LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

i should have my new engine next week and i wanted to run some numbers by yall to see what you think.

brand new lt1 block, 383 stroker

LT1 BLOCK:

* CLEARANCED FOR THE LONGER STROKE
* BORED +.030
* CAM BEARINGS AND FREEZE PLUGS INSTALLED
* LINE HONED

ASSEMBLED WITH THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

* SPEED PRO SKIRT COATED HYPEREUTECTIC PISTONS - ADD $225 FOR SPEED PRO FORGED (went ahead and bought the pro forged pistons)
* INTERNAL BALANCED 3.75 STROKE LT1 Eagle "ESP" Crankshaft
* Premium plasma moly file fit ring set
* EAGLE "SIR" Forged I-Beam Connecting Rods
* FEL PRO GASKETS
* Clevite 77 Rod and Main Bearings
* Durabond Cam Bearings
* Pioneer Brass Expansion Plugs
* COMP CAMS HIGH PERFORMANCE ROLLER LIFTERS
* COMP CAMS HARDENED PUSHRODS
* CAT ALUMINUM FULL-ROLLER ROCKER ARMS
* ARP HEAD STUDS
* CLOYES Timing Set
* GM water pump drive

cam is 230/236@.050 .510/.520 and 544/555 with 1.6rockers (daily driver) im pretty sure its a 112

LT1 HEADS (YOUR CHOICE OF ALUMINUM OR CAST IRON..) HERE IS A LIST OF WORK DONE TO THE HEADS: (i got aluminum)

* CLEANED
* PORTED/POLISHED AND MATCHED TO THE INTAKE
* VALVE SEATS CUT THREE ANGLES
* VALVES RECONDITIONED - INTAKE VALVE UNDERCUT FOR IMPROVED FLOW
* ISKY .600 LIFT VALVE SPRINGS

(the heads flow 270 on the intake and 175 on the exhaust, The intake is 175cc in size and the exhaust is 73cc. The combustion chambers are 59cc.)

LT1 INTAKE

* CLEANED
* PORTED FOR A DUAL 58MM THROTTLE BODY
* GASKET MATCHED TO THE HEADS

ls1 driveshaft
k&n fipk
58mm tb
42lb injectors
new transmission & aluminum racing radiator
old poo poo rear end with 3.42s


all this stuff is bought and paid for and i have received all but the engine which should be here next week, what do yall think?

emerica4601

iTrader: (5)

impressive. very impressive

good luck with it

streetwarrior96

you should switch that I-beams for H-Beams, go with the forged pistons

MrCadillac

he already said he opted the 225 for forged pistons.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

Its all in the works now, the bottom end is built. do you think the I-beams will be alright, i mean they are forged. thats about all i plan on doing to the motor for now, maybe a small shot on n2o on down the road, maybe. and yeah i definately got the forged pistons. i forgot to add that the compression is 11:1 and the block/intake manifold/valve covers are custom painted to match my car. the guy also threw in the lt1 corvette fuel rail covers with the letters also custom painted. and what i thought was pretty cool was he threw in the forged pistons and a dual friction clutch for $500.

IllusionalTA

iTrader: (9)

Good luck w/ your new motor.. Let us know how it does when it get's tuned and ready to run..

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

thanks
ill post pics, and numbers when they become available, might be a while before i take it to any tracks. dont want to run too hard too quick plus im on the stock rear (for now). im hoping the people that are installing the engine will let me come down and clean out the engine compartment while the motor is out.

streetwarrior96

good luck bro

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

thanks, everyone has been so helpful and willing to share knowledge to even the dumb questions ive had on this forum, all you guys helped me make informed decisions about this project when i first started talking about rebuilding my engine that i have now, its come along way to where i am now and i have a long way to go. but i have this lt1/lt4 forum to thank and i want yall to know i appreciate you.
aaron

LS1 Eddie

iTrader: (2)

Looks good. I know someone locally who has a similar setup and it goes like hell. He has 3:73 gears though. Gear it up!!

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

CAT rockers is scary I know folks who have had serious problems, I used a set for a few hundred miles because they were 1.65 SA and I was after a personal record before completely changing a combo. After handling them and a set of ProForms I would pick the ProForms ever time and have put over 45K on a set of those myself.

I call BS on the heads I seriously doubt with just 5cc worth of material removal anyone is getting that kind of flow increase. I also doubt the 59CC chamber since stock is roughly 54cc for the LT1 aluminums.

I also question the "new block" claim.

I wish you luck but at the same time brace yourself for a mediocre engine, it will feel a whole lot better than stock but the average AI or LE heads/cam stock shortblock car will likely walk all over you.
Power is in the topend moreso than the bottom, MUCH moreso.

