TheBoostGuru

Alright due to me searching for hours a day and for numerous weeks and finding not even a half descent or thorough answer I’ve descided to start a thread to get some questions answered. So to start things out I’ll simply state my goals, I’m carb swapping my 5.7L LT1 (have what I need to do this) and I would like to rev it up to atleast 6,500rpm on a Stock head soon to be ported, I am forging the internals, Crank, Rods, Pistons, complete rebuild with 10.4:1 CR on the 160k motor and I don’t want anymore than 500hp to the wheels and that’s still a bit high due to it going into a Nissan 240sx (I want to slide while probably banging off the rev limiter), I simply want the most reliable moderately high rpm engine I can build. Now to the questions with everything on the table I’d like to know of a good camshaft for these goals where the power and torque curve will match the rpm range I want to be playing around in, whether it be an entire kit or just the bump stick itself? If no kit fits my needs I’d like some help finding valvetrain components to support this engine rpm without failure of any sorts, no trouble just pure fun. I’d also like some enlightenment on whether I should reinforce the 2-bolt main with a girdle of some sort and if so I’d like to know where I can find a girdle that would require little to no modification but I’m not afraid to get my hands dirty so if I must modify one then I will. Should I invest in new reinforced main caps, upgraded bearings over the stock ones that came with the rebuild kit, I’m obviously investing in the proper bolts (ARP hardware etc.. etc..) so keep that in mind, is there any other things I should be thinking about? What am I’m going to need to do to this Engine to achieve that HP number of at most 500 wheel and that high of an RPM safely for hours on end of abuse? I’m not giving a price limitation because I’m willing to invest some cash in this thing to get what I want out of it safely!

BALLSS

500 RWHP from a carb motor at 6500 rpm...You will want 4 bolt main caps. The block can be machined for them. Yeah all forged rotating assembly

Might want to contact Lloyd at Elliott Portworks about a H/C package for your build intent and your intended 10.4:1 (why?) CR

You may want to consider shaft mounted RR

Sustained 6500 RPM and "bumping off a rev limiter" (assume some ignition box to set rev limiter) as you are sliding around a track your oiling system and pan will need attention

TheBoostGuru

Yes i will be using an MSD 6al ignition box and I’ve looked into the oil system, sikky makes oil pan kits that are intended for this purpose to avoid oil starvation and oil sloshing around and it fits the swap. as I said 500 is the absolute limit of what I’d want, I’d be extremely happy with a tad bit over 400 and that rpm since the car will be so light, I just want a high Revving V8 that I can reliably drift with few issues and would the 4 bolt be absolutely necessary with this application or like I was curious about would a main girdle suffice, if it is necessary would it be a better option to go with a straight or splayed 4 bolt main conversion (I’ve gotten misinformation about both so I was hoping to avoid it if possible) and about the CR what do you think would fit this high revving engine best it’s just what I’ve been previously running on various set ups and I didn’t think about it, never revved anything this high but I got bit by the RPM bug awhile back in my buddies 350z 7,000rpm V8 so here I am (he blew it up quickly that’s why I haven’t ask him about it) and I appreciate the information.

BALLSS

My $.02 would be to do 4 bolt mains on a motor that will see way longer sustained 6k+ rpms than a 1/4 mi motor or street car if you are building a 500 rwhp motor. Straight 4 bolt is fine Not really big $ for the shop to do it.

Stock LT1 compression is 10.9 and many H/C builds are 11.3-.5. The LT1 is reverse cooling heads so more compression can be run vs Gen 1 SBC. There are builds in the 12.xx on these motors

400-425 RWHP is WAY easier to make and a good H/C package with the right tune. In your case carb size and timing vs computer controlled FI LT1. That HP range using 7/16" RR studs and Comp Ultra Pro Mag RR and guide plates will be fine. Guide plates. I like the ISKY adjustable. You could use the stock crank and have the rods resized and use ARP fasteners for a 400 ish HP motor. Stock cast crank is very strong.

Lloyd Elliott is someone to discuss the H/C with. He will spec springs also

TheBoostGuru

You sir have helped me out a lot, much appreciated. I’m sure I’ll have some other questions as my build progresses