cant get my clutch bleed any sugestions
05-07-2009, 08:39 AM
#21
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just take it down...but learn how it works, then youll understand. if i were close id give you a hand. but when you understand how the clutch works it just all makes sence...thats why i hate when ppl say spec is ****. they just require extra attention to the shimming
good luck any other questions feel free to pm
good luck any other questions feel free to pm
05-07-2009, 11:14 AM
#23
Ryan, I got your IM and I am happy to provide soe info. It sees that there are two likely causes of your issue. The first is relative to the shim as mentioned above. There is already a link to the post from Tick about measuring for the shim...follow these instructions and determine if you need the shim or not. Also, considering that it may in fact be a hydraulic issue, since you indicated that you had an inconsistent and soft pedal that got better with bleeding...it is possible that you have leaked fluid onto the disc which would lead to slippage as a result of contamination. You can check this with the trans out of the car as well...look for evidence of moisture in the bell and on the clutch assembly. Let me know what you find and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks!
05-07-2009, 11:16 AM
#24
I had a spec in my V6 with some bolt ons and it slipped. Called spec and they said no way is that clutch slipping. Tore it down set it to them with all the clearnce specs ad everything, could not figure out why it was slipping. Spec sent me a 2+ and it chatered its as$ off for the first 2000 miles after that is was ok.
Mise well spend the money and get you a Tick adjustable master a GM slave and a remote bleeder and do it right the first time. I learned my lesson.
Mise well spend the money and get you a Tick adjustable master a GM slave and a remote bleeder and do it right the first time. I learned my lesson.
05-07-2009, 03:05 PM
#26
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I also had a spec 2 it lasted 4000 miles on a stock WS6 it started slipping i took it out. went to spec office and had to buy a 3+ and then had to make a adjustable master . after taking the trans out 3 times to get it right . if there is nothing wrong with your stock master you can build a adjustable on from that there was a sticky about it on here it is very helpful
05-07-2009, 06:27 PM
#27
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^^^dunno man i did the mod too, and i still dont think it works...i think that that only allows the pedal to have adjustabilty. i mean it did no harm but it also did no good?
05-07-2009, 11:28 PM
#31
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WELL HERES THE RESULTS measurement A= 1" 7/8 & measurment B= 1"7/8 god damn am i the only one that has bad luck. now what that thread said nothing about if they were the same heres the thread for thoese who dont know
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
05-08-2009, 12:03 AM
#32
Sounds like it's time to remove ur shim 
No wonder you were at the verge of slippiin.
"If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure."
No wonder you were at the verge of slippiin.
"If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure."
05-08-2009, 12:14 AM
#33
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well after having a beer or two i reviewed the situation an took the bearing off of the slave and found a spacer in the in part of the slave with a outside diamiter of 1"3/4 and inside diameter of 1"3/8 took that out and now my B measurement is 1"29/32nds so thats with in the 1/32nd to 1/8th they were talking about i think. doest that sound like the extra spacer that gets forgoten about?
05-08-2009, 08:15 AM
#34
I mentioned this in a few other threads but I wanted to insure that your were aware of some inconsistencies that I have recently seen in the OE slave assembly. Two weeks ago I had a customer bring in an OE slave cylinder that was fitted, from the factory, with a black shim that was .050 taller than our shim (which bolts in behind the slave). So, if your OE slave had a shim fitted to it, other than the one we provide, then this could be what is responsible for your issue. Let me know what else you find and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks,
05-23-2009, 09:17 PM
#37
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i put in a new clutch again just wondering if i need to bleed my system a little more because my cluth kicks in as soon as i pull the pedal off the floor. i measured everything before i put it in and i had the 1/8" tollerance that was required for the install (for the shim or no shim. and i dont need the shim). i have a spec 3+ clutch
05-23-2009, 09:43 PM
#38
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I just put a tick speed bleeder on and my clutch feels better after it was bled, but it does grab alot closer to the floor now, wondering if I need to bleed some more as well....Might just order the tick master cylinder while I"m at it.
05-23-2009, 11:27 PM
#39
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ya im not sure but think i might need to bleed a little more cuz it was a bit hard going in to first and rev. i also noticed when i had it in gear and hammerd the throttle i didnt go anywhere. maybe i had tire spin (hopefully) the 315's were spinning cuz they were cold. im calling SPEC-01 on tuesday when he gets back to the office to see what he says since know one has replied to my other post about the clutch kicking in right away
Last edited by ryans01z28; 05-23-2009 at 11:34 PM.
05-24-2009, 12:46 AM
#40
Do you really believe bleeding the clutch(eliminating air from the system) will change the point at which the clutch "kicks in" or "grabs"(pressure plate clamps the friction disc to the flywheel)? You might google hydrualic clutch operation. Air in the system effects clamping not the point at which the clamping takes place.