New drivetrain parts - Big boy T56+Monster Triple Disc Clutch
06-10-2018, 02:33 PM
#1
New drivetrain parts - Big boy T56+Monster Triple Disc Clutch As I seem to intro all of my posts, it's been a while but I'm still around. This time to detail plans for a new drivetrain while offering up my old parts for sale.
The procharged LTx has been running well so I figured why not try a roll racing event. I still prefer the drag strip but the longer track and higher speeds interested me. The event was not well managed but certainly brought all the instagram "hot" cars. On my last run, I went for a 3-4 shift, .the car went sideways but thankfully I kept it together. I didn't miss the shift so I'm not quite sure what happened. In any event, the trans still went into all the gears but felt noticeably notchy. The clutch hydraulics were gone through completely a few weeks prior including a new tick master and exedy slave. Driving around town with some spirited pulls felt fine so again, not sure what changed. The clutch and hydraulics checked out just fine so I am thinking the front cluster in the trans is likely not too happy. So with that said, I decided to pull out the clutch, bell and trans to put in something stronger.
The current trans is a Level 3 Tick T56 coupled to a McLeod SFI bellhousing and a McLeod Street Twin clutch. After a bunch of phone calls and emails, it came down to a T56 Magnum or a T56 with the 9310 gearset. I decided to go with the latter however this trans is only offered in the LS case config. To make this all work, I had to now change my bellhousing and go with a different clutch. Again, all more or less LS based stuff. Quicktime sells a bolt in bell to connect a LS trans to a SBC block. As for the clutch, I'm going with a Monster LT1-S triple disc to retain good driving characteristics and tons of holding power.
The trans is current out of the car as well as the bell and clutch. I'm actively selling the clutch and bellhousing. As for the trans, I am planning to take that apart to see what needs a refresh as I'm confident the hard parts are likely fine. If someone has a strong interest in the trans and a reasonable offer, I could let that go early. Feel free to PM me if any of the parts I've pulled.
On to some pics. The clutch has some love but I'd be willing to bet someone can bring this to a machine shop to have the metal surfaces refinished or send it to McLeod for a rebuild.
The procharged LTx has been running well so I figured why not try a roll racing event. I still prefer the drag strip but the longer track and higher speeds interested me. The event was not well managed but certainly brought all the instagram "hot" cars. On my last run, I went for a 3-4 shift, .the car went sideways but thankfully I kept it together. I didn't miss the shift so I'm not quite sure what happened. In any event, the trans still went into all the gears but felt noticeably notchy. The clutch hydraulics were gone through completely a few weeks prior including a new tick master and exedy slave. Driving around town with some spirited pulls felt fine so again, not sure what changed. The clutch and hydraulics checked out just fine so I am thinking the front cluster in the trans is likely not too happy. So with that said, I decided to pull out the clutch, bell and trans to put in something stronger.
The current trans is a Level 3 Tick T56 coupled to a McLeod SFI bellhousing and a McLeod Street Twin clutch. After a bunch of phone calls and emails, it came down to a T56 Magnum or a T56 with the 9310 gearset. I decided to go with the latter however this trans is only offered in the LS case config. To make this all work, I had to now change my bellhousing and go with a different clutch. Again, all more or less LS based stuff. Quicktime sells a bolt in bell to connect a LS trans to a SBC block. As for the clutch, I'm going with a Monster LT1-S triple disc to retain good driving characteristics and tons of holding power.
The trans is current out of the car as well as the bell and clutch. I'm actively selling the clutch and bellhousing. As for the trans, I am planning to take that apart to see what needs a refresh as I'm confident the hard parts are likely fine. If someone has a strong interest in the trans and a reasonable offer, I could let that go early. Feel free to PM me if any of the parts I've pulled.
On to some pics. The clutch has some love but I'd be willing to bet someone can bring this to a machine shop to have the metal surfaces refinished or send it to McLeod for a rebuild.
Last edited by Blackbirdws6; 08-28-2018 at 01:36 PM.
06-13-2018, 08:29 AM
#3
I will keep the thread updated as this progresses.
06-13-2018, 10:19 AM
#4
Interested in progress. I have an idea to swap to LS clutch/hydraulics/bellhousing for my 95.
No one offers a small diameter race clutch for LT1's AFAIK and I already have the lightest setup I could find off the shelf (Fidanza aluminum FW and LUK clutch which is already aluminum PP).
No one offers a small diameter race clutch for LT1's AFAIK and I already have the lightest setup I could find off the shelf (Fidanza aluminum FW and LUK clutch which is already aluminum PP).
06-13-2018, 07:58 PM
#6
The clutch drove perfectly prior to it being pulled. No chatter, funny engagement and definitely held the power. Just the trans appears to be giving me heartburn but I chalk it up to my oddball setup. The car is heavy so my impression is although the trans is rated for 750rwtq, that may be with the consideration of a lighter vehicle. Plus the rating is likely of the hard parts which likely haven't broken since the trans does go into all gears. It seems like a synchro related issue that a refresh would resolve.
