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I went full forged rotating assembly with 4 bolt main. Did I need to, maybe not for a 400 rwhp NA motor but I was drag racing regularly when I did my 383. You can use the stock windage tray with a 383, just use a 1/8" washer to stand it off from the long stud bols
Having been there and done that in a 9C1 Caprice (130K miles or so until the car was rear-ended).....2-bolt mains would be fine.
KW
Agreed. Unless some sort of silly cylinder pressure is being used, especially nitrous, you should be good to go. I would toss around the idea of forged mains for possible future decisions, but it ain't cheap. Not one bit.
I love it. Absolutely love it. Needs a few odds and ends to be perfect, the engine and any non factory modifications are really just the whipped cream and cherry on top.
Have had my 96 Impala SS since new. IMHO a lot of car for $25,700 new back then. Of course, I could not leave it alone so have done several mods, all performance, vs bling.
I am fortunate enough to have 2 other hobby cars. 67 Camaro and 72 C10 which IMHO are nice rides. I get more nods on the Impala at cruise ins than either of the other two. To me the T56 swap is the biggest reason...let alone it runs 12.87 @ 106. It idles at 80mph with luxury seating and AC. I absolutely love driving it.
I went full forged rotating assembly with 4 bolt main. Did I need to, maybe not for a 400 rwhp NA motor but I was drag racing regularly when I did my 383. You can use the stock windage tray with a 383, just use a 1/8" washer to stand it off from the long stud bols
My L31 383 did not require any extra clearence there but I have 6" H-beams in it. Along with an extended tray to match the 5qt pan.
There are several guys running them behind 6.5Ls in OBS trucks. This guy also has one behind his L31. It has been running and driving for a while in an OBS crew cab 4x4 1500.
is he using the stock PCM and just added a TCM to it?
He purchased the translator box from Zero Gravity from what I read.
I have already acquired a low milage 6L90E, new GM OEM 2016 6.0 Express van engine harness, and I will be repinning it to run mine on an E67. My intent is to start with a 2009 TBSS calibration so that I can retain my OE style cruise control switches and ABS. TBSS uses hard wired cruise control switches, hardwired speedo VSS output and has a 128K VSS signal for the ABS. I am probably going to bypass the PCM control of the AC clutch by wiring the AC request signal that comes off the high pressure switch on the back of the compressor to the positive control side of the existing ac clutch relay and wire the cycling switch signal that is a ground signal to the ground side of the clutch relay control circuit.
I have yet to see a perfectly swapped 6L into a GMT-800 truck yet. Different platform but just something to think about...
Missing functionality or what is going on with the ones you have seen?
This guy has one and I think the only thing not working is the Tap Up/Down shifting and Tow/Haul. Once I get mine in and driving, I will probably add the Can Bus modules for the Tap Shift/Tow Haul as well as I am going to get the Reverse Light one off the bat. My 1997 Van chassis is much easier than a GMT800 though, because it is almost all discretely wired with less being connected via serial data and no CAN bus in it.
These are on early GMT-800 without CANBUS. The ones with CANBUS are actually easier to do.
I cannot find the thread over on PT.net right now but yes lack of functionality. The couple that I can remember is that the PRNDL does not work right and the reverse lights don't work. The reverse lights not working I have seen more than once.
I know someone from there in Weatherford about to do this swap possibly this weekend and I may meander on over to see if I can't figure out the kinks.
These are on early GMT-800 without CANBUS. The ones with CANBUS are actually easier to do.
I cannot find the thread over on PT.net right now but yes lack of functionality. The couple that I can remember is that the PRNDL does not work right and the reverse lights don't work. The reverse lights not working I have seen more than once.
I know someone from there in Weatherford about to do this swap possibly this weekend and I may meander on over to see if I can't figure out the kinks.
I still have some parts left to gather on mine, probably 4-6 months off before having everything acquired. I need a 58X reluctor among other things. Then of course I have to find time to tear into the engine, swap the transmission and wire the thing. It is not the cheapest or easiest swap, I get that.
Just re-reading that comment, why do you need a 58x reluctor? I think I must have missed the connection between the TCM-2650 and what you are doing. @Fast355
Excerpt from my crank thread:
Leaning much more heavily towards a 396 now. Have the crank picked out (posted above) and am looking between two rods. One is their "Lite" version, most likely will just stick with the normal version as it comes out cheaper anyway. P/N: 2-350-6000-2100-S Should be a good setup.
Now I must go back to main caps and studs because I am slightly confused. Going to 4 bolt straight or splayed mains is only in the center three correct? Secondly, what part number are the studs for this application? I saw that some state "Stock windage tray" I do know I will need to clearance it but I am not sure by how much. If I am clearancing then I would assume that there is a longer stud to hold the windage tray on? Not sure... The part I am looking at currently is ARP 234-5610. These should clear in the oil pan though, don't think I am worried about that.
03-27-2023, 12:12 AM
