Fireburd94

Okay so a few days ago I'm driving down the road and she just turns off while I'm driving after about 10-15 minutes in and she started right up but turned off four times in the next five minutes I make it to work it's sits for 6 hours starts right up take it home. overtime it progressively is not starting at all anymore I was able to drive it today for about 5 minutes and then she died i don't know where else to go with this I'm thinking optispark but just making sure there's not a cheaper option I forgot first. the transmission is slowly leaking but not bad like I lost two quarts over the course of a year I doubt that's what's going to turn the car off but idk. fuel pump whirls, relay clicks, 43 psi at the rail, cranks over and i dont have cam or crank sensor ICM tested good coil new, plugs from maybe 20 k ago at most battery and alternator tested good a week or so ago no loss of power or backfire iether and no codes to work with check engine light is on i put in code reader and it turns off I usually use unleaded but as I usually do but when I use fuel injector cleaner I put in premium and i did that a few days before this all started it doesn't matter what RPM or speed it's at it's completely random as to when it shuts off sometimes I'll be on the highway sometimes I'll be residential please any advice you can offer would be great
update: got TPS still wont start

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

Ignition switch and/or VATS/ BCM issue? I wonder if your disappearing SES code might be a VATS or BCM code.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Definitely sounds like a coil or the dam part that's mounted on the front of the drivers head next to the coil, cannot think of the dam name! anyway, when that gets hot, the car will shut down and when cooled, will start up again.Auto can check it I believe.

Oh, I think its called the ignition control module. ICM

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Tried to delete my message, saw that you checked the ICM & Coil

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Your fuel pump may be overheating. Tape a pressure gauge to the windshield, drive around and see what pressure you have when it starts acting up.
Have you replaced the fuel pump prior? If so, did you remove the fuel pump bucket during replacement?

TA_Freak

If it's VATs, then you should have a "security" light on if it's like a `99 TA. Not sure about the LT1s. But ... if it is indeed VATS then you have a continuity issue with the lock cylinder connection to the resistor on the key. While it's running try jiggling the key (obviously not enough to clash the starter), if it cuts off, it's your VATs.

Fireburd94

jiggle the key didn't shut off I'll go pick up a pressure gauge previously I just borrowed a friend's and no I haven't done a fuel pump replacement yet but the previous owner did quite obvious by the homemade hatch inside the trunk to get to it I did just about two weeks ago replace the steering column but I reuse the same ignition cylinder out of the old one and from my understanding the only thing I would have to replace is the coil should I double back and go get the BCM from the car I got the steering column out of also the security light comes and goes but it has since long before I change the steering column I'll let you know the results on the pressure gauge test but none the less after about 2 minutes of being off it'll fire right back up again my buddy says I could be losing power to the starter while driving but I'm not exactly sure how one checks that

Fireburd94

Okay did your driving test stayed at a clean 30 psi at idle and about 38 moving the whole time ran it till it stalled I'm going to go ahead and bypass the Vats system just in case

Fireburd94

After all of this do you think it's the optispark cuz I'm over avoiding it now hell if I would have just bought that to begin with I would have spentless

TA_Freak

Whoa .... slow down! Take one thing at a time. You probably just ruled out the VATS, so next I'd be looking at fuel pressure; your pressure seems low. Again, I'm an LS1 guy and the pressure for those is 56-60 psi. If you're staying at 43 psi, I would start with a fuel filter. With that low a pressure, you could be right on that hairy edge where it will run but not consistently. If that doesn't do it, sound's like you have a trap door (which I have too) which makes it a 30 minute job.

Fireburd94

Fuel filters already been done before I got my PSI rating but okay I'll hop on that fuel pump then and get back to you guys I'm going to pick up an optispark while I'm there just complete the closes that way I have it because I'm pretty much down to optispark, computer, or fuel pump but I doubt computer

Gojira94

iTrader: (4)

I saw that but I glossed over the 94 model year part. Had 96 on the brain. I'm going senile LOL

Fireburd94

Fuel pump done still stalling I'm going to start pulling off the optispark but just in case it's something else any suggestions left

Fireburd94

Replace the Opti everything works great thank you for all your help guys