LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

safe to spray 383 stroker with cast crank?

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Old 12-12-2017, 08:54 AM
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Default safe to spray 383 stroker with cast crank?

hi so i was looking to spray my 383 lt1 with a 100-125 shot of nitrous but i have people telling me its a bad idea because of my crankshaft being cast steel.... im running forged EAGLE FSI rods, forged pistons, and obviously cast steel crank.. my compression is 11 to 1 and i need help with deciding.. should i change my redline so it would be safer ? thanks
Old 12-12-2017, 10:17 AM
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well in the words of Dirty Harry......."you feeling lucky ...."

Not "all" Eagle cast cranks will fail but a significant #, compared to other cast crank brands, has....including mine and it was a NA motor.

So....you feeling lucky?

because if you do experience crank failure the carnage will be significant and likely take the block and everything in it out
Old 12-12-2017, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ******
well in the words of Dirty Harry......."you feeling lucky ...."

Not "all" Eagle cast cranks will fail but a significant #, compared to other cast crank brands, has....including mine and it was a NA motor.

So....you feeling lucky?

because if you do experience crank failure the carnage will be significant and likely take the block and everything in it out

its not an eagle crank. i was told by my machine shop the crank will handle 600hp . also the rotating assembly i chose just came out not to long ago.. atleast thats what i was told.
Old 12-12-2017, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe Soucy
its not an eagle crank. i was told by my machine shop the crank will handle 600hp . .
what brand is the crank?

Not every cast crank has issues but there have been so many reports of failure that the "risk" to it happening on a power adder motor is there and higher than a NA motor. You may be fine but having already gone through a cast crank failure that took out the block...I defer to forged

If the motor makes 400 RWHP that's about 460 at the crank...add 125 shot you get VERY close to 600 crank HP....so if your machine shop is right on "it's good for 600 hp"....that is taking that cranks abilities right to the line on every WOT NOS hit at 6k+ rpms
Old 12-12-2017, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ******
what brand is the crank?

Not every cast crank has issues but there have been so many reports of failure that the "risk" to it happening on a power adder motor is there and higher than a NA motor. You may be fine but having already gone through a cast crank failure that took out the block...I defer to forged

If the motor makes 400 RWHP that's about 460 at the crank...add 125 shot you get VERY close to 600 crank HP....so if your machine shop is right on "it's good for 600 hp"....that is taking that cranks abilities right to the line on every WOT NOS hit at 6k+ rpms

i told my machine shop i wanna go with a forged crank instead.. so then that would put me at fully forged and i should be fine. i dont feel like playing the guessing game with my motor. im running icon pistons btw too.. so there decent but everything should be good to go right ?
also im gonna go with the forged eagle crank because i guess there forged crank vs there cast crank are worlds apart lol
Old 12-12-2017, 11:49 AM
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a forged crank would be better if you are going to spray. IDK anything about icon pistons. Not saying they are bad, I just don't know anything about that brand

I would, and did, go 4 bolt mains on my build though.

with NOS you want your fuel system and tune for it to be spot on.
Old 12-12-2017, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ******
a forged crank would be better if you are going to spray. IDK anything about icon pistons. Not saying they are bad, I just don't know anything about that brand

I would, and did, go 4 bolt mains on my build though.

with NOS you want your fuel system and tune for it to be spot on.
ill be running 30 lb trick flow injectors with a 255 walb. fuel pump..
Old 12-13-2017, 02:30 AM
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A buddies car had a Scat cast crank, stock '93 rods with and a set of TRW pistons, was a budget 383 set up, small cam (CC305), but had two stages, 300 in total. One plate, another in the fender with a nozzle in the cold air. That car lived to tell about it for many years. I wouldn't see it being an issue.
Old 12-13-2017, 04:24 AM
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The other "do it now" if your planning on nitrous is make sure he gaps the rings for nitrous. The rings expand under the increased cylinder pressure and if they butt up together, they lift and break the ring land off the piston, and bye bye shortblock, heads, cam, everything. Also if your getting in there now, add at least ARP main studs, I've heard of factory 2 bolts starting to show flex with stock bolts approaching 600 fwhp. A cast scat crank "might" survive, but a cast stick GM crank is stronger, good choice on going forged for added insurance. If you do 4 bolt splayed main caps and gap the rings right, it should survive whatever you want to throw at it.

