cam installation
 

how hard is it to install a cam kit?

easy.

read up and you be the judge if you think this is something you can accomplish or not

http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html
http://shbox.com/ci/cam_install.html

yes that shbox.com best info ever im actually gonna do it myself in my camaro just print out the pages and read them, then go for it..

Pretty Simple..the Springs take the longest.

how long would you say it would take to do everything. from beginning to end.

2 days. Its pretty straight foward just remember you MUST! drop down the oil pan to remove the timing cover and if you dont and you still try to put the cover back on, youll end up tearing the pan gasket and youll need to buy a new one for like $40, TRUST ME! lol. So remove everything you can before the timing cover, drop the pan THEN take off the timing cover and your all good to go.

Give yourself 2 good days, 1 to take everything off and take a breather and clear your head cause you will get frusterated and the 2nd to put it all back toghter.

i would say 6-8 hours minimum and max 1.5-2 days

When someone comes asking a question like this I always feel it best to tell them plan on 2 full days and maybe even more. Better to plan for lots of time and get done early and have extra time to enjoy the new mod than it is to stay up till 3am to get the car back together so you can drive tio work the next day.

Agree'd.

You average person who has to ask how hard it is to cam a car, is most likely not familiar with the small block chevy (or engines in general), and will need more time to take it apart and get it back together correctly.

So give yourself some time. I spent 24 hours taking my turbo kit off, fixing a head gasket, and putting it back together again. I wasn't working like I was getting paid or anything, but worked about as diligently as your average person (or teenager even... lol) i suppose.

Plan for the worst! Hope for the best. :D

6-8 hours for a cam swap? Yeah, id like to see that one. Tune up maybe. 2 full days minimum.

Don't forget having all the special tools needed to do the job. TQ wrenches, hub puller, fuel line disconnect tool, and a few others I can't remember off hand. Still it's a fairly easy job to do. I always had problems with tearing the waterpump drive seal on the timing cover during install until a buddy told me about SEALGLYDE from Napa. Have fun and enjoy the results.

The WP seal is a teflon seal and should be installed dry. upon startup the seal is supposed to be able to put down a layer of teflon on the shaft.

I didn't drop my pan. I got it all back together and no leaks but I think I got lucky. It was a PITA to do it this way but it was possible.

I took a full week off work to do my cam. Since I had the time I took my time (cleaning parts, misc. odds/ends etc.) and got it done in 3.5 days.

My first time on an LT1, knuckle busting but not hard I say 40 hours to do a good comprehensive job. I cleaned up all the parts, TB, IAS, EGR, Intake Manifold, engine grease, replaced 13 year old vacuum lines, water pump, valve seals, Opti cap & rotor, spark plug cables, timing chain, fuel filter and a bad coolant lever sensor that had been disconnected for a year, inspected everything etc. I have air conditioning tools (vac pump & gauges) so I removed the condenser to make more room and prevent damaging it. Dropping/reinstalling the front of the oil pan was time consuming and a pain to get at the bolts, but it made the front seal installation easier. As was said previously the spring change takes time, the KD tools 3271 valve compressor worked great getting to the # 7 & 8. And rather than remove newly installed plugs and use compressed air I used the crank at 12-3-6-9 o'clock procedure to remove the valve springs. The valves stems will drop slightly before they hit the piston, but it worked out fine. This was my first LT1 cam change so I had a couple unplanned trips to parts shop, I cracked the oil sending unit removing the intake, the fuel canister purge plastic vacuum line to the sol cracked when I touched it and I messed up the first water pump drive seal trying to install the front cover without dropping the oil pan. I used the SHBOX writeup plus my Hayes manual, no surprises. After completion hit the key a few times to fill and pressurize the fuel rails, it kicked right over. It required a tune to get the stock 550 D/650 P/N idle increased to 800/850 and take advantage of the new hardware.

like they said above make sure u have extra time and have everything u need first