I keep getting more air when I try to bleed my clutch.
 

I have recently have had trouble with my clutch pedal sticking to the floor. This would usually happen when I was at low speed and reverse where slipping of the clutch was required.

I tried bleeding and flushing the system and it helped a lot but eventually the problem came back. So I replaced the master cylinder with a newer one from an '02.

This worked great for about 30 miles. Then I was shifting into 4th gear and the clutch went straight to the floor with no resistance and without warning. I eventually I got it pumped up but then two shifts later it went straight to the floor again. Ever since then I haven't been able to get any pressure in it.

I tried to bleed the system but I keep getting air in the lines. Also, the resovior never went empty.

Anyone have any idea what this could be??? It's driving me crazy!

First unless you have a remote bleeder or hole in tunnel it is a two man job. You didn't say how you was doing it so I will tell you how I done mine and I never had any trouble.
Got my brother in the car and I go under, opened bleeder and had him push it in and hold, I closed bleeder and repeated. You may (I did) get fluid out from just opening bleeder. Good bit of air came out then without pushing pedal. I run about two resevoirs through mine. To make sure air was out and to flush system and get new fluid in also. after you bleed it have whoever pump on pedal and make sure bleeder isn't leaking or anything else. Hope this helps.

how are you bleeding the clutch? bleeder screw or mity vac?

I did it both ways. I also had someone help me. I tried for about 45 minutes between both methods and I got absolutly zero feeling back in the pedal. And like I said I got air in both the mighty vac and when I bled it traditionally. Even if I wasn't doing it right i should still be able to get the clutch to come of the floor by itself.

may have a bad master cyl. but it would seem you would have a leak around firewall or something to indicate it leaking or a hole in hose or fluid out of bellhousing on slave. has it been giving you problems long? did you just do a clutch job?

I just replaced a the master cylinder. And it worked great for a little while but went out very quickly.

So I worked on it a little more today. I took the line out to see if it had any pressure when it wasn't connected to the slave cylinder and I was able to get pressure but I would have to pump it several times. But it didn't seem quite right. I also found that the line had been resting against the header. Although I have searched and I can't find any leaks. And like I said the resovoir is staying full when I pump it.

If it is unplugged and the QD is not leaking you should not be able to get the pedal to the floor. Pedal should be rock hard. Press in the end of the QD and get some fluid through it and try it again. is it an adjustable master? May have melted the inside of the hose. maybe someone else will chime in and have an idea.

check for fluid in bell housing. if so bad slave cylinder.

No fluid in the bell housing. I think my best guess right now is it's something to do with the hose.

check the seals at quick disconnects. may be torn and sucking air.

let us know what you find.

So I still haven't had any luck. But I did notice a few things that might narrow it down.

1. I can only bleed the clutch when I first open the bleeder screw then push the pedal down. If I push the pedal down first then open the bleeder screw nothing comes out.

2. If I leave the resovior cap off and push down on the pedal fairly fast then fluid will shoot up from the resovior. (not a lot but I but I still don't remember it doing that with my old master cylinder)

If you ask me that sounds like a master cylinder problem. But then why would it be able to maintain pressure if the line is disconnected from the slave? Although it does take a few pumps and gravity bleeding it before it will stay off the floor.

Making sense yet?

No not making sense. Seems odd. I would replace the hose first and see. With it shooting back out of res it may be pinched or melted inside since it was laying against the header for a while. Cost less and if it doesn't work you can use the new hose on the new master.

does it have to seal around the firewall???

No just meaning the master could be leaking and he should see fluid somewhere if it was.

Since the car has a new Master...I think it would be more likely that this is slave related. If you are confident that you have gotten all the air out and the issue returns then you are bleeding air by somewhere. Perhaps you have an internal leak in the Slave. At this point it seems you have done all the basic stuff to insure that you aren't having another issue...so I suggest replacing the slave. At least then the parts are new.

Yep, at this point, unless you have a defective MC (a possibility) I would look at teh slave as the culprit, and or the line.

Just because you do not see fluid leaking around one of these parts, does NOT mean they are good. Obviously, you see fluid leaking, then that can help quickly diagnose a faulty part, sure. But again, a bad slave or MC does NOT mean you have to see fluid leaking, so keep that in mind as well.

It was a bad master cylinder. I just swapped it last night and everything is fine.

Thanks for all the help.

I am glad that you found your problem. Though it sucks that it was the master, since you just replaced it. At least now you know though!

Glad you finally got it going