Someone double check my parts list - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion



LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Someone double check my parts list

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Old 02-13-2018, 05:24 AM   #1
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Default Someone double check my parts list

I compiled this list from searching, I just want to order everything at the same time and confirm that I'm not missing anything. This will be my first cam swap and i've decided to go with the cc503 cam and keep the heads stock. is there anything else I need or anything on this list I don't really need? I wasn't sure about the timing chain but it seems like most people say just to replace it while you're in there.


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Old 02-13-2018, 06:54 AM   #2
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Is the timing set double or single roller?

looks pretty complete to me minus fluids and a tune
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:01 AM   #3
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Man, seeing it listed out like that makes it seem so much more manageable. Here comes that itch again.. Without hijacking, my I ask how many miles you've got on the motor?

Other things to consider, that I've hear below.
Certainly not necessary but never hurt:
- Water Pump
- Opti.
- Are you going to replace the lifters while you're in there?
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Old 02-13-2018, 12:40 PM   #4
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I know the cam says LT1/LT4, but you'll need a long dowel pin that extends past the timing gear. For the vented opti I believe the maximum length from cam snout to tip of dowel pin is no more than .650". Be mindful of that. If it's longer and you bolt the opti down it will wear the bearing in the opti down and play along with carnage will shortly ensue.
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Originally Posted by nodnarb481 View Post
Certainly not necessary but never hurt:
- Water Pump
- Opti.
Because of today's horrendous aftermarket with opti and w/p, don't replace unless they're broke.
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Old 02-13-2018, 05:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myltwon View Post
Is the timing set double or single roller?

looks pretty complete to me minus fluids and a tune
Single Roller. Still deciding on what I want to do for tune. Mail order more than likely, just not sure who's still in the game these days.
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Old 02-13-2018, 05:03 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by SS RRR View Post
I know the cam says LT1/LT4, but you'll need a long dowel pin that extends past the timing gear. For the vented opti I believe the maximum length from cam snout to tip of dowel pin is no more than .650". Be mindful of that. If it's longer and you bolt the opti down it will wear the bearing in the opti down and play along with carnage will shortly ensue.

Because of today's horrendous aftermarket with opti and w/p, don't replace unless they're broke.
This will be my first cam swap so I'm not too familiar with that your referring to, unfortunately.
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:16 PM   #7
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You don't need that double spring kit. The Howards 98215 is a drop in spring and will save you $ 110, just leave the damper out. I doubt you need the pushrods either with the self aligning rockers.
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Old 02-14-2018, 04:49 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by lt1-xjs View Post
You don't need that double spring kit. The Howards 98215 is a drop in spring and will save you $ 110, just leave the damper out. I doubt you need the pushrods either with the self aligning rockers.
Agreed on the springs.....and agreed on the pushrods as long as your current rods aren't bent.

But this is only from the perspective of saving money.

Absolutely nothing wrong in using the springs and pushrods that you've listed.

KW
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:44 AM   #9
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Poly Locks for the RR or do they come with the kit..
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slikrider20 View Post
This will be my first cam swap so I'm not too familiar with that your referring to, unfortunately.
The cam dowel pin is to used as a reference on how the cam timing gear goes onto the cam snout AND it also is supposed to be longer on '96-'97 cars because the opti is different and is used to drive the optispark.
Hopefully you do your homework before starting this, then. You need to be very careful when taking out the old cam and stabbing the new one. If you haven't already, get three bolts that fit into the timing gear holes on the cam snout that are 3" long. This will give you leverage when taking out/installing new cam so it's not flailing all over the place inside the block which can then gouge the cam bearings. Make sure to cover the oil pan. Once you take the timing cover off the oil pan will stick out terribly and acts as a catch all for any sort of debris on the engine that can make way into the pan and onto the oil pickup. Keep your work area as clean as possible. Make sure to use either 30wt oil or cam lube and apply to journals and lobes liberally.
Use this site as a reference- www.shbox.com
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:17 AM   #11
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Lifters as someone else mentioned. If they are original and depending on the mileage of the car but it is good to think about.
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Old 02-14-2018, 11:41 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KW Baraka View Post
Agreed on the springs.....and agreed on the pushrods as long as your current rods aren't bent.

But this is only from the perspective of saving money.

Absolutely nothing wrong in using the springs and pushrods that you've listed.

KW
So with those springs I just take the inside damper out and I can reuse all the stock retainers, locks, etc?
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:43 AM   #13
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So with those springs I just take the inside damper out and I can reuse all the stock retainers, locks, etc?
Yes, it uses all the stock hardware. Gives you 130# on the seat and is rated to .600" lift.
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:05 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt1-xjs View Post
Yes, it uses all the stock hardware. Gives you 130# on the seat and is rated to .600" lift.
Perfect. Il go that route then! Thanks guys.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:37 PM   #15
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Also with most dual coil aftermarket springs you will need to change the style of valve seal from the umbrella style
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