blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Car - 1997 Z28
Trans - A4
Miles when bought - 68,200; current miles 75,8XX
Mods - Pacesetter LT's, Pacesetter 3' ORY, dump before axle, Lingenfelter Super Tube Cold Air Intake, SLP Airfoil, March Alt OD and Hub UD pulley, removed AIR, TB bypass, 24X TorqHead ignition.

When I was completely bone stock / when I bought the car it has stock intake with K and N filter / Magnaflow cat back exhaust with a bad opti it put down 245 / 270 ish

After Pacesetter LT's and Y-Pipe / Pulleys it put down 270ish / 293ish

I haven't had it on the dyno since I've added the full CAI / Airfoil / removal of AIR / TB bypass and 24 X conversion (still breaking in some 373 gears).

I'm wondering if my numbers are low or are on par? I know the tuner said he couldn't tune my car any better but I literally put down 270/293 and tuning didn't really change the numbers a whole lot. I think the first pull was 265/289 then 268/290 and finally 270/293. However it is not even full exhaust, it just the long tubes with the ORY pipe and a custom made turndown that extends a little past the driver side door. No cats and no mufflers.

I hear all the talk about EWP but I've actually read for the street it's really not worth it as the mechanical pump will hardly ever fail or leave you stranded or worse. I actually just bought a new in box WP from a Chevy Dealer for $150 shipped, we installed it while the TorqHead kit is getting finished up.

What else can I add as far as bolt on's and all the free mods? I would assume the CAI would probably put me around what 280/300-310?

I just feel after I was on google numbers seem very low for a 1997 Z28 A4. I guess it doesn't really matter all that much as eventually I'm going to be putting a fully well built motor in it.

Fuhnortoner

25whp isnt bad for just exhaust. Pulleys dont really do anything.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

How many miles on the engine? Could be tired. Don't stock auto LT1s usually dyno around 240ish rwhp? I dunno, if it were me I'd rather depend on what 1/4mi track times say than a dyno. You're going to get all kinds of crazyass claims on dyno numbers from past history. If you went from the stock air box to a SuperTube you should see some sort of gain.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

No one ever won a dyno race.

My car makes lousy numbers and traps great. All depends on how stingy the dyno is and or, how many games the operator plays to boost your numbers. You could also have a slipping trans or converter, but the dyno guy should be able to let you know.

Tune it, get it driving nice, and race it. Trap speed is a solid indication of how well the car is performing.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Sounds about right to me, 25rwhp gain from just cheap long tube headers and tune.
CAI can add as much as 10rwhp
EWP can add a good 5rwhp "get the mezeire HD"
24x ignition system is proven to add a few hp.
1.6 roller rockers add a few hp.
This would get you around 280-285rw easy.

everything i have seen says on average a full bolt on auto will be in the 275-290 rwhp range and a manual will be around 290-300rw with some getting over 300rw. But like mentioned, trap speeds and E.Ts tell the true story.

PARMY

From everything I've researched, every thread and every dyno...you're putting down what you should be with those mods. You'll pick up more with the CAI and EWP...bit I would say you're numbers are normal.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

thanks guys!!

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=SS RRR;20064080] Don't stock auto LT1s usually dyno around 240ish rwhp?


^^^ Yup, when my Z was new, off the show room floor, it made 235 RWHP and I forgot the torque and that was with an auto.

BALLSS

OP

your #'s are typical. Real power gains will be had with Heads, cam, injectors (larger). The later not alone a gain but often needed with a larger cam and heads. Then a tune for the new H/C

Small gains with some of your mods you saw. The under drive pulleys and air foil are just ways to lighten your wallet.....

New valve springs and 1:6 RR would help your otherwise stock motor rev higher...and make a little more power

While dyno pulls assist in confirming the tune and motor are working well....run it at the track. MPH is a solid indicator of HP

MuhThugga

Numbers are just that: numbers.

You could dyno at one shop and drive to a different shop the very same day and get different readings. Hell, you could go back to the same shop the next day and get different numbers. Things like torque converters, gears, and tire height will also affect your numbers. There are cars that impress on the dyno but drive like crap, and there are cars that disappoint on the dyno but drive very well. I'm not saying you can't have both, but you should be less concerned about the number and concentrate more on how the car is actually performing. There are plenty of cars with big power numbers who lost to cars making much less power because the rest of their chassis was garbage.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

What kind of dyno was it? Mine put down 292whp/329wtq unrestricted a couple years ago. I restrict it to 260whp with a plate and check it annually, always with a dynojet. I've been to 2 local dynojets and the numbers were pretty much the same between them. I always find it odd when forum members dyno so much lower. I have a stock motor, stock manifolds, aftermarket mandrel bent 2.5" to 3" y pipe, 3" mandrel bent to an axle dump with a bullet, underdrive crank pulley, and cone filter on the intake. I did do a bit of a rebuild back in 2015 though, simple hone job, new rings, polished the crank and did new bearings.

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

DynoJet was the dyno, also mine is an A4 if that matters to you.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I saw that, like everyone else is saying you're where you should be. I just find it odd that my car makes so much more with less. You're one of a number of accounts of that. Maybe it being a 93 has something to do with it?