Old 12-13-2017, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by bufmatmuslepants
The other "do it now" if your planning on nitrous is make sure he gaps the rings for nitrous. The rings expand under the increased cylinder pressure and if they butt up together, they lift and break the ring land off the piston, and bye bye shortblock, heads, cam, everything. Also if your getting in there now, add at least ARP main studs, I've heard of factory 2 bolts starting to show flex with stock bolts approaching 600 fwhp. A cast scat crank "might" survive, but a cast stick GM crank is stronger, good choice on going forged for added insurance. If you do 4 bolt splayed main caps and gap the rings right, it should survive whatever you want to throw at it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AScojLj139A

what should i have him gap the rings at?
Old 12-13-2017, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bufmatmuslepants
The other "do it now" if your planning on nitrous is make sure he gaps the rings for nitrous.
also if he gaps them for nitrous will the motor be fine to run without it? meaning like the ring gap will still run good when its off the bottle?
Old 12-13-2017, 10:15 AM
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From AERA Engine Builders:
Application Top Ring Second Ring Oil Ring Rail
High Performance Street NA Bore x 0.0045" Bore x 0.0040" Min 0.015"
Circle Track, Drag Racing NA Bore x 0.0050" Bore x 0.0060" Min 0.015"
Nitrous up to 25HP/cyl Bore x 0.0060" Bore x 0.0050" Min 0.015"
Nitrous over 25HP/cyl Bore x 0.0070" Bore x 0.0070" Min 0.015"

a clearance of .024" (up to a 200 shot) will have no noticeable effect on NA power.

sorry, the formatting didn't paste properly, but I think you can decipher it.

Last edited by bowtienut; 12-13-2017 at 07:24 PM.
Old 12-13-2017, 02:51 PM
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Billet main caps should be something to seriously consider. Friend of mine did a 383, skimped out on caps, sprayed a 150 shot and cracked all inner caps in half.
Old 12-13-2017, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
Billet main caps should be something to seriously consider. Friend of mine did a 383, skimped out on caps, sprayed a 150 shot and cracked all inner caps in half.
should i be concerned though if i dont get caps ? i thought stock caps would be fine .. id probs be spraying 100-125 shot anyways
Old 12-13-2017, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Soucy
should i be concerned though if i dont get caps ? i thought stock caps would be fine .. id probs be spraying 100-125 shot anyways
you should be "concerned" if you don't get a forged crank and 4 bolt mains.....IMHO
Old 12-13-2017, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ******
you should be "concerned" if you don't get a forged crank and 4 bolt mains.....IMHO

im gonna be going with a forged crank but am gonna be with the 2 bolt main stil,l because my compression will be at 11.1
Old 12-13-2017, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Soucy
im gonna be going with a forged crank but am gonna be with the 2 bolt main stil,l because my compression will be at 11.1
forged crank...good!
but....the rest of your statement makes no sense at all. If you won't do 4 bolt splayed, AT LEAST give yourself a fighting chance and stud the mains.
Old 12-13-2017, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bowtienut
forged crank...good!
but....the rest of your statement makes no sense at all. If you won't do 4 bolt splayed, AT LEAST give yourself a fighting chance and stud the mains.
no your right it doesnt lol what i was trying to say was that if my compression was any higher id go with a 4 bolt main but its gonna be 11.1 so im gonna stick with the 2 bolt for now. and yes ill be using studs...
Old 12-13-2017, 10:24 PM
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Stud the mains.
Old 12-14-2017, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe Soucy
no your right it doesnt lol what i was trying to say was that if my compression was any higher id go with a 4 bolt main but its gonna be 11.1 so im gonna stick with the 2 bolt for now. and yes ill be using studs...
Bowtienut is one of the guys who have seen evidence of cap main flex on a 2 bolt block at 600fwhp, but I can't remember if that was with studs or without. Do you have any pictures?


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