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I compiled this list from searching, I just want to order everything at the same time and confirm that I'm not missing anything. This will be my first cam swap and i've decided to go with the cc503 cam and keep the heads stock. is there anything else I need or anything on this list I don't really need? I wasn't sure about the timing chain but it seems like most people say just to replace it while you're in there.
Man, seeing it listed out like that makes it seem so much more manageable. Here comes that itch again.. Without hijacking, my I ask how many miles you've got on the motor?
Other things to consider, that I've hear below.
Certainly not necessary but never hurt:
- Water Pump
- Opti.
- Are you going to replace the lifters while you're in there?
I know the cam says LT1/LT4, but you'll need a long dowel pin that extends past the timing gear. For the vented opti I believe the maximum length from cam snout to tip of dowel pin is no more than .650". Be mindful of that. If it's longer and you bolt the opti down it will wear the bearing in the opti down and play along with carnage will shortly ensue.
Originally Posted by nodnarb481
Certainly not necessary but never hurt:
- Water Pump
- Opti.
Because of today's horrendous aftermarket with opti and w/p, don't replace unless they're broke.
I know the cam says LT1/LT4, but you'll need a long dowel pin that extends past the timing gear. For the vented opti I believe the maximum length from cam snout to tip of dowel pin is no more than .650". Be mindful of that. If it's longer and you bolt the opti down it will wear the bearing in the opti down and play along with carnage will shortly ensue.
Because of today's horrendous aftermarket with opti and w/p, don't replace unless they're broke.
This will be my first cam swap so I'm not too familiar with that your referring to, unfortunately.
You don't need that double spring kit. The Howards 98215 is a drop in spring and will save you $ 110, just leave the damper out. I doubt you need the pushrods either with the self aligning rockers.
You don't need that double spring kit. The Howards 98215 is a drop in spring and will save you $ 110, just leave the damper out. I doubt you need the pushrods either with the self aligning rockers.
Agreed on the springs.....and agreed on the pushrods as long as your current rods aren't bent.
But this is only from the perspective of saving money.
Absolutely nothing wrong in using the springs and pushrods that you've listed.
This will be my first cam swap so I'm not too familiar with that your referring to, unfortunately.
The cam dowel pin is to used as a reference on how the cam timing gear goes onto the cam snout AND it also is supposed to be longer on '96-'97 cars because the opti is different and is used to drive the optispark.
Hopefully you do your homework before starting this, then. You need to be very careful when taking out the old cam and stabbing the new one. If you haven't already, get three bolts that fit into the timing gear holes on the cam snout that are 3" long. This will give you leverage when taking out/installing new cam so it's not flailing all over the place inside the block which can then gouge the cam bearings. Make sure to cover the oil pan. Once you take the timing cover off the oil pan will stick out terribly and acts as a catch all for any sort of debris on the engine that can make way into the pan and onto the oil pickup. Keep your work area as clean as possible. Make sure to use either 30wt oil or cam lube and apply to journals and lobes liberally.
Use this site as a reference- www.shbox.com
Ordered everything in the cart in the OP with the 98215 Howard Springs and without pushrods. Ended up only being 750 shipped. Not too bad! Can't wait to start the install. Will post pics here as I go.
Check that: Found the rocker arms on Amazon for only 127 bucks. Over half of what other sites want. Winning! Only 625 shipped!
more than likely chinese knock offs. noy saying they’ll fail, but use at your own risk.
before installing roll the trunnions and bearings to ensure they are smooth. check the rocker bodys carefully as well.
Also with most dual coil aftermarket springs you will need to change the style of valve seal from the umbrella style
regarding the Lunati kit the OP first noted...they are "plug & play" for the LT1 and a VERY good spring kit. Better than the Howards....yes you do get what you pay for.
Recommended to use new lifters on a new cam.
Inspect the used ones VERY carefully if re-using. If rollers are not "perfect" even, smooth surface than replace with new
while stock PR "length" is likely OK....a thicker wall (.080) PR would be recommended. The stockers can flex more than you think at the higher RPM's the new cam and springs will allow the engine to make power...especially with SA RR
I would have gone with 7/16" RR studs and 1:6 NSA using guide plates (ISKY)
IMHO valve train is one area NEVER to cheap out on.
02-13-2018, 04:24 AM
Someone double check my parts list 
