moserman

iTrader: (7)

which is better reccomended for racing applications? mobil 1 synthetic weight oil or valvoline vr1 racing oil? ive heard a fair share of both opinions and im curious to see what you guys think.

Bowtie Boy

redline synthetic or royal purple

burnzilla

iTrader: (3)

I recommend a synthetic oil. Don't let anyone tell you synthetic oil is thinner, 10W30 SAE is exactly the same weight and thickness as any synthetic 10W30. They both must pass the same tests, one is not thicker or thinner than the other. Anyone who tells you different is full of ****.

I run Mobil 1.
Its damn expensive, but I change it every 3000 miles, and my engine still purrs as strong as the day I got it.

ss97dml

iTrader: (1)

amsoil is the only 1 that's not petroleum based.

Chris 96 WS6

iTrader: (1)

How is amsoil not petroleum based? Would like more info about that...

EightSparks

iTrader: (3)

If you do a lot of driving, I would go with a blend. Remember, once you go full synthetic, that's all you have to run from that point on. It's great because it doesn't break down as easy as conventional oil, but it costs about 2-3 times as much per quart. Usually, it's better if you start breaking an engine with synthetic after it's break-in period, that's how you get the most out of it, but if you start it at say 130,000 miles, you're blowing your money. You can run the cheapest crap in it, but as long as you change your oil evey 3,000 miles, you're doing your engine the biggest favor. I'd also recommend a high quality oil filter (with a high-micron filter rate and a check valve)- K&N, Mobil 1 EP, Purolator PureOne, Fram ToughGuard, etc. The best filtration is from Mobil 1 and K&N, but K&N and ToughGuard are based on the same design, which has multiple layers of filtration (large to small), which filters your oil very well, but they also get clogged the fastest, but if you change them every 3,000 miles, you don't have to worry about that. Personally, I'd go with PureOne or Mobil 1.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

He's right. Amsoil (unless noted on the bottle) is a group 4 synthetic which means it's derived from natural gas. Redline is a group 5 which is ester based. However, Mobil 1 is also a group 4 oil. Amsoil and Mobil 1 are the only 2 American group 4's that I know of.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Royal Purple is only a group 3 which is petroleum based. The basestocks are highly refined petroleum.

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

Some of that is true. Some is not. I have never seen a synthetic oil that was not compatible with conventionals. "Once you go synthetic you can never go back" is untrue. Running the cheapest crap with regular change intervals is not the best advice. I would say running a quality conventional oil and changing it at 3,000 miles is a better idea. You can buy Accel oil for a $1 at Wal-Mart but it's not for later model engines. Some oils are recycled and I personally wouldn't put recycled oil in my engine (be sure to read on the bottle). Synthetics do not break down at the rate of conventionals and are ideally used under extended drain intervals. I would not hesitate to run regular Mobil 1 to the 10,000 mile mark. However, only regular used oil analysis can determine a good interval for your engine. You're only wasting your money on synthetics if you change it every 3,000 miles! I have done some reading in some good places (Bobistheoilguy.com) and it is said that the most wear occurs in your engine after the 1,000 miles after an oil change. That being said, an extended drain interval with synthetic is the best routine in my mind.

streetwarrior96

Mobile 1 15W 40 for my 383

dhdenney

iTrader: (53)

You mean 15w50. That's what I am using in mine. I will probably start using the Amsoil 5w40 in both mine since the Jetta REQUIRES it.

streetwarrior96

oops didnt see that... typo

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

I run four quarts of Mobil 1 0-30 in my race LT1s. For heads-up runs I use 0-10 Royal Purple. I turn my motors pretty hard in the quarter and have never had any oil related issues.

Daren

buffman

iTrader: (9)

0w30? Mobil 1 only makes 0w40 and based on a few of my Used Oil Anaylsis is not a very good oil. A lot of myths and uncertainty can be figured out by reading www.bobistheoilguy.com forums. M1 5w30 and 10w30 are not ideal oils for an LT1. While they may be a 30wt oil they are a thinner 30wt and tend to shear down into a 20wt oil after some miles.

M1 is group 4, along with amsoil, and the german made castrol syntec ow30

Captainofiron

iTrader: (1)

It really depends on what I am doing and the season, but I either run Royal Purple 10W30, love that stuff. or I run Mobil 1 15W50 when I race or during the summer.

Personally I would choose Royal Purple, back when I was the Parts manager at a Pepboys I had to take a product education course when we started to carry Royal Purple. And no it wasnt sponsored by Royal Purple. and what I learned really sold me on the product, so I have it in my engine and tranny.

burnzilla

iTrader: (3)

"Don't let anyone tell you synthetic oil is thinner, 10W30 SAE is exactly the same weight and thickness as any synthetic 10W30. They both must pass the same tests, one is not thicker or thinner than the other. Anyone who tells you different is full of ****."

Mobil 1 10W30 is great oil for a healthy LT1.

sdm1234

iTrader: (8)

and why not? what would be ideal then?

Hawk365

My firehawk says to run Mobil 1 Full synthetic 5w-30 so thats what iv been running in it since iv got it and i havent had any oil related problems.

UnitZ28

GMHigh Tech said they broke an engine in with the delo 15w40 dielse oil b/c of it's properties .02

Honda Hunter

iTrader: (8)

Why go with 15w 40?