I will keep the thread updated as this progresses.
I will keep the thread updated as this progresses.
Even being a co nvertible it can't be pushing past 3750 I'd think. I'm a slim 3200 and trying to get it under 3100 wet. You didn't upgrade the synchro's when you had it rebuilt? Or you did and it just can't handle the power?
06-13-2018, 08:21 PM
#7
Man how heavy is the car? LOL You make it sound like it's 2 ton brick. Even being a co nvertible it can't be pushing past 3750 I'd think. I'm a slim 3200 and trying to get it under 3100 wet. You didn't upgrade the synchro's when you had it rebuilt? Or you did and it just can't handle the power?
Even being a co nvertible it can't be pushing past 3750 I'd think. I'm a slim 3200 and trying to get it under 3100 wet. You didn't upgrade the synchro's when you had it rebuilt? Or you did and it just can't handle the power?Everything was upgraded that could have been in the trans but the big item is the modded viper mainshaft with a 30 spline output.
Trending Topics
08-28-2018, 12:33 PM
#14
The Bird is all buttoned up and I got her home last week.
Due to time constraints and perhaps lack of talent to pull it off, I opted to have 2nd Gen Engineering (Larry) perform the install. Larry was meticulous with his work while providing great communication along the way. The communication goes a long was as I'm all about knowing what's going on, when it will happen and setting of expectations. Unlike other shop experiences, I honestly didn't sit and wonder, "Hey, what's going on with my car???". I knew Larry was plugging away and coddled me with texts/emails with images while letting me know what was worked on and the next hurdle. Simply put, if you need fbody work done give him a call.
Like most things aftermarket, the time it takes to install is never quite as planned unless it's been done before. I'm likely one of only a few idiots spending the money and opting to use a LS-style T56 with an old LTx engine combo. But aren't all T56's pretty similar? Sure but with this combo, everything is pushed back about 1.5".
This required all the following modifications:
- Shorten driveshaft
- Modifications to trans tunnel opening (trimming rear section and adding metal up front)
- Cross member modification/fabrication since holes wouldn't line up with under-body threads
- Revised trans pump fitting setup to fit within the tunnel
- New hard-line for clutch slave with quick disconnect
- Clearance Quicktime bellhousing a little to clear starter housing
- Modify motor plate to clear starter housing and oil pan flange
- Run new slave bleed line
- New driveshaft slip yoke - Also bought new 1350 joints as well
Larry indicated nothing was particularly hard but it's all the little details that will make it work properly.
On to some pics.
Well crap....
Dat hardline - Larry did this as he wasn't liking how the soft line was getting a bit sideloaded. The remote bleeder was run nicely and "snaps" into the plastic slave reservoir. Almost like it belongs there.
That's better - Larry was also kind enough to plan for the future if I decide to embrace the LSx life. There are bolt holes in the crossmember so if things move forward, it will still work. The metal plate added to the shifter area uses the original bolt holes so again, if things change and move forward down the road, I'm halfway there...
Motorplate - Post clearance (Seems familiar ehh Brandon and Adam??)
Old pilot bearing didn't want to cooperate - Larry indicated after two pullers and saw blades, he resorted to a carbide burr. Before I got concerned, he provided me with pictures of the clean crank bore after pilot bearing removal.
Clutch time!
Trans pump wiring had seen some heat but just the outside loom was crispy - Larry heat wrapped everything and tucked it out of the way.
New fitting for trans pump (added a 90)
Due to time constraints and perhaps lack of talent to pull it off, I opted to have 2nd Gen Engineering (Larry) perform the install. Larry was meticulous with his work while providing great communication along the way. The communication goes a long was as I'm all about knowing what's going on, when it will happen and setting of expectations. Unlike other shop experiences, I honestly didn't sit and wonder, "Hey, what's going on with my car???". I knew Larry was plugging away and coddled me with texts/emails with images while letting me know what was worked on and the next hurdle. Simply put, if you need fbody work done give him a call.
Like most things aftermarket, the time it takes to install is never quite as planned unless it's been done before. I'm likely one of only a few idiots spending the money and opting to use a LS-style T56 with an old LTx engine combo. But aren't all T56's pretty similar? Sure but with this combo, everything is pushed back about 1.5".
This required all the following modifications:
- Shorten driveshaft
- Modifications to trans tunnel opening (trimming rear section and adding metal up front)
- Cross member modification/fabrication since holes wouldn't line up with under-body threads
- Revised trans pump fitting setup to fit within the tunnel
- New hard-line for clutch slave with quick disconnect
- Clearance Quicktime bellhousing a little to clear starter housing
- Modify motor plate to clear starter housing and oil pan flange
- Run new slave bleed line
- New driveshaft slip yoke - Also bought new 1350 joints as well
Larry indicated nothing was particularly hard but it's all the little details that will make it work properly.
On to some pics.
Well crap....
Dat hardline - Larry did this as he wasn't liking how the soft line was getting a bit sideloaded. The remote bleeder was run nicely and "snaps" into the plastic slave reservoir. Almost like it belongs there.
That's better - Larry was also kind enough to plan for the future if I decide to embrace the LSx life. There are bolt holes in the crossmember so if things move forward, it will still work. The metal plate added to the shifter area uses the original bolt holes so again, if things change and move forward down the road, I'm halfway there...
Motorplate - Post clearance (Seems familiar ehh Brandon and Adam??)
Old pilot bearing didn't want to cooperate - Larry indicated after two pullers and saw blades, he resorted to a carbide burr. Before I got concerned, he provided me with pictures of the clean crank bore after pilot bearing removal.
Clutch time!
Trans pump wiring had seen some heat but just the outside loom was crispy - Larry heat wrapped everything and tucked it out of the way.
New fitting for trans pump (added a 90)
08-28-2018, 12:33 PM
#15
Now the trans
I took the car for a ride with Larry before taking delivery and everything drove nicely. The clutch pedal is actually a little lighter than my old McLeod Street Twin which was already pretty good for its power handling capabilities. The clutch engagement is a bit lower but very progressive. It will take a little getting used to as I've been driving high engagement clutches most of my life. The trans shifted very smoothly and it definitely likes RPM. My old trans was typically notchy but I learned to think that was kind of normal after a while. It was oddly refreshing to have a trans that would just act "normal". It was exciting but uneventful if that makes any sense. The shorter 5th gear ratio was also nice to keep some rpm at non-highway speed but not feeling like you are lugging anything.
I couldn't give Larry a proper ride as any WOT boost would light up the all season 275 tires. The CCWs with the R888s will go back on so she can hook up better on the street.
So that ends this chapter. I'm going to get her cleaned up, toss on the pretty wheels and after everything is confirmed to still cooperate after some miles, she will get her *** kicked at the track rental in the fall. I'm guessing I'm running out of excuses for this car not running a number eh??
Oh and yes, obligatory trailer queen shot.
I took the car for a ride with Larry before taking delivery and everything drove nicely. The clutch pedal is actually a little lighter than my old McLeod Street Twin which was already pretty good for its power handling capabilities. The clutch engagement is a bit lower but very progressive. It will take a little getting used to as I've been driving high engagement clutches most of my life. The trans shifted very smoothly and it definitely likes RPM. My old trans was typically notchy but I learned to think that was kind of normal after a while. It was oddly refreshing to have a trans that would just act "normal". It was exciting but uneventful if that makes any sense. The shorter 5th gear ratio was also nice to keep some rpm at non-highway speed but not feeling like you are lugging anything.
I couldn't give Larry a proper ride as any WOT boost would light up the all season 275 tires. The CCWs with the R888s will go back on so she can hook up better on the street.
So that ends this chapter. I'm going to get her cleaned up, toss on the pretty wheels and after everything is confirmed to still cooperate after some miles, she will get her *** kicked at the track rental in the fall. I'm guessing I'm running out of excuses for this car not running a number eh??
Oh and yes, obligatory trailer queen shot.
08-28-2018, 03:41 PM
#16
Nice man! Man that looks STOUT. I'm still not a fan of LS style slave etc, that's just me though. I detest them. LOL That looks like some serious coinage too. That red Z06/7, I like as well.
That rig a Duramax? Nice either way! I've got on 08 Denali 6.2. Duramax is my next truck down the road.
That red Z06/7, I like as well.That rig a Duramax? Nice either way! I've got on 08 Denali 6.2. Duramax is my next truck down the road.
08-28-2018, 03:51 PM
#17
Nice man! Man that looks STOUT. I'm still not a fan of LS style slave etc, that's just me though. I detest them. LOL That looks like some serious coinage too. That red Z06/7, I like as well.
That rig a Duramax? Nice either way! I've got on 08 Denali 6.2. Duramax is my next truck down the road.
That red Z06/7, I like as well.That rig a Duramax? Nice either way! I've got on 08 Denali 6.2. Duramax is my next truck down the road.
08-28-2018, 05:22 PM
#19
One very cool transplant.
I can only suggest split tube heat wrap on the hydraulic lines near the header to reduce heat exsposure to the clutch fluid. Maybe same thing for the pump line if it is near exhaust anywhere.
While my T56 transplant was not as involved as yours it had similar challenges, especially going to the McLeod Street Twin which uses a larger dia (13/16) MC which is also longer than the stock F-body unit which rsulted in some "fabrication" to get it to fit in my custom clutch pedal assembly.
Again very cool fabrication and modification to get this under the car.
pic of the heat wrap tube I used on my clutch line. It comes in various sizes. I got it at Summit
