Help - New LS7 clutch will NOT disengage
#1
Staging Lane
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Help - New LS7 clutch will NOT disengage
I installed the LS7 clutch kit and a new f-body OEM slave (Dorman CS360058 from Summit) on my '98 Formula. If car is stopped and engine is running I can't get the tranny in ANY gear even after driving it for 2 hours. Since the engagement point starts out near the floor, I had hoped the self adjusting mechanism would raise the engagement point so it would begin to completely disengage. It doesn't look like that is going to happen.
To get going I turn the engine off, put it in gear (2nd most of the time), and start the engine. The car starts moving forward while the pedal is still pressed against the floorboard.
Now that I look at more parts websites, I see that the GM slave # 89059282 is recommended for LS6 and LS7 clutches. Those of you who installed the LS7 clutch, did you buy this slave? I need to know soon, so I can order a new slave if necessary.
Thanks!
Danny
To get going I turn the engine off, put it in gear (2nd most of the time), and start the engine. The car starts moving forward while the pedal is still pressed against the floorboard.
Now that I look at more parts websites, I see that the GM slave # 89059282 is recommended for LS6 and LS7 clutches. Those of you who installed the LS7 clutch, did you buy this slave? I need to know soon, so I can order a new slave if necessary.
Thanks!
Danny
#3
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i bought it all as a kit from sdpc when i installed mine and i purchase the slave they sell p/n 18037524 you should pm jesse from sdpc and see what he would recommend... and the clutch engaging off the floor is appereantly normal after i'd say 100 miles my engagement point is starting to move up but from what you say it might help to ask
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^^^Same here, SDPC LS7 clutch kit w/ the slave. My clutch was on the floor for only a few miles or so. Within a day or two at most, it was engaging pretty much the same as the stock clutch and same to this day. Feels a little stiffer, but that's the only difference from the stocker feel.
#6
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Thanks Beezer
I'd simply look into Tick's adjustable master. I know it's probably more $$$ than you'd like to spend but it should fix your problem.
I'd simply look into Tick's adjustable master. I know it's probably more $$$ than you'd like to spend but it should fix your problem.
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#10
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I ordered the LS7 clutch kit from Jesse at SDPC. I already had a new slave which I thought would be fine so we didn't talk about slave cylinders. I wish we had. I am going to call him tomorrow, describe my problem and ask his advice. Thanks for the great suggestion!
Danny
Danny
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#12
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You haven't bled it? I would recommend bleeding it if you've done everything else and you're having trouble. You may have air in there. I think I remember asking about a slave and you had a new one so we moved on. If it's new and the throwout bearing if fine than I wouldn't necessarily worry about changing it yet.
-Jesse @ SDPC
-Jesse @ SDPC
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#13
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You haven't bled it? I would recommend bleeding it if you've done everything else and you're having trouble. You may have air in there. I think I remember asking about a slave and you had a new one so we moved on. If it's new and the throwout bearing if fine than I wouldn't necessarily worry about changing it yet.
-Jesse @ SDPC
-Jesse @ SDPC
After it was installed I did bleed it. The technique used was (1) slowly pressed the pedal to the floor, (2) open bleeder, (3) close bleeder, (4) pull pedal back up. About every 3rd time, I refilled the reservoir. We did this about 15 times. At first the fluid was very dark. After about 9 times, the fluid was clear. I did not put the bladder in the reservoir or put on the cap during the bleeding procedure.
As you might guess, I really do NOT want to remove the transmission again. I did it once when I thought the slave was bad. Then I did it again to install the LS7 clutch.
Also, I would rather not spend the $$$ to buy a Tick master even though it is probably worth the money.
Danny