Cchris1109

iTrader: (11)

not a complete race setup but nice

im sure people still want power for daily drivers caprice, and we arent as lucky as you are to have mucho power and daily drive it haha

1redta

I thought stock cc on LT1 heads is 58 LT4 is 54?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If you pay attention even though I have some VERY nice parts my car is built on a budget. If you have $3K to spend you are FAR better off putting it in the topend than the bottom that is just fact. If you blow the stock shortblock and need a rapair then I can see going a stroker and topping it with stockish heads "for now" till you can feed the stoker properly. Builds that emphisis cubes over headwork otherwise are a clear sign of a lack of understanding on how these things work and are a recipe for disappointment. Seen a handful of guys on the b-body board do the same thing and they endup in denial chasing "problems" that have to be causing the poor track times and dyno numbers when the whole problem is they didn't understand the importance of flow over cubes or the difference between gross dyno HP and installed in a vehicle HP.

I was there at one point myself, if I had the knowledge I do now 6 years ago I would easily have a 10 second car for what I have spent. The last few years I have gotten a lot for my money it was before that I spent a lot and got little. I hope to help others avoid my mistakes.

A friend is struggling with an aftermarket ported head stroker in a lighter car, I was honest with him as far as my opinion of his parts choice, sofar his car is not performing as well as he would like, friday he was half a second behind me. I genuinely hope that I can find a problem in the pcm or such and fixing that makes his car faster than mine, at the same time though I just think the performance is what it is and he spent much more than I to endup going slower. He may even read this.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

well if it is bs then its not coming from me, thats exactly what i was told. and its not a race car, its just a daily driver. when i bought the engine i just assumed the block was used and reconditioned and everything and then out of nowhere he tells me he had used a brand new lt1 block.

if the CAT rockers end up not working thats an easy fix. the engine is well over 450 hp. but its not going to be the fastest car in the world, so im happy with what i got. im looking at a used set of AFR heads for $500 a friend of mine has.

and im sure what i think is fast as hell is probably just mediocre to you so its all good. ill post up some dyno #s so you can hate on those when i get them.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

and there is no way i could use my stock short block, cmon i have 187,000 miles on my car if i wanted any power at all it wasn't coming from that one unless it was completely overhauled.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I know one guy who had a CAT rocker chip and the chip tookout a bearing and the bottomend.
AFRs are not as good as folks think a small ported set is what is on my friend's stroker. Ported stock castings are GREAT if done by a good shop.

Far as over 450gross fwhp that is not as much as you think it is. One reputable LT1 builder offers an over 500fwhp package known to only deliver 370-390 at the wheels he is not lying about the numbers either people just fail to understand the impact installing it in a car has and it is more than just drivetrain losses, it is accessories, full intake and exhaust.

I am not trying to "hate on" your setup atall just being honest. If you want to view my comments as "hating on" it you are not going to learn much from your hobby. If and as you learn you will better understand what I have said.

When you say dyno numbers I hope you mean chassis dyno, I will go out on a limb and say it makes less than 360rwhp, if I am wrong I will apoligize on this forum.

97WS6NY

hmm, I am not sure what to say here but I have to agree with caprice, those heads are going to be the limiting factor. there is no way they flow that much with that little of work done to them, hate to have to say it. other than that, should be straight, just might want to consider having those heads re-done at a later date. Hope that they are the earlier aluminum heads, because the 97's came with 762? castings that aren't optimal for porting.

LT1MAN

iTrader: (6)

well like i said, i bought it because im not an engine builder and didn't want to spend a ton of money going here and there doing this and that and i wanted a warranty on the whole engine. i didn't have the luxury of just picking out the absolute best parts from the best people. the heads are what they are and its a brand new engine so i have a while. i hear what your saying tho and i do recognize your knowledge on the subject and appreciate your criticism. and of course i mean chassis dyno.

and if something chips off and breaks in my engine the labor and shipping are paid for by the company to send it back and fix it.

let me ask you this, my car has intake, 54mm tb, gutted cat, jet chip, and flowmaster now and it put 286rwhp 331rwtq down and could have done 300rwhp if it werent for the chipped plug, so how much do you think its making at the flywheel without all the accessories and everything just raw engine, how much hp to make those #s?
thanks

MrCadillac

I know of a bunch of guys juicing bolt on motors at that milage, with great results. 190k on an LT1 is not as much as it seams. how many miles are on your engine "caprice"? i forget. my cadillac had 160k on it, and i wasn't concerned about it not performing. my dad works for our county sherriff, and routinely drives the "back up" squad cars, which are 3-4 96 caprices. one has 220k, one has 200k, and the "low milage" one has 190k, There might be one more, I forget, but it too would be at or near 200k. All of them still haul ***, and will easy burn'em from a stop, even at 200k. The caprice I just bought has 180k on it, and after a few autorx's, and seafoaming the rings, I plan on porting the heads, and spraying it. I'm not real concerned. If something happens, it happens. But I'm douting it will(knock on wood, right?). but no big deal if it does, Put the caddy motor in.

I concur with the bs flag.