I have done the nylon repair on my daily driver after a squirrel ate through one of my lines and almost burnt my car to the ground when I drove it down the road. I used a heat gun and push fit the nylon repair kit onto the barbed end. I also used a hose clamp afterwords as I did not trust the slip fit nature but it has been over a year and it has worked fine. Be careful using a heat gun around gas lines!!! I disconnected the lines from the car. You can also use boiling water (I could not get it to work as good as it was only 30 degrees out when I did my repair).
Napa has the lines to repair it. It's cheap. I did my entire fuel system, rails to tank on my Buick for less than 50 bucks in parts. I did buy the dorman tool to press the line on the fitting though. I think that was 60 bucks. It is not advised to use heat to install the lines. There is a work around using a caulking gun to press the line onto the fitting if you don't want to buy the tool but use at your own risk. The tool has paid for itself as I use it at work also.
I shortened my lines to go into a regulator for my carbed genI conversion. Used the correct size push locks and some creative thinking with a heavy duty epoxy type caulk gun. Cut a slit in the gun so the line would fit, used my mastercool flair tool dies and a small vice grip to hold the line in place and just took my time pushing the fitting into the line, guiding it straight, no heat, no fuss. Then used my mastercool tool to make some push-loc flairs on 3/8" brake line, slides in locks in place and used a 3/8" double flair to pipe adapters to hook to the regulator. No leaks, no fuss.
I did the fuel line relocation on mine, instead of going over to an line i bought some nylon surr line and fittings from summit, ran me about 120. I drilled in bellow the booster where theres a 1/4 hole already, the metal is paper thin there
Thanks for the replies. I'm swinging by parts store tonight and grab some metal quick disconnects and compression clamps. I don't see a reason not to vs plastic.
Good thing the stock lines are so damn long. Gives you options to reroute them without replacing everything.
Nicked the feed line right in the bend of the two lines.
This is not going well AT ALL. 3/8" fitting went fine but the 5/16" line keeps buckling no matter how I try to install it.
SOOOO, F IT. I'm going AN lines. I see a 6AN is good for out 3/8" feed line, but what AN size for our 5/16" return line?? Next one down on charts I see are 4AN which is 1/4"
Haven't messed with AN fitting/lines much sony helps appreciated.
You will then have to use these same adapters to tie into the factory fuel lines so you need 2 of each.
It will make it easier to only use one hose size as well. You will want to use a conductive ptfe hose. Racetronix sells the hose for a very reasonable price as well as the fittings needed to for the hose. The hose is better than OEM quality and will not deteriorate with ethanol based fuels.
Fastbird already makes a kit for the fuel line relocation on our cars. I don't have his, I have the Speed Inc one, which they don't make anymore, but I've heard good things about his.
You will then have to use these same adapters to tie into the factory fuel lines so you need 2 of each.
It will make it easier to only use one hose size as well. You will want to use a conductive ptfe hose. Racetronix sells the hose for a very reasonable price as well as the fittings needed to for the hose. The hose is better than OEM quality and will not deteriorate with ethanol based fuels.
Hell yes, that’s awesome. Thank you. I found some Vibeant fittings as well that go from 6AN to 3/8 and 5/16. So I’ll plan to run 6AN lines for feed and trturn.
Originally Posted by Spartan7
Fastbird already makes a kit for the fuel line relocation on our cars. I don't have his, I have the Speed Inc one, which they don't make anymore, but I've heard good things about his.
Fittings should arrive Tuesday. Friend of mine had Racetronix e85 capable black line laying around. Eventually my car will see E85 so might as well start building for it.
Vibrant 16885 (qty2), 16886 (qty2) and 21006 (qty4).
Progress so far. Stock lines are out and hole drilled ready for new stuff to go in.
Stock lines out
Hole drilled in fender from bottom
Same hole from the top
Added wire loom to protect fuel lines
Last edited by smitty2919; 10-30-2017 at 08:20 AM.
10-25-2017, 08:01 AM
Repairing fuel line in engine bay 
