Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Was hoping to hear pros/cons of...

I fired up my new 383 today. No oil pressure.

I pulled the oil filter. No 'fresh' oil other than what I pre-filled. So it looks like somehow I screwed up the oil pump driveshaft install (as the pickup tube is welded to the pump).

So, looks like Tuesday, I get to:

-Pull the intake manifold and take that approach (ugg, I HATE scraping that friggin' RTV, I know how to make that friggin' intake *stick*, so it's a PITA to remove and clean)

or

-Drop the oil pan and fight that mess (K-member, motor mounts, etc)

I've got a lift and all the tools. That's not an issue.

Which way would you go? Tackle from above or below? I dropped the K-member for the engine swap, so my alignment won't be impacted (needs an alignment anyway).

Either way, it sucks.

hondo

iTrader: (2)

perform the exploratory surgery from the top, doctor

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

Below, seems to be easy and if you know your intake is on, then its probly on.

93BlackZ

since you have a lift, perform the surgery from the bottom

O Holy P

iTrader: (9)

What oil pump do you have? Stock pan? How long did you let it run with 0psi? Sometimes it may take up to 10 or 15 sec for it to prime and start making pressure. Did you use an oil pump primer to check for pressure before putting the cam gear in? If not, you can unplug the coil and crank it over till the pressure reads (battery charger optional).


P

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys.

P, stock oil pan, and I'm pretty sure I went with the Melling regular pump (not HV or HP). I don't remember what I ordered.

I did crank it for about 20 seconds (injector fuses pulled). That was about all the battery I had. No pressure. I then put the injector fuses in and fired the motor for about 10 seconds. Started right up. No pressure. Pulled fuses, cranked again. Stuck fuses back in, again, no pressure. Stopped after that. Total crank time was probably a minute.

Then I thought well maybe I installed the oil filter adapter wrong on the block (couldn't remember details). So I pulled the filter to check. No oil gusher there at all. No 'new' oil other than what I'd prefilled in the filter. That tells me the pump isn't doing its job at all.

This evening I think I'm going to try back-filling through the oil pressure sender hole with my mityvac (in reverse), and then crank with the injector fuses pulled (battery's been on the charger all night ). If I still have no change after that, I think I'm going to do the intake. 'cuz if I drop the pan, it's a commitment (my 98Z parks under the 94 while the 94 is on the lift; pulling the intake, I can get pissed off, throw all the crap in a box, lift up the car, re-park the 98, and walk away). If I drop the pan, with the cherry picker supporting the motor and the k-member dropped, I'm committed to completing it.

I haven't tried in years... Can you fit a small drill under the cowl to use with a drill driven oil pump primer? I don't remember. If I can't, I may run out at lunch and get a right angle adapter. I've got an air drill that's pretty small. No way will my DeWalt 1/2" drill fit under there.

O Holy P

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like it's just not getting a prime. To make it easier on the battery, pull the plugs, the motor will spin a little quicker too. If you have a charger with an *engine start* mode on it, use that or a jump box if you've got one.

As for the intake being pulled and trying it that way, you'll need a long flat-head type attachment. I had a local guy/friend here in FL weld an old screw driver without a handle to an old broken 1/4" extension and he used it with an air ratchet. May have to get creative. Good luck with it.


P

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Huh, good thought on the ratchet, P. I do have a Moroso oil pump primer doohicky, but I see where the screwdriver/socket extension would work fine too.

Thinking about my idea with the reverse prime via the oil pressure sending unit, that may not work. The AC Delco filters I have are anti-drainback... so my oil will get as far as the filter and then stop. Maybe I'll just pull the filter, shove a mityvac tube up in the block, and start squirtin' oil up in there. Prime the pump that way instead.

I could swear I stuck that distributor drive on there right. And it seated flush with the block, I do know that. It took me a few tries to hit it. Hopefully it's just the prime... I did put a little assembly lube in the pump (with the pickup tube off) to make it do suction. It did have suction when I put it together...

ToxicTA

Just finished my 383 a few weeks ago and was able to prime the system before I put the intake on with the motor on the stand. I was able to get oil pressure to the area that the oil sending unit screws into with a large tipped screw driver a prefilled oil filter and about 10-20 turns. I also threw away the factory oil pump drive and went with melling drive one pc(eliminates the plastic piece or sleeve).

slagger

iTrader: (1)

That was one of my biggest fears.(no oil pressure)
the way i primed mine was thru the oil sending uint, i got a air cylinder and filled it with oil then hook it up then i put air pressure from my compressure on the other side of the air cylinder so it would push the oil out into the motor, I did about a quart of oil like that.
when i fired up my motor my daughter was sitting in the driver side so i don't know how long it took to read on my gauge. but I can say when i was making sure everything was working ok i thought the temp Gauge was the oil pressure gauge and it scared me alot I keep looking and it wasn't moving up..... LOL it took my a min to fig it out that i was looking at the wrong gauge....
plus what i did on my build is lots of picture so at nite when i think i forgot to mount something or if i for got to I look at my pictures...
good luck and try priming if that don't work then I would prob do from under.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Let's just say I win the "don't let that guy build my motor" award for this week.

Looks like I left the shaft that goes between the oil pump and the cam drive gear... out.

Oops.

I pulled the top of the motor and saw that.

Now I have to drop the bottom out and stick the drive and plastic ring in.

slagger

iTrader: (1)

i don't remember can't you put that from the top?
get the melling shaft so you won't need that plastic peace.

hondo

iTrader: (2)

you can put it in from the top....sbc's dont have the lock ring, just leave it out

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

I don't feel comfortable leaving the ring out. AutoZone has the melling shaft with the metal ring for $6. I'm gonna go pick one up (called, they're open and it's in stock). My luck, I wouldn't get it on there right and I'd break the plastic drive gear by warbling the shaft.

There's no way the shaft with ring can be put in from above. The hole through the block is too narrow.

Gonna hang the motor from my strut tower brace, and drop the K-member to get the pan out. Hopefully can get that completed today before fireworks tonight.

Thanks guys.

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Well, I must say, that was a complete pain in the ***.

But the shaft is in.

Time to put the intake back on... sick of working on this car.

slagger

iTrader: (1)

Time to put the intake back on... sick of working on this car. [/QUOTE]

I say the same thing but I always find my self wanting to work on it...

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Put the intake on. Got 'er running today. ~35 psi pressure at hot idle. Nice. She loped nicely. Need to put my SLP 2OTL back on... the stock Z28 exhaust really bottles it up.

I fubar'd my A4 shifter cable while removing the trans (oops), so I can't drive the car until I get a new cable. Oh well.