Pressure Plate and Flywheel Bolts - Replace?
02-05-2009, 01:55 AM
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Pressure Plate and Flywheel Bolts - Replace? Do the Pressure Plate and Flywheel Bolts have to be replaced when replacing the clutch assembly and resurfacing flywheel? Should I use locktite when re-installing the bolts? I noticed the flywheel bolts appeared to have blue locktite from factory.
Thanks!
Thanks!
02-05-2009, 03:21 AM
#2
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They don't have to be replaced but it is cheap insurance and yes, use loctite on the bolts. Also very important - torque them down in three passes - 1/3 torque, 2/3 torque, full torque in a star pattern.
02-06-2009, 05:09 AM
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Thanks for the feedback. So should I use blue locktite or red? Factory locktite appears to be blue. I usually use blue locktite on aluminum bolts because it is easy on bolt threads. Clutch and Flywheel bolts have a 10.9 stamped on them, which means they are hardened steel (I think), so I guess the red locktite should be okay. I'll use the red unless I get some major disagreement. LOL... I answered my own question.
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02-06-2009, 08:50 AM
#8
Thanks for the feedback. So should I use blue locktite or red? Factory locktite appears to be blue. I usually use blue locktite on aluminum bolts because it is easy on bolt threads. Clutch and Flywheel bolts have a 10.9 stamped on them, which means they are hardened steel (I think), so I guess the red locktite should be okay. I'll use the red unless I get some major disagreement. LOL... I answered my own question.
I don't think they are torque to yield.
02-06-2009, 02:24 PM
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Well that is an interesting question and the basis for my question. Are the factory bolts Torque to Yield or Not? They appear to be the same material as the Head Bolts and Pulley Bolt which are Torque to Yield. I don't mind replacing the bolts. Cost is really not the issue. I just want to know if the factory bolts are Torque to Yield.
02-06-2009, 02:32 PM
#10
On my car the bolts are called torque to yeild bolts. After torqed to specs then you lossen them they are junk. Also use Loc-tite. I went to a bolt store and got different bolts for my pressure plate. the heads of the bolts are drilled to pass steel wire through them. It ties every bolt together., even if the Loc-tite breaks free the bolt would have to break a steel wire. It will never back out impossible. Some may say it is a bit over board but hell it works very well.
02-06-2009, 02:37 PM
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Darn, what a money making scheme! Loosen a bolt and throw it away? No wonder we're in an economic crisis! We seem to have lost common sense. Hey RsSean... How do you like your Spec 2 clutch. I changed my order from a Spec 2 to a Ram clutch because of all of the negative issues I've been reading about the Spec clutches.
Thanks!
Thanks!
02-06-2009, 02:49 PM
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so what happens if u dont use loctite and resuse the bolts that were on there previously (not sure if they were factory, since it was a centerforce clutch) but torque it down correctly?
02-06-2009, 05:47 PM
#13
I have installed several clutches in Corvette's and always reused the stock bolts. I just cleaned the threads and used blue loctite.
02-06-2009, 09:28 PM
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02-06-2009, 10:42 PM
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I'm gonna use the same bolts and blue locktite. I must say that I like RsSean's approach with the safety wiring. I've done quite a bit of motorcycle roadracing and we safety-wired everything. Hmmmmmmm, safety-wire... Good!
Thanks everyone!
Thanks everyone!
02-07-2009, 08:48 AM
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The ARP replacements for the FW and pressure plate are less than $30. Its just a smart thing to do when you know you'll be beating the hell out of your clutch.
02-07-2009, 12:56 PM
#19
That sounds like overkill, if you're that worried about the bolts backing out use red loctite. Almost all problems related to the clutch is installer error.
02-07-2009, 02:13 PM
#20
Use Red lock tite
not sure what year car we are talking about but if LT1 the PP bolts TQ is 22 ft lbs...not very much
FW are 74 ft lbs.
I have reused both PP & FW bolts on my car. they are "GM" bolts but I only have 5k mi on the T56 conversion so the bolts are not old.
if down the line 20+k miles I replace the clutch again I will put in a new ARP set. Typically FW & PP bolts are application specific...not "hardware" store replacements. I know FW bolt heads are much lower than a "normal" bolt so get either GM replacement or ARP
had quite a learning curve on clutches though.....
not sure what year car we are talking about but if LT1 the PP bolts TQ is 22 ft lbs...not very much
FW are 74 ft lbs.
I have reused both PP & FW bolts on my car. they are "GM" bolts but I only have 5k mi on the T56 conversion so the bolts are not old.
if down the line 20+k miles I replace the clutch again I will put in a new ARP set. Typically FW & PP bolts are application specific...not "hardware" store replacements. I know FW bolt heads are much lower than a "normal" bolt so get either GM replacement or ARP
had quite a learning curve on clutches